Non starting herald

[Pete Lewis]

most WSM give clues  also look at Burlen fuel systems  Parts for 3320 for Triumph Toledo - Burlen Ltd - Zenith Caburetters (zenithcarb.co.uk)

this is for dolly but the same basic CD150 

but a good site for pratical explaination and good pictures is Carburetors — Buckeye Triumphs

this is not for a CD150 but the basics are similar through the whole evolution  

on a CD150 little to go wrong that a look see wont identify  throttle spindle  is about all that wears 

if the spindle bores are worn it will need rebore ona jig ( some later have bushes fitted which makes this simpler )

if unnsure ask on here  or send it to in Leighton buzzard   no frills good value reconditoners ive used for years 

Contact – Carburetter Exchange

Pete

[Iain T]

I just fitted a reconditioned distributor and was fine ticking over in the garage but on first run out it hiccupped and nearly stalled. It ran then died after 20 seconds. Checked fuel flow, fine then thought it could be electrical. It was loose spades and dirty contacts on the coil. I cleaned up the contacts and crimped the spade so it is a tight fit and it's now fine🤞. 

Only take a couple of minutes to clean and worth trying? 

 

Iain 

[iana]

the reason i was asked is i was tinkering today so removed the top of the carb and there is no damper spring installed - this is as the herald parts manual but the damper spring is listed in other publications.

[JohnD]

An SU damper and spring is designed to slow the rise of the piston, so that the mixture is richened as the accelerator goes down.    This would thin the mixture on starting, when if a cold engine probably needs to be richened by the choke.

Deffo get a spring!

[Iain T]

Shouldn't the early 150s have the stronger of the two springs? Or is it the lighter? I think one is 95g the other 120g but burlen will supply the correct one. 

Iain 

[Peter Truman]

Not all Strom 150's have damper springs my Mk2 Vitesse has the heavy (thicker 80gm) upper diaphragm retaining plate which is an alternative to the spring, both should not be fitted together.

[chrishawley]

1 hour ago, iana said:

Is there a really basic guide to cleaning / service a stromberg cd150. I’m also thinking that’s shows all the components.

I wonder if either of the attached files might be helpful. Best of all is the Haynes guide to Strombergs but expect ot pay £30 - £40 on eBay for a clean copy.

One of the files should have an appendix giving a definitive statement about the presence, or not, of the spring.

Stromberg 150 CD.pdf Tuning_Stromberg_CD_Carburetters.pdf

[Pete Lewis]

the 1360 spec CD150 has heavy thicker  diaphragm  damper ring and NO spring

the 1600 was the same 

you dont need both or it will be very rich on the whole range of mixture 

Pete

[Gully]

If the car was running fine before this starting / running issue, then surely it smacks of a sudden change in state? Dirt / blockage, or a component failure, as opposed to set-up?

The two occasions I've had starting issues with my GT6 were both down to fuel pump issues after a short-ish period without use - first time the diaphragm had holed, the second time the pump valves were allowing fuel drain back which until I pressurised the tank the pump wouldn't pull through. 

Gully

[iana]

On 21/12/2022 at 10:47, Pete Lewis said:

the 1360 spec CD150 has heavy thicker  diaphragm  damper ring and NO spring

the 1600 was the same 

you dont need both or it will be very rich on the whole range of mixture 

Pete

Thanks Pete, that’s what I thought after looking at the parts manual but then on another site it showed the spring (and there’s not one fitted)

Gully the only thing that’s changed is where the car is parked, it’s normally level but is now on a slope - fuel pump is clean and it pumps fuel (don’t know if it’s weak but it’s working). After the initial attempts to start it I expected it to smell of petrol, but it didn’t so I’m thinking crud in the carb. Investigations are periodic due to the weather 

[Peter Truman]

I had great issues with stating my Vitesse when off the road for long periods the mech pump wouldn't prime even with a seperate petrol can next to the pump but below it ie neg suction, I rebuilt the pump and even brought a replacement mech pump, but I still had priming issues couldn't get fuel into the see through suction fuel filter. I eventually gave up and switched to an electric pump in the boot with a drowned positive suction feed from the bottom of the tank using the drain plug with a fuel pipe thro it (new NOS fuel tank)

I often wondered if the issue was the pumps top cover not sealing well ie the cork or rubber gasket drying out? its a very narrow rim the seal sits on.

So the routine now after a layup is turn pump off (dash switch) spin the engine using high torque starter then turn pump on to prime the system when the note of the pump changes pull the choke out and quick clean start no death rattle, no flooding or fluffed plugs, life's sweet, well I feel better and less frustrated!

[johny]

Im so surprised about mechanical pumps giving priming problems as Ive just rebuilt mine (not installed on car yet) and if I put my thumb over the inlet and operate the lever itll stay hanging from my thumb on suction alone👍

[Colin Lindsay]

11 hours ago, johny said:

Im so surprised about mechanical pumps giving priming problems as Ive just rebuilt mine (not installed on car yet) and if I put my thumb over the inlet and operate the lever itll stay hanging from my thumb on suction alone👍

Mine too, a few pumps of the lever can result in serious suction.

[Pete Lewis]

one of the most ocuring problems with herald/vitesse tanks /pumps not priming is the intake of air from the short hose off the top of the tank

suction tube  these are hidden from sight in the boot and are often loose or degraded   so the pump sucks air in but being well above the tank fuel level doesnt show signs of leakage  a full tank might give the occasional whiff in the boot 

but its a well worth a good look see 

Pete

[NonMember]

A mechanical pump in good order should have no problems. My GT6's one isn't great but the top cover screw is marginal so I think it isn't as perfectly air tight as it could be. Even then, it primes fine on the lever.

[johny]

I think it does make a difference how long you leave it as if the line from the tank has emptied it obviously will require more effort to pull fuel through....

[iana]

Finished for Xmas at lunch time and it was dry so I decided to try and start sort the car, tried what Jonny suggested, and it was solid so decided to take the carb off and have a look, it was filthy on the outside so guessing it’s not been off in a long time, the float was clagged in a grainy grit, the jet was blocked and there was a load of crud in the chamber so all cleaned out, waiting for another day to put it back together. I’ll probably be back with more questions as this is all new to me.

[johny]

Great, at least its really worth doing! Can also check float level when everythings clean👍

[Colin Lindsay]

On 23/12/2022 at 17:03, iana said:

. I’ll probably be back with more questions as this is all new to me.

A little less new than a while ago! Look out for a cheap used carb and refurbish it, it costs little but you find out how it all works, and have a spare too.

[Pete Lewis]

there you go a little diy works wonders and saves you spending £££s and letting the unknowing rip you off 

most of what you see and puzzle at is fairly self explanitory   its a good learning curve  with a result at the end 

so keep reading the clues and keep us upto date with your progress there is no such thing as a daft question

but it might generate some subject drift    

Pete

 

[Peter Truman]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

A little less new than a while ago! Look out for a cheap used carb and refurbish it, it costs little but you find out how it all works, and have a spare too.

In Colin's case I think he expanded "a spare carb theory" to complete Herald cars, eg spares!!

Colin I'll get my coat and leave! Have A Merry Christmas

[Colin Lindsay]

14 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

In Colin's case I think he expanded "a spare carb theory" to complete Herald cars, eg spares!!

Colin I'll get my coat and leave! Have A Merry Christmas

No, you're correct - always have one to drive and one to work on. Theory is that you learn from the work and leave the other one alone.

However I also have a few drawers full of various components - distributors, gauges, carbs etc that have been repaired to destruction or sometimes even repaired properly, and learned quite a bit just by dismantling and having a look.

[iana]

Well a disheartening day, put the carb back on and still didn’t start, so new dizzy cap and rotor arm fitted, points gap re checked all as per manual. Now stumped what to try next. Is it stale fuel or have I set the carb completely wrong?

[foshi]

when you say wont start is it trying to fire , if not good spark at points spark from points whilst turning the engine  over ignition on , if yes move to carb spray east start or pour some petrol into carb does the engine now try to start? have you checked the king lead from coil to dist is ok, its got to be something simple 

[Pete Lewis]

i would also add check the coil is being fed while cranking as worn ign switch terminals can give problems 

Pete