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Steaming when stopping


gt6j

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Just when I thought i had it all sorted another problem has raised its ugly head! 

Have my coolant levels topped up 50/50mix with bottle half full when cold but last 3 or 4 outings when I turn engine off after a run the bottle is empty and there's alot of steam. Water all over engine bay and bonnet soaked  :( looking like its coming initially from radiator cap when blows (changed this recently + the spring in it seems very strong and overflow pipe to bottle doesnt seem to get hot when steaming) The cap seal and rim of rad cap are ok and seal.

On the back on this she has developed a very loud hollow whirrr that goes up and down with with revs (not diff sound) since the overheating problem. Sounds as though it comes from front of engine making me think could this be water pump noises? I thought at first gearbox just got alot louder but does seem to sound as though from front end of engine. Hope isn't the engine itself..

Worried to run it now incase I do some proper damage, any thoughts on water pump would it be that loud? (Sort of loud hollow whir like the engines in a big can) and would rad cap spring be a prob? Was gt6 cap I replaced it with. Can't think of what else to check for it getting way too hot other than water pump. All new coolant hoses and no leaks anywhere on them. Oil just changed and right levels. .

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What I do with unlocated cooling system leaks is fill the system and then pressurise it while still cold with a foot pump connected to the radiator overflow pipe. Obviously you need to make up a suitable connection but then using the gauge on the foot pump you can take it up to normal system pressure. However dont go too much higher as the cap obviously wont lift so you could damage something.

Also be careful when releasing the pressure after the test as although not hot the coolant can still shoot out of the filler if the cap is removed rapidly...

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old trick is use a large wooden handled screwdriver    use it as alistening device with blade on engine parts and ear on handle

dont get it it the fan or you end up in A&E to extract the driver 

you will be amazed at what you hear  just move it around the diffent zones of the engine and listen 

do make sure the rad cap is of the correct depth to suit the depth of the rad filler  there are two sizes  a short one wont seal 

Pete

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You can do a similar thing to what Pete suggests using a piece of tubing. Stick one end in your ear and point the other at the bit of engine bay you want to listen to. It’s a good use of any non ethanol proof fuel hose you might have lying about!

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Another result, thanks again! water pump replaced and noise gone 👍 Only weird thing was old pump had only tiny bit of a play and not excessive noise. didn't seem enough to change it but noises definitely gone now new one in. Suppose any sound would travel round water ways and seem louder?? Haven't found a leak yet, keeping an eye will try footpump if find it drops again.

Manged to avoid fight with bits that move

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  • 3 months later...

Just to update this, over the weekend I found the corrugated coolant tube from top of radiator to thermostat housing had a hole in it down the seam.. I think this has been leaking for a while, causing the splattering of bits of water over engine bay.

Replaced it with a reinforced wall type which felt much firmer. 

The one that split just rubber in wall, it came from a full coolant pipe kit, and is only about 4 months old.  

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15 hours ago, NonMember said:

That concertina hose is a particularly fine example of the rubbish quality of modern rubber bits.

Yes, one blew on my 13/60 and it was only a few hours old. I went for old stock with the canvas reinforcement and it's much more reassuring in feel.

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The last step in knowing your cooling system is well sealed is seeing that the over flow pipe to the bottle is always full (obviously clear pipe is best and its end has to be submerged). This must be the case for it to work correctly and draw back coolant from the bottle as the system cools so the bottle level should also go up and down...

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I will keep an eye on that! Pretty certain I've got an airlock as heaters weren't getting hot but engine was. Happened last time I drained the coolant hopefully will rectify itself soon have got plenty in the expansion bottle

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Yes the heater is always the most difficult place to expel air but I find in my Vitesse just opening and closing the heater valve a few times when driving does the job. If there is air still in the system this will be compressed as the coolant heats up instead of opening the radiator cap to push liquid to the bottle... 

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  • 1 month later...

Still going through the cooling system among other bits, had the manifold off today but saw this corrosion on the manifold water inlet. Guessing this is fairly common? is there any tip to repair this rather than replace the manifold. It isn't leaking but corroding as per pic 

20230427_195858.jpg

20230427_195841.jpg

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Yes quite typical although yours is pretty bad. Now depends if what remains (cut the mangled tip off square) is strong enough to take the tighteness of a hose clip. If so clean and smooth the outside surface to continue using it while if not look at a repair, as Danny suggested, or replacement.

The manifold heating doesnt really do a lot except reduce the time you need choke on cold days and as our cars only tend to go out in good weather these days bypassing it completely wouldnt cause any problems either.... 

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I thought the 6 potters had a tapped water offtake nipple as shown above into the inlet manifold, not like the 4 potters which had a cast in steel tube, but looking at Thomason's book not sure about the Mk3, which might be like the Spits. The inlet manifold shown has a strengthened inlet so could be safely tapped to take the brass nipple. I've done this tapped brass nipple mod on a Spit Mk2 and 1500 inlet in place of the steel tube.

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