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Zero compression on cylinder 4


Kelv

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Final update from Bernard

Hi Kelvin,

 

The new petrol pump was fitted and the connections made. Using the priming lever I attempted to pull through from the tank ( I had tested the pump before installing it and it sucked well). No fuel would pull through. Pressure was applied at the fuel filler, but still no fuel would pull through. I removed the pump and cranked the lever that the camshaft operates and eventually fuel flowed. I tried the priming lever again and fuel flowed, I have had issues in the past with pumps struggling to draw fuel until they are full and I can only conclude that it is the thinner ethanol fuel. I re fitted the pump, operated the priming lever and fuel flowed up to the disconnected carb union. The carb was connected and the engine was cranked over, it would not start, I tried altering the timing and was just about to fit points and condenser so that I could set the timing statically when the engine fired. Between trying to get the engine started I was having to fast charge the battery as it was going flat very quickly. After another charge and with my jump starter, the engine fired and idled. I set the timing and turned the engine off. I tried to re start it, but the battery was flat again. After a few tests with my meter I could only guess that either the battery, the starter motor or both were at fault. The starter motor seemed to be drawing far too much current ( a guess ), so I acquired a good used replacement (£35) and fitted it. The engine started and ran well, I turned the engine off and re started it many times and it started and rean well each time. I will see if it starts tomorrow morning, if it does the car is ready for picking up, but I STRONGLY advise an oil and filter change (which I can do if you want). There is no antifreeze in the cooling system which I can add if you want, or you may want to wait a few days to ensure it doesn’t leak. The head will also have to be torqued down and the valve clearances re set after 500 miles.

1 2nd TIME OF FITTING.jpg

3 REPLACEMENT STARTER.jpg

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with the accumulation of growing problems its  unfortunate that the pockets get  Deeper

but its all heading for a good place and the engine will be far more  trouble free in its new life 

think you will be more than pleased when you have your first revived  drive and get the smile 

well done Bernard 

Pete

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I have a P6 V8 barn find that I'm restoring visually and cosmetically. I have no idea about mechanics.

I found a guy in Scotland who's replacing the interior on HIS P6 and he's giving me his old interior. 

 

The engine runs on mine and the rear wheels drive forward and backward when they are jacked off the road. The car drives backward but not forward when wheels are on the road. I'm thinking the BW35 auto box forward clutch is lacking friction and needs an overhaul or replacement. But it might be something simpler and cheaper. There's a torque converter, a kickdown cable, transmission fluid levels to consider and God knows what else! I have no idea.

 

I can buy a refurbished box for £500 from eBay but don't know anybody who can replace it. And what if the box isn't the fault? 


I need someone like Bernard to look at it and discover the fault and remedy it. Without it costing the Earth! 

 

 

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i would start by reading up about setting the shift cable on Rovers it could be well out of adjustment .

kick down .....wont have any real effect on the basic selector settings 

normally there is a small ferule crimped on the carb end of the kick down cable and at idle this should just touch 

against the cables  abutment 

oil level   yes  basic needs to be ok ( is there a cold fill and hot fill level on the dipstick )  ????

Pete

.

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Transmission was bone dry. No reading at all on the dipstick. Symptoms were reverse wheel movement when reverse gear selected but zero forward wheel movement in drive gears. I put 5 litres in the box and forward movement was fixed at all drive positions. But there's no strength to the forward movement. Also in neutral there is movement of the rear wheels but holding the wheel stops it quite easily. This is with wheels in the air. 

 

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Yes. Of course. Will do. Although Pete invited me to say more. But if talking about Rovers on a Triumph site makes your knees quiver, then I'll go elsewhere 😂

Edited by Kelv
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3 hours ago, Kelv said:

Yes. Of course. Will do. Although Pete invited me to say more. But if talking about Rovers on a Triumph site makes your knees quiver, then I'll go elsewhere 😂

No, no, Kelv! Please stay here with it! 

But if someone wants to contribute to a Rover V8 thread, they're unlikely to be looking for the one this started as!  I have a RV8 project so I'm interested, but that is mated to a Renault UN1 gearbox (transaxle), so I can't talk about the BW35.

John 

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I'm worn out with the Triumph tbh. She's still showing faults. Fuel isn't pumping. She drives for half a mile and then dies. The battery drains flat after one start too. Bern is getting a new battery and setting up a gravity feed test for the fuel.

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16 hours ago, Kelv said:

Fuel isn't pumping. She drives for half a mile and then dies.

Consider the possibility of accumulated debris in the fuel lines reducing flow. It was an issue on my GT6

On the GT6 the the fuel pipe routing comes out of the bottom of the tank, which I think is different to the Herald Vitesse.

Ian

Edited by Ian Foster
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remember any fuel hose fitting has the possibility of breeding the dreaded rubber slivers  get sheared off the rubber hose when inserting the metal pipework these float about and jam/block the back of the float needle valve 

its very common problem , less so with gates barricade hose which seems a much tougher compound 

Pete

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Further update...

 
Hi Kelvin,
 
Although the engine turned over sluggishly, it started and when warm the engine oil was drained, the oil filter removed and the bottom hose was disconnected to drain the water from the cooling system. The sump plug did not have a copper washer fitted and there was a large amount of debris on the magnetic part of the plug including the pin from the rocker shaft!! After cleaning up the plug and fitting a copper washer it was refitted, a new Powertune filter was fitted and the engine was filled with 20/50 mineral oil. The bottom hose was reconnected and 4 pints of anti-freeze was added. I took the car for my usual 2 mile round trip road test, I got about 1/2 mile and the engine cut out. After checking that there was a spark the engine fired and got me half way back, I had to push it the rest of the way. The battery was flat. I fast charged the battery and the car started after using some "Easy Start" but would not run. The battery was again flat when I tried to re start the engine. I charged it again and disconnected the fuel line from the carb, with the battery charged there was hardly any fuel being pumped through, I had found a good used pump last night in my shed at home and I fitted it, it did not increase the fuel delivery. I set up a gravity feed and had to charge the battery again, at which point I had run out of time. My next actions will be to fit a new battery, clean out the carb, try to run the engine from a gravity fed fuel reservoir, then re fit the new pump, if this doesn't help. I will fit an electric fuel pump to at least prove/disprove a fuel delivery issue, I'm not happy with the amount of fuel that is getting to the carb, I have come across this in the past and it was because the fuel pump cam profile on the camshaft had worn, but this is VERY rare.
 
Show quoted text

1 DRAINING ENGINE OIL.jpg

2 LOTS OF DEBRIS ON SUMP PLUG.jpg

3 IS THAT STP IN THE OIL.jpg

4 MAKING ROOM FOR ANTI FREEZE.jpg

5 ADDING ANTI FREEZE.jpg

6 COPPER WASHER ON CLEANED PLUG.jpg

7 TOP QUALITY OIL FILTER.jpg

8 ROCKER SHAFT PIN WAS ON SUMP PLUG.jpg

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