PeteH

I`ve been following this thread, as I have the Herald to tackle. I bit the bullet and ordered a pair of Seals, along with shed load of other necessary door stuff, from Canley. I have offered the bare frames up to see how the look now the Doors are close to alignment. One question, does the top of the frame align with the top of the Windscreen?. As you can see in the picky. It appears to be at least 1/4" or more too low? Both sides. Pete

A lot is going to hang on the accuracy of the machine shop equipment and the skill of the operator, getting close tolerance. My take, looking at the Spec; table is that the Fitted Clearance tolerance is around 0.002"?, unless I am missreading.? With that in mind the Interferance fit to the Case, would need to be such that the design clearance is not reduced to the point where the "Oil wedge" cannot form and point contact takes place?. My "gut" suggests to me that 0.001" would be the optimum, enough, but not too much that the bearing "fit" would be "tight"?. Pete

Having no experience of the use of Triumph Camshaft shells, Are they White Metalled?, or Plain?. Pete

The one on the A166 at Garaby is grade 2 listed I am certain? Pete

Yes, I expect that even Acid dip/pasivating/drying the shell might not produce any better results. Probably the best one can hope for is that the rate of deterioration is vastly reduced by the reduced Oxidisation due to the exclusion of Oxygen/moisture as far as possible?. Pete

The Theory?. Is that if seam sealed the oxygen and moisture needed for the corrosion to continue is no longer available. On My current (13/60) where there was sign of corrosion starting it was dosed with "converter", cleaned up and dried and re-sealed. To be fair there isn`t much else one can do practically. Pete

Hi I think I used the Word Almost?. I certainly would not (personally) want such a rigid system. Especially after having been involved with aligning Marine Engines! and asociated Shafting!. Pete

Had a look at the Vitesse/GT6 manual, 2 things come to mind. 1) These symbols don`t appear until the GT6 Mk3 Diagramme, So maybe Haynes/BL had a change of Draughtsman, who used a different nonclemeture?, It does look to me as if it was done by a different "hand". 2) Could they be splices in the wiring rather than connectors?. Pete

I think I see what Pete is saying. Manufacturing tolerances (where) not as close as they can be to-day with modern (production) machinery, so IF a bore is at the limit of tolerance, it is better to match a piston at the limit rather than just throw in any piston and risk "piston slap" on a new engine?. Coding the bore(s) on the data plate is an indication to whoever next gets to work on the engine. Pete

Hi Surely, there is no need for slide on a small chassis, all the components are in the same plane?. Engine/Box and Axle are bolted to the chassis?. (with a few flexible mounts for good measure). You could (almost) do without ( prop shaft) U/J`s?. Pete

As Chris might say; Ces La Vie?. Pete

Just noticed the plate would appear To indicate Exchange (STANPART) Unit?. Has the car had a Factory replacement Engine?. Which I see John has picked up on?. Slightly off topic. What (if any) is the sgnificance of the HE suffix after an Engine number? As in GK1234HE.? Pete

LIke this afternoon?. I know I made a Clip from spring steel which stops the Wheel cylinders "creeping" out, while you cleanup and change Rear Brake pads. I want it!!, can I find it!!. NO bloody chance!!. So 30 min bending spring steel with pliers, trying and adjusting. NOW I have two (somewhere?). Pete

Draught Excluder foam trim behind the outer Rim?. Never tried it but could work?. Pete

I have this to do. Not as much as shown but sgnificant. I am contemplating timber with an overlay of stiff foam. Then pulling the whole down with a wide Spanstrap over the bonnet and under the chassis. Not as yet cast in stone but? Pete

Co incidently. I came across half a tube of "rocol" dedicated thread cutting compound, recently. Must have had it over 50 years!. When machine die dutting, we used the old liquid cutting fluid. Aprentice school we where "instructed" in the "Art" of cutting threads, and always told to half turn and back off. The Super would then check your efforts with magnifying glass!! Pete

I went to a High School, -------------it was at the top of a hill. Ok` I`ll get my coat. Pete

IF I remember correctly?, In 1966, when I was on the Hull Gothenborg Ferry Service. They constructed a new Bridge Near Gothenborg?. But could not open it for over a Year because all the road Junctions etc where set up for driving on the right?. Pete.

And then go stand in the corridor out side the Head`s Office. No exercise books in the trousers ether.!🙏

Pete, Wasn`t that the subject of a Courier Article moons ago?. Pete

Wasn`t that around the time Sweden went over to driving on the Right?.

Letting down their tent guys at camp (they had the next field) was good fun, the squeals could be heard for far!. The rollocking our "Leader" got from the Guide leader, had to be heard to be believed, Didn`t know "lady" guides knew such words. Pete

As "rule of thumb". it used to be said that a minimum of 20 to 30 min open road running was required to replace what the starting takes out. I guess your 50 would qualify unless it was "stop start" urban?. Doug is right, an Essential tool is a good multimeter. BFG`s advice is very sound as first steps to proving battery viability and charging. Just a thought?. Have you any aftermarket devices, Clock`s for example or a permanent feed to a radio/alarm or similar?. These are Ghost drains and can take down a Battery surprisingly quickly. If you get access to a Meter. a Standing (rested) battery with a full charge will show around 12.5+ish Volts. Measured accross the Pos/Neg terminals, No ingnition on. When running, If charging, the voltage can rise initially to 13 to even 15 Volts. I regularly "see" 14 on my Modern, and should fall back as the battery charge rises. Best of Luck. Pete

Pointy Up, Round down?. That I will have to remember. But first, I have to find in which (of 7) box`s the PO placed the Front overiders, that is so I can postion the valance and line the bonnet, adjust the height. And make sure it all now fits!, with some semblance of order and reasonable gaps with room for later fettling. After which I can take it all apart again for prepping, priming and hopefully Paint Sometime this winter if my Painter fella has a spare few (days?) or more like weeks!. I was a Cub, Scout and Among the first Queens Scouts. Back in the days when we wore those "Smokey Bear" Hats!. My mate was less than 4ft Tall, on Parade he looked like a mushroom!.

I did Try an alleged "octane booster" in the BMW (bike) for a while to see if it would improve anything. To be fair, despite the claim by BMW that the bike needed 90Ron or above. I could not detect any noticable change. Mostly just ran it on stock unleaded. Pete