Peter Truman

Ha so easy! You could have posted earlier and saved me 3 of Pete's Motor Bike style kits having to wind their way across the world. Being honest connecting Pete's Motor Bike buzzer will be easier than accessing the indicator bulb wiring, as the kits can be connected directly into the bullet connectors as they come out of the steering column, very accessible, just replace the existing single female bullet sleeves with doubles.

Here's my DIY Trunnion Oiler the oil can has a brass pump so as to maximise delivery pressure thro the grease nipple.

I brought new ones from a guy in the UK they came with very small plastic rivet type things, which I replaced with small brass nuts and bolts. I'll try and find the suppliers name. I think he was trying to get the kit as a club shop item? I'll see if I have a record of the supplier, just remembered I brought two kits so must find the spare it'll have contact.

You need ahebrons 3D Printer and make them in two parts a top hat and annulus, washers both sides will ensure they stay in place and act as one whole!

On my Vitesse Mk2 the straightened ARB gave me an extra 3/16in increase on the drivers side. I think from memory the drivers side was down 3/4in, but changing the springs and GAZ shocks pulled 9/16in increase, before restoring the ARB.

For what it's worth I think the original springs were, o.75in long, consisting of 5 turns of 0.035 dia wire, with a coiled ID of 0.335in, and OD of 0.410in. I have 2 spares. My replacement springs are, 0.77in long, 6 turns of 0.031in dia wire, with an coiled ID of 0.301in and OD of 0.37in. They have to be reverse screwed/pushed onto the plastic pegs with a bit more force than the originals, but they stay there & don't fall off! I have a spares stock of 8. It's a Triumph you always need spares! The OD's are harder to measure hence a little variance to the ID plus 2* wire thickness.

Think I’ve got some of the springs left I’ll dig them out go down to his factory and see if he can give me their specification as a reference!

I brought similar small springs from our local spring making supplier here in Braeside Melbourne, I brought 20 cost was about $30, We just looked thro his stock for a similar dia's, length & stiffness, they work. I didn't like the depth of the hubcaps so I shortened them which provided a larger dia at the top so I could fit the standard Triumph World wheel embellishers.

What’s the advantage with Solid State Relays are they more reliable ie less likely to burn out? Able to take more transient loads.

Is it a Vitesse my Mk2 was the same I had it straightened with 1/4in the other way to allow for any subsequent set. It was done by a local spring repair co. Here in Melb put in his elect furnace and treated, it’s performing well. I think I read somewhere where the Triumph smaller dia ARB were susceptible to twist but the later larger dia as fitted to Spits were OK. Ironically the heavier Vitesse had the thinner ARB, it’s all in the suspension set up & reqd handling!

Well sighted Mr L

I use Penrite specifically specified for brass, too late to go into the garage to see the title

I do both the Vitesse and Spitfire twice a year with brass compatible EP oil, I have also soldered the steel washer at the bottom of the trunnions so as to stop the oil leaking out, My liquid grease query was just to overcome the potential leakage issue from the bottom, it was Just a thought!

Re Trunnions has anyone ever used Liquid Grease as an alternative to oil, and if so how does it perform?

On the Vitesse and presumably Herald to shorten the radii of the windscreen vent piping I used 32mm ID PVC Pressure Elbows, which has a pipe PD of 38mm and a socket OD of 41mm. The steel Internal Heater Distributor end of the PVC socket had to be internally opened out (now female end) to 38mm by using a Dremel drum sanding disc, whilst the flexible piping end had to be trimmed down to 38mm (now male end) for the piping to fit over, see photo of elbow below. Second photo is the elbows fitted to the standard Heater Distributor box, with neat piping connected. The flexible plastic piping I used was from a Jag and was a single long run where the heater outlet warmed the rear passengers, it is a sort of corrugated pipe with no wire coil making it easier to manoeuvre around obstacles. The third photo is the original Mk2 Vitesse internal cab heater deflector attached I believe to the drivers side to stop the hot air flow from the std heater distributor cooking the left foot instead it deflects the air flow over the footwell. The fitting is screwed onto the top RH bolt of the gearbox cover.

On the Vitesse heater outlet distributor I used plastic pipe fittings bends (non pressure I think) but I had to ream out the female socket a little so it would fit over the steel duct outlet, made the set up a lot tidier and sprayed it black so disguised.

unless someone's glued it on the grip does pull off, the daughters Mk2 Spit had the later grip as yours I pulled it off and replaced with the earlier thinner unit, I've also replaced the Vitesse's with a new old style grip just to look cleaner & new.

Don't know about you but trying to do those hard to get lamp body nuts on the inside of the bonnet is a pia, so I used steel Rivnuts riveted into the holes in the bonnet and suitably protected with copper grease to help the bolt earthing. Obviously I had knocked the captive bolts in the lamp base out and replaced them with small head shallow bolts thro the sq hole, the bolt head had to be shallow to let the glass cover seat onto the rubber lamp seal. Anything for an easy life!

A 1500 MG Midget engine I have has twin springs.

Brought the wife one several years ago, her Jeweler warned her against overdoing the cleaning as the U/S cleaner could weaken the claws that hold the expensive part (jewel/diamond) so it would be vunerable to falling out!! So now I have to pay the Jeweler every two years to inspect the collection and declare their SAFE! that present is like anything I buy the kids comes with a life time guarantee even consumables. I use it to clean my expanding watch strap amazing how much dirt us classic car owners accumulate when working and cleaning our cars!

LED's also don't work in the switch indicator light on the std Lucas 4 way Emergency Flasher kit, as fitted to our later Triumph Classics, the indicator bulb is negative feed and positive earth, Yep I had a Blondee moment spending ages changing bulbs back and fore before I woke up!

Yes I did that for my Mk2 Vitesse on a locally here in Aus purchased Smiths valve purchased from an Austin Healey rebuilder (Healey Factory). Now in = OFF and out = ON

Just ordered 3 kits, one for Sprint (too quiet) and another for my daughters very smart Mk2 Spit too, and a spare in case the Vitesse ever goes quiet, as recently I've had two flasher cans NBG, one electronic and the other it's replacement old bi-metallic, the latest fitment is an old stock replacement long can bi-metallic which funnily enough works with the LED fitted bulbs, which was why I went electronic in the first place, this last bi-metallic fitment is very audible too. Pete, I see the kit has your hated scotch locks, you wouldn't would you!! On the Vitesse and Spitfire I've fitted the std Lucas 4 way emergency flasher push/pull switch which simply needed the indicator separate RH/LH wiring cables coming out of the steering column single bullet connectors replaced with doubles so I have a spare bullet connection points for the kits wiring, sans scotch locks, lucky!

Thanks so a LED is NBG as it's polarity sensitive unlike a std bulb, I'll try it on the Sprint where the noise is very poor.

interesting what mode of operation is this electric pump that presumably the pump is at risk if mounted this way, jst want to know out of interest. Never thought of that when I fitted an electric pump as a pusher in the boot I could have avoided having to find unusual fittings/unions with the right threads to remove the mech pump but use its suction and delivery male screw in union pipework. I had to go to an old contractor who I used to use for Instrumentation & process control work & rummage thro his odd ball stock for the bits BUT I did also source a couple of old stock brass oil damped 3in pressure gauges Budenberg not Chinese sh*t with the range 0/100psi and a 0/10psi, handy for checking Overdrive operating pressure (mates making an electric motored jig for?) and fuel pump delivery pressure, plus chewed the fat for a couple of hours about old times and absent friends!