PeteH

Very Tidy. A credit to you!. Pete

Dick, Got to give them credit, those Merchant Navy RFA boys know how to do a service call.👍 Did they wipe the bridge windows and check the oil as well?.😀 Pete

Does your Sainsbury, do Marine HFO?. Would need a Iong Bunker Pipe though?. I`ve Filled with "regular gas" at Walmart near Kissimee. Only 60 US Gallons though. Not 2000 "long" tons.🤣. Pete

Hindenburg?. R101?. Both Ghost ships?. And don`t you just love it when others rub it in. Bah Humbug, enough to drive you to drink!. Never mind, "is it over the Yard Arm", the Gunwale will do!. When Mine where Year 12, they had a bike and rode that to school!. Nasty daddy, wouldn`t drive them, all of 2-1/2miles. Pete

You got Sun?. Over here (East Coast) we have cloud, a North Wind straight from the Arctic, and Bl**dy cold for end of June @ 16C.😒 Pete

Looking at it? I do wonder if that is what has been done in the past, It is definitely rather "meaty", . Right off to the "shed" for a ferret about and see what I have?. Probably Best if not Reinforced though?. If Not. I`ll do as Colin suggested, and see what else I need potentially in the near future. I know I want some Window seals and runners etc; So A Biggish Order could be on the Cards. Canley are currently On Holiday until Early July. (G)rimmers are twice the price!. Pete

Comming back to Heaters and the valves. Any one know the size of the "O" ring seal (O/d-I/d and/or thickness dia/?) between the Valve and the Heater inlet?. It looks to be quite thick, shown as A147 on the (canley) part list. And 50 pence each, But with postage at around 3quid,? None of the ones in my "Little box of bits" are the right size. Best guess would be 1/2" (12,5mm id) and somewhere over 5mm thick? Whats left of the original has been quite substantial. Pete

With worn (potentially) Rockers. (assuming you have access to such). I find the use of a Magnetic base and Dial Gauge can produce an acceptable result?. More of a fiddle, that I admit, largely due to finding a place to "stick" tha base, but can improve accuracy. Pete

Can I ask where you went for that?. Like yourself, I have the 13/60 and it could be good to have more in depth information?. But the guys on here are always right on the ball if you get a problem. So cheers to them. Pete

Dan Lives outside of Gosford. To the North, but they are quite close to the "bush" as I understand it?. Never been, would love to go, if only to see the Great Granddaughter (3) for the first time. Pete

Seriously considering doing similar, Running a decent size of (black) cable along with the Loom when it goes back in, would not be the most major job. Tie all the various earths to it and teminate at the battery Neg; Terminal. Pete

Whilst I do not know, I suspect it not to be achievable as the door rail holding the Rain Sheet will then not pass through?. Pete

And hopefully. Learning to Identify the increased number of lethal species?. Out Grandson moved out of his in`law`s in town to the remote(er) suburbs, and lost one of his dogs to a snake bite. Pete

I don`t know if this link is any Help?. https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/pdf/2spd_dr3a2.pdf Pete

Interesting that. One of my experinces On Medium Speed Engines, (Pielstick) was a sudden increase in Exhaust Valve burn out, we seemed to be changing one every few day`s. we could keep it under control IF we reduced the exhaust temp; (speed) Which affected schedules! and was not popular!.. What we dicovered was that High Vanadium content in the MFO was the culprit. We stopped Bunkering in Venezuala (Cheaper) and Took Fuel in Miami instead. That solved the issue. Pete Pete

When the "kit of parts" (my 13/60) arrived the engine had aready been removed. So I have no previous experience to go by. A compression test shows 3 good one low(ish). So The head will eventually come off to see if/what is the cause. When the shell goes for Painting, I expect. However, The Mass of paperwork that came with the car, shows that the head was exchanged via the Club Shop for an Unleaded conversion, Circa June 1999. When the recorded milage was 102000 Miles aprox. according to the `98/`99 MOT`s, so I am not expecting to find VSR. "Lead" memory is likely to be affected by any major valve work I would have Thought?. The "theory" behind seat errosion was said some years ago to be a combination of high exhaust temp; and the pitting caused by micro welding during closing impact, which the lead was supposed to offset or prevent. And was part the cost driven reason why US cars from the 70`s onward used lower comprssion ratos`s. Meaning the Big US car Makers where not faced with the cost of fitting hardened seats and valves. With the ultra low prices of "Gas. "Efficency" was not at the top of US consumers priority. Pete

It may be related. Water turned to steam at superheated temperatures can do wierd things. It`s got to be experienced to see what damage can be caused in high pressure boilers by just not having the "correct" water/feed conditions. Pete

Well Paul, Looking at that Head I would concur that VSR is not apparent and the fact that a small amount of byepass after in excess of 50K? Miles is to be expected. I would not have any concern over the lack or not of lead. IF I had any concern I would speculate as to the apparent "impingement" on the head of the valve in No4?. Pete

I think they may well be right. There certainly does not appear to be a plethora of evidence to support the theory that lead (or substitute) IS necessary?. Exhaust port (Valve seat) temperatures are IMV going to be a factor in any case, so unless you habitually thrash it within an inch of it`s life?, It`s (again IMV) whilst not remote, highly unlikely. There is another factor, for many many years we where bombarded with the "message" that High Compression was the Holy Grail of performance and Lead was an essential element in Premium (and by definition more expensive) Fuels, Blah, Blah. So are we conditioned into thinking that the Engines of that period still must have lead?. Pete

I refuse to incriminate myself, But let`s just say my supplier back then was not in retail? and it came in un-branded containers marked resin and hardener? with long code numbers. Pete

You are of course quite right. The modern day "Scrappy" has effectivly become E-Bay. The "Elfs" (and safety) have put the mockers on all that sort of thing, every business has a shed load of (costly?) paperwork to do just to stay open and satisfy their insurer, who want all the T`s crossed and I`s dotted, so some "ambulance chaser" dosent cost them money. They assure me that is progress?. Pete

You noticed that as well did you!.😀. Pete

Page 109. Haynes, says exacty that. So it must be "do-able". My question would be does the slightly longer overall of the Overdrive adversly affect it?. Pete

I understand they have very expensive Jigs and Hydraulic rams Now-a-days in place of that?.🤣. Serious thought though, it was a well used method of making "bent" rally cars drivable, especially when the "recovery" couldn`t get at it in a forest stage. I even used it to get my sons Imp somewhere near straight after he "clipped" a roundabout near Farnborough. Some "new" suspension and steering bits and he drove it until the MOT guy failed it. (but not on the front suspension!). Did we really do stuff like that back in the dark ages?. Pete

By Coincidence. I came accross the Heater valve while looking for something else entirely. (7 boxes of "bits" came with my 13/60). Having an hour or 2 "spare" yesterday I took it apart and cleaned it up. It works and opens/closes now as it should. Trying to be Methodical, I got the crate with all the bits of Heater in, intially to put My now working valve with them. Then decided to clean the Matrix and pressure test it. I put it in the sink with a solution of Citric acid, for a couple of hours, washed it off and conected a hose to Mains pressure seemed to be good, and I now have a clean acceptabe and usable Matrix👍 Now all I would like is a 2 speed fan?. The one I have works OK and should clean up. but 2 speeds might be nice?. Or a decent Reostat controller?. Idea`s? Pete