PeteH

Hi I have used a short length of old Seat belt type material, wrapped around a short piece of Square section bar before today. If you use 1/2" sq section the sump plug spanner fits perfectly. That was on "Veedet", a "Marinised" BMC ("AorB"?) series engine fitted in a ship`s lifeboat. My current "go to" too is a Chain one which uses the 1/2" drive. I am fortunate to still have a full set of (very) large ring and O/E spanners from early carreer maintaining (very) large machines. My largest O/E is 4-1/2inches!, only 8" long and with a "flogging" End. All my adjustables are by BAHCO Pete

Hi Colin, any chance of a Photo closeup of the top of the Quarter light?. I am still trying to get an idea of just how high it should be in relation to the Screen?. I think mine (being set as high as it WILL go) is high enough. But I dont want to fix it, have it painted etc; only to have to undo my work when the fitted gap under the Hood proves to wide (or too tight).🙏. Pete

I’ve never really been afraid to use PTFE when needed on any sort of thread except where electrical continuity is necessary. Back in the day we used “boss” white and hemp on hot water and low pressure steam too.

Sign in Texas:- “Trespassers will be shot. Survivors will be shot again” Pete

Have you a lot of "Slack" in the top bearing, and much movement in the Steering Wheel?. Pete.

Plenty of choice there Chris, Cheers👍 Pete

The one in the photo is the good one!. The other one is missing the side light completely (rusted off). Hence the need for a replacement. I see that the Paddock offering is missing the division plate/separator?. What was the Canley one like?. Currently unavailable on their web site. Pete

Cheers Coilin. Did you get the paddock seals too?. They don`t quite look as thick/substantial as the Canley offering?

Hi Can I re-boot this topic?. I have one sidelight unit L584 which is not recoverable, for the 13/60. However all the othe parts are usable. abeit I do need 2 Rubber seals, which are available from Canley. The chrome scrubs up very well for example. According to what I can find online it`s a case of either you buy a full unit (around £30 each) or hope to pick up a decent S/H one?. Anyone ,know where one might get One?. I note the Units themselves are reversable so LH or RH is not material. Another little mystery?. looking at the Engine earlier, I note the Filter is a Canister type, Not the earlier paper. BUT screws direct to the block. The Club shop conversion looks as if it is at aright angle?. Picture> Light Unit:- Cheers Pete

I have to admit I fabricated my own, Crude, using stuff I had lying about. But very efective. Pete

Probably first registered at HULL (if that number is original?) Pretty looking motor, whatever!. Pete

I cannot see why this would not work on non roto hubs. Unless there is a significant dimensional difference?. But if that be the case surely the PCD would be different? The Hub shown looks identical to the 13/60? Pete

There are a lot of folk, putting them on their Motorhomes, with an eye on winter use in Europe. Aparently or allegedly they are "legal" under reg`s in some countries that require a "Snow Tyre" in certain conditions?. Fair number of people these days (or at least prior to Covid. did) take their Motorhomes to the Ski Resorts. Pete

I was looking at Falken Tyres as replacement for the mixed bag of 15 year old ones currently fitted to the 13/60. As and When it gets to that stage!. A couple of guys I correspond with on the Motorhome sites have them on their Camper Vans, and feed back so far is good?. Pete

On the Herald wiring diag; it`s shown as (W). which is White?. Item 30.

Unfortunately the "Rings" where fitted to the belts as bought, originally for a Dolomite, but never fitted as the Car was Stolen and trashed on the ranges near Aldershot!. Iv`e just re-purposed them, they where still in the makers wrappings. Pete Pete

Some nice "bling" there, Is the Spring Stainless too?. Pete

8mm might be a bit difficult to wangle into the diff. I think my suction tube is more 6mm. But it (the diff;) was drained anyway when I did the bearing seals before I reassembled it back to the chassis. which meant it was easy to drain and flush. Now all I have to remember is to check the level!, before I run it. Pete

God I havent seen that, since I did My First Class Certificate some 50 years ago!. (well not quite true!). May be time to get the Books out again?. We had a Lecturer who led us through "tribology". Which at the time some thought was the study of anchient peoples?. Pete

Hi MX-5 in my 13/60. Modified the seat rails, and the backs fold for rear seat access. Mine came curtesy of a friends son who is a serial MX-5 owner and specialist repairer. Pete

55Deg Whitworth Thread?. I`m guessing?. Possibly 5/16" or 3/8" Whitworth?. I still have a bunch of brass whit; nut and bolts kicking about and they look similar. I`ll have a look in the morning, currently all my starter kit is in the shed in one of the "crates". and no lighting. Pete

The Small chassis models mostly share the same general wiring so my Herald is:- (17) is the rear lights. With the Brake lights working, and the front pilot lights (16)? I suggest you concetrate on tracing the wiring looking for a break or loose/dicnected connector. On the Herald there is a bunch of connectors behind the panel adjacent the rear seat (pass side). I would maybe start there? Pete

Undersize socket on the pin, and an oversize socket on the other side, and my trusty Record vice. Once it moved It tapped out with a punch. I put it in the lathe and polished the pin with 200 emery. Pete

You are only enriching the mixture for rapid acceleration, (boost) once equilibrium is acheived the "normal" fuel ratio is correct(ed) for running. Pete

BKF, is used with good effect on tarnished "Stainless" steel too. Citric Acid Monohydrate, Sodium Carbonate and Oxalic Acid. It is good at removing "Rust" stains,left behind from using wire wool products, from stainless steel. It looks for all the world like the old fashioned "Vim" if anyone remembers that?. Pete