PeteH

Had a long look, in my opinion they should not be too hard to fabricate. Getting the angles right before welding, could be the tricky bit? The ones I have look to nave been brazed originally. Pete

Granddaughter, has decided on a November wedding. So I rather suspect the offer of the 13/60. Might well be declined,! Pete

Don`t know if it`s of help?. But this is the end of the Visor in a 1971 13/60? Pete

Keeping the Grille clear of obstructions also helps. Badges/Spotlights etc in the air flow are of no help. While probably not possible on "our" cars shroud(s) directing air to the Rad and not allowing it to bye pass, ballanced with a need to reduce underbonnet temperature?. AND. a clean cooling system to start with. I`ve carried out full ACID cleans on huge marine engines, in order to remove limescale and even salt (seawater) contamination. Pete

We got a B-T "call guardian" set, didn`t expect too much of it. But it was only marginally more expensive than one without. It works exceptionally well, In fact sometimes too well!!. Took our Doctors Surgery a long(ish) while to get the "message". ie speak to the phone it will let you through. Same with some of the Hospital personel. One drawback still is the fact that Overseas Family callers cannot be put on the "permitted" listing, but still have to speak to the Phone to get through. However as we mostly speak to them via VOIP it`s not exactly a great issue. Pete

Yes, I have access to a set of Vitesse style alloy "bumpers". Which I must admit, do look more attractive. So maybe that is the option?. A fair bit of "originallty" is already gone, (Spitfire Engine for one) so some more won`t really make a lot of difference. I might dig them out of storage, and see if they will clean up. Pete

The "plumbing" too would be an "interesting" technical exercise?. How to arrange location of a Thermostat for one?. Pete

What Fastenings are used to secure the (I am assuming?) metal fittings that in turn secure the Bumpers to the valences then? I-e; Nuts/bolts, self tappers. Sadly, I can already see indications of Paint being affected by corrosion. Pete

I want to clean and Paint behind the Fitted rubber Bumper`s. Where I can see some corrosion (pre-emptive strike!) I believe they should just "flip off" i-e; just clipped over once the end caps are removed?. Anyone confirm?. I would hate to rip chunks out of the Valences. Pete

Their (stolen) Car complete with bullet holes. Can be seen at "Whiskey Petes" Casino, on I-15 (Primm?) En-route from Las Vegas to L-A. (More useless information) 🙄 Pete

My First thought too. The Tensile strength of even modern cast material is not high. In this particular case the Shape of the Disk will assist in resisting fracture. But I think, I too would be reluctant to use it even. Pete

Actually, The index is a Prefix, which indicates a 1987 Plate?, So late(ish) BL product, probably a "Longbridge" car?. Pete

Most original handbook pressures, certainly pre about 1965/70 will be for Crossply tyres. In the past it was considered prudent to up the pressure 2-3psi for Radials. Haynes BTW. For a Vittesse give Cp/R 21F and Cp24 R26 psi?. But still have 21/24 for both Cp and radial? On the GT6 Curious?. The 13/60 Handbook, gives 21F and 26(2up)28(4Up) psi. Pete

I had a young Junior Engineer on one ship, all the crew called "numb nut`s". The reason for the title is lost in time and age. Pete

Seen At the Weekend, At a small event in our Village?. Reg; No would appear to be in period? Pete

I havent actually Checked. But the Wheel nuts of my American R-V where not that big. And that was a BIG spanner job, around 1-1/2"AF, and a jack stand, and a 6ft(ish) length of Scaffold, Just to get the Bu**er`s undone. The wheel (nut) Torque, was 375lb/ft (officially). But there was 8 per wheel. Pete

I had reason to go out to the Garage just now, and out of curiosity I measured the 13/60 Engine sat in the cradle, 1-13/16", (<47mm) Such that I went back and double checked. That IS one dirty big Nut!!!. I don`t think I even have a socket that big in my 3/4" socket set. Pete

We Had a Local Gathering in aid of a Local Group. A few Pic`s Just 2 other Triumphs, though "plum" is hiding behind the Lincoln. Electric Mini!!!!!. No wonder it looks "distressed"! Not a Triumph Paint Listing?. Ex "Squadie! Art; Plum, is lurking behind the Lincoln, next to a rather nice Bentley. Just before the Rain Hit! The GT6 was nicely done, sounded great. (Camera Mans thumb!) Just Part of Bill`s Collection. Ex REME man. Couldn`t Identify the "kit" car, and the owner had gone walkabout.

You will likely find, historically, that the first wheel "studs" where indeed threaded both ends and screw`d into the axle fitting. Hence "stud" would be the correct term, The headed Splined variety came later as manufacturers wanted to save time, material and cut costs. Like many things in modern life (Hoover?) a name carries on in the generic sense. Counter boring the nut is done largely to avoid binding on the plain shoulder. Pete

The perceived wisdom was that the thread should exit the hut by a minimum of 1/12 threads when tightened to correct torque. It would appear from what the OP posted that nuts with closed ends are being used? ( blind nuts)? In which case the threads are bottoming out before the nut is tight? I would suggest that measure the original nut length and then assuming the nuts being used are of sufficient length shorten the studs? Always being cognniscent of the need to ensure there is a sufficient length to retain the wheel.. If there is a need to refit the alloys the safest option would be to use through nuts which would ensure full safe bolting in both circumstances. I have seen (may even have some) blind chromed nuts which incorporate a tapered washer, I think off a Vauxhall? Pete

I have one similar to Colin`s. Inherited from my Dad, so at a guess at least 100years Old!. Still have the "proper" taper fit blades which cut on the "push". One advantage is it will also take a hacksaw blade, and gets use occasionally in confined places where a power tool will not go. Designed originally for cutting wood/light boards etc;. light strokes and let the blade do the work. On metals I fit the hacksaw blade to cut on the "pull". Fine (24 teeth or more) blades show less tendancy to "jam", with or without a light lubricant. Pete

Interestingly, I`v often wondered if the "resin" that the window fitters use to repair stone chip`s, would work on a scratch?. If it would, should be OK on a side glass, even though ,technically, a bad scratch inside the screen wiper area, is an MOT fail? I believe?. Pete

Running out of idea`s here. Split foam pipe lagging on the rear edge and set it in the gutter, support the open lid on Timber from inside the boot? Beyond that???. Pete

I`m not sure of the Spit; fastening, But could you support the outer part of the Lid on timber or a rolled up carpet even across the wings and still get at the bolt?. With some rag/old mats? to protect the Paint?. Pete

Depends where your working?, I`ve dangled similar stuff, The Herald Bonnet in recent times, from the Garage rafters with rope or Ratchet straps before today until I could get it lined up?. More recent still , only last week, I had the Hood frame suspended from the roof whilst fiddling the bolts into place. Pete