daverclasper Posted February 14, 2023 Report Share Posted February 14, 2023 Hi. I have the basic repro hoses that have lasted a good few years, though can be difficult to get a good seal. The rubber is thinner than original I recon, and also not a soft/pliable. Without changing to more expensive poly?, or dearer jubilee clips/fasteners, are there any tips. I have heard of winding electrical tape around the stubs?, for example. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 14, 2023 Report Share Posted February 14, 2023 If the surface of the metal the hoses clamp onto is smooth there shouldnt be any sealing problem even with repro hoses. However the quality of hose clips varies a lot and decides how much squeezing force can be applied. You want Mikalor or maybe even the original double wire type.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 14, 2023 Report Share Posted February 14, 2023 My hoses are coming up 7 years and will last a little longer, but I wished I'd got Silicone. Go on Dave, you know you want to! Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted February 14, 2023 Report Share Posted February 14, 2023 what do you mean by dearer jubilee clip/fasteners. They always used jubilee clips. (unless pre about 67 when the used double wire) The issue is today some seem to be made of soft cheese not quality metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 14, 2023 Report Share Posted February 14, 2023 Think its also the design. If you look at some 'jubilee' clips the teeth on the strap stand out and are just asking to be stripped... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 The "old" (Original) "jubille" clips where (IMV) of a far better quality than the product being produced to-day. Having said that, I well prefer the "proper" hose fasteners, when I can get them! and in the correct size. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 by design the rolled /raised rim on the casting/tube/connector should seal the leak the clip stops it coming off when pressure is built up for hoses its also worth alook at C O Baines who make many of them for most triumphs and much more Classic Cars (coh-baines.co.uk) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 Try Mikalor clamps John 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: by design the rolled /raised rim on the casting/tube/connector should seal the leak ... as long as it's in decent shape. The usual problem is that your 50 year old alloy thermostat housing has a surface that resembles some of the roads round here - more pothole than surface - with the added joy of a coating of loose corrosion products. Sort that out and the hoses shouldn't need much effort from the jubilee clip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 From memory I think, the torque for a "worm drive clip" should be 15 to 30ft/lb. depending on size/width?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 i suggest thats Lbs /ins lbs ft would wreck the clip completely Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 OOOOOOp`s Correct of course. ☹️ As my school reports said regularly. "Must do Better". Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 thats ok i had brain fog for the past 77 years but did lots of work introducing toqure control on the assy line in the late 60s and 70s Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 23 hours ago, daverclasper said: Without changing to more expensive poly?, or dearer jubilee clips/fasteners, are there any tips. For doubtful connections the metal surface can be cleaned/keyed with any handy abrasive paper then a decent smear of Blue Hyalomar all round before refitting the hose. Worm drive clamps (i.e. Jubilee) tend, when tight, may tend to pull slightly out of round so too tight can be counterproductive. Firm for sure but not necessarily gorilla tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 After having a couple of fuel hose leaks I changed to Mikalor clamps which solved the problem. I'm gradually changing the coolant hose clamps as Mikalor are soooo much better than most jubllee clamps. They have a smaller diameter range and maintain a uniform pressure. Fit and forget! Iain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 Mikalor clamps for me too. Re the item the hose fits onto like thermostat housings I've emery paper'd the surface then using a Dremel with a small grinder tool cleaned out any corroded pits in the surface the smeared JB weld over the surface let it dry/cure well then emery paper the surface smooth, worked well on the Spit & Vitesse, it's lasted without any break out of the corrosion over 20 years. The JB Weld when sanded smooths stays off grey and it's hard to differentiate from the parent metal. we have also done a mates E Type water pump housing the same and its still OK. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 I'm sure that Peter's technique works, but it is labour intensive! I prefer to use self-amalgamating silicone tape, a single wrap around the nozzle. This fills in all the craters in the surface and presents a smooth surface to the hose. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 12 hours ago, Peter Truman said: JB weld over the surface Peter, which JB product did you use? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 48 minutes ago, JohnD said: prefer to use self-amalgamating silicone tape, a single wrap around the nozzle. Just googled it, what a good solution! I can see Peter's idea working on corroded casting mating faces but the tape seems a quick and easy solution for leaky hoses. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 there is a problem with painted or shiny surfaces in the hose wont grip the fitting we had a lot of experience with this on some of the many metal tubes on a truck under presssure the hose gets pushed off we had to change the paint and double the bellmouth on the tubes and a as a supplement to early life leaks added a anti leak pellet (dog T) in every bottom pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 I had a devil of a job sealing my rad hoses as the tube ends are not perfectly round. They do have 'sausage swages' on the tube ends but it took the Mikalor clamps to seal properly. I'll definitely buy a roll of the tape as a handy alternative. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 Yes they can be a problem and you dont see the leaks because under pressure the coolant flashes off directly to steam. The early warning I notice is that the radiator overflow pipe is empty even though the bottle has got plenty in it. I do wonder if the hoses will stick to any self amalgamating tape on the connections though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 Iain the JB Weld I use and is on the current tubes I have is called JB Kwick it’s an epoxy and has Steel on the bottom of one tube and Hardener on the other. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 2 hours ago, johny said: Yes they can be a problem and you dont see the leaks because under pressure the coolant flashes off directly to steam. The early warning I notice is that the radiator overflow pipe is empty even though the bottle has got plenty in it. I do wonder if the hoses will stick to any self amalgamating tape on the connections though... Yes, they do. And that IS the point! If the hose needed to come off, then the tape may be peeled out of the hose end with needle nose pliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 I hoped the point was to provide a smooth clamping surface but without making it difficult to remove the hose later☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now