Colin Lindsay

Thank goodness as I was just about to say: you've done it now! The inner wheel arch, from photos I've found on suppliers' websites, has a lip that sits flush with the rear strengthener. This to me says that it's flat in line with the inner panel. From this pic of an on-going restoration it looks like the outer arch is the same and just butts up against the other side of the inner wing. The bodywork experts will be along soon to advise as to what exactly you need to trim or keep but hopefully this gives you some idea of the layout and the replacement panels.

That's the front stop in our house, the back stop is the car behind. Why else do they call them 'bumpers'?

I hope you realise that everyone who takes part in the poll is ill-advised and doesn't realise what they're really polling about.

Oh God I can see where this is going...

Sad indeed, I was thinking of him just the other day and wondering how he was. I can't be there to see him off but I'll be thinking of him.

Plastikote is not quite the same... This is the closest I could find to the old Baseball boot cleaner that you applied through a circular sponge top... I still remember the smell of it. Is there a UK equivalent? https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Wholesale-Shoe-Cleaner-White-Shoe-White_50020367718.html

It's the correct profile alright, but the measurements mean nothing to me... I could tell you if it was in front of me!

This club is getting more and more like HM Gov. We're having polls about whether or not to have polls, or whether or not we can actually poll in polls, but haven't got to the stage of actually having a poll about anything important. It's a bit like trousers, they did away with fly buttons, now it's just swipe down to open and swipe up to close...

None of the workshop manuals or other reference books mention any direction of fitting, which would be important if any kind of bend was meant to be there, otherwise fitting it incorrectly is bound to have an adverse effect on handling. Anyone selling new items - Jigsaw Racing for one - show a completely flat bar.

Not on the GT6 anyway, and I doubt even for the USA market. By the time the last GT6 rolled off the line we were looking at the doomsday scenario of petrol running out!

The number plate system over here in Northern Ireland allows for four numbers in a row, so we can have sequences such as 1360 or 1200. I know a local member has 1360 on his Herald, though personally I never yet had a Herald on which I'd want to replace the original number with *** 1200. The original VRM is part of the car after sixty years or so.

Yes, same and with the same c-section chrome finisher that drives everyone up the walls when trying to fit it..

So: what way must it face, in order not to foul? I'll have this to do in the near future so need to know before.... you guessed it.

Mine arrived yesterday; took about a week. First impressions are that because of the silver front moulding they're not as solid as the all-black version, but it's closer in looks to the old Motorola version that i'm replacing in the Herald. Is yours still behaving?

Thanks Doug - I'll update the filing system in the brain now! I think some cars suit it, and other's don't (the black and white plates) - here's my 948 Coupe with yellow plates and I preferred them.

Yep it's normal. I photographed two when I replaced my incorrect GT6 rear spring - which is the faded one on the right from a late Spitfire - with a correct GT6 Mk3 version, on the left.

T-Cut is being sold in the original-type tin these days, not that horrible plastic container. Looks nice and retro.

HM Gov needs to change the regulation book then, according to their website it was updated in August 2019 and still claims the following: Leaflet INF104 on the Gov.UK website.

Avoid Hammerite! It will chip far too easily. Do you want it body colour, or maybe a neutral colour such as black? The top coat is the icing on the cake, it's the preparation and the undercoats that will make it last. A good quality primer, maybe over etch primer, and stonechip on any of the leading edges should leave it ready for colouring. If you can get a good anti-rust liquid - I use Jenolite or if your Hydrate 80 does the same job - get it inside the main rails through any of the holes for brake or fuel pipes etc and turn the chassis so that it runs over as many of the internal surfaces as you can get it over. That will initially kill the rust, then after painting fill it with Waxoyl or Dinitrol to keep the moisture off the metal. It'll last for years then.

Only on vehicles first registered before 1973. Anything registered after 1.1.73 MUST display white front and yellow rear plates with black letters, regardless of the fact that it may now be classed as historic. It's also a matter of personal choice for anything older than 1973; my Herald Coupe was 1962 and looked much better with more modern plates, and my Herald Estate despite being 1967 will also have coloured plates, as these were fitted when I got it and were optional before being made compulsory in 1973.

No it don't, it comes from pigs. Almost every country has a few of their own. Some of them even smoke bacon, but I always found it hard to light.

An excellent day's driving, started at the end of the M1 / A1 at Lisburn then to The South and a museum visit in Meath, then on to Carlingford in Louth, back across the dotted line to Newry, Warrenpoint and Kilkeel and finally Annalong for food and ice-cream in Newcastle. Must have been around 200 miles but a great day out.

Have a look at my TR7 restoration on the 'My Restoration' section and you'll have some idea of what happens when you buy a car sight unseen, going only by the vendor's description.

It all depends on how - and why - it's been done. Peel back door rubbers, or look behind trims, or under the carpet. If it's been simply a blow-over respray on the cheap, was it to hide defects? I can understand owners wanting a shiny red car instead of a more unusual brown colour but it needs to have been done properly and for the right reasons, or problems will soon work their way through it. An MOT only tells you it's roadworthy, not that it's worth anything and certainly not that it's been maintained correctly. You'll only know when you see it. The phrase 'in good condition for age' covers a lot of sins... back in 2015 I went to look at a car that the seller's description claimed: no scratches or dents anywhere on the car. It was a mass of marks, dents and scuffs and the power steering failed on the test drive. The seller first tried to tell me the marks would polish out, and then admitted if he'd listed them in the ad, no-one would have come near it... plus: it had just passed MOT two weeks before. It may turn out to be a good car, but keep your eyes open.

Going by this shot (Thanks Rimmers!) the arms are straight and the brackets angled, with no angled or offset mounts on the radius arms either.