Colin Lindsay Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 In my house they'd just have taken cabinet and all, then worried about opening it when they got to their destination... Nice piece of kit though... might just order them one, although I think I remember them saying the tool that had was sore on the hands and difficult to use, so must ask what they had earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 So, on to the next bit. Now the car is on the road, does anyone have any words of wisdom about an alarm system. It has an old Moss unit which works well but I only have one key fob for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 I have installed a flashing red led in the dash with a hidden push button under the dash - cost £3.00 all in plus base ball bat type steering lock - highly visual - about £8.00 . Also Battery disconnect switch and last but not least a tap by the petrol feed in the boot. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Is anyone using one of those battery isolators with a separate lead to maintain radio settings, burglar alarm etc. Apart from having to lift the Spitfire bonnet (must put bonnet rams on my Christmas list) they look useful and would stop some little oick reaching in and turning on the headlights for fun and flattening your battery, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 32 minutes ago, Badwolf said: Apart from having to lift the Spitfire bonnet (must put bonnet rams on my Christmad list) Personally I would avoid using them. They put enormous stresses on the inner wheel arches when the bonnet is closed. If the wings/wheel arches are badly corroded (and they usually are, and filled with filler) then the whole wheel arch can be ripped off the bonnet. If the wings/wheel arches are in good condition, the whole wheel arch can be distorted, and the bonnet hinge tubes can develop stress cracks and fail - I've seen it happen ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Kevin. Thanks for the warning. The metalwork on the bonnet is in very decent condition but I see your point. Everyone I have spoken to about these think that they are a great idea and actually stop distortion of the bonnet when doing a one man lift. Maybe further research is needed??!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 I fitted them for this exact reason. Most people lift the bonnet from the wrong point anyway and a one person lift did make it twist even though mine is in really good condition I can now open the bonnet easily and so far there is no stress damage to the inner wings BTW I did have to redesign the frame hinge brackets supplied by the club for my mk1 GT6 Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 I have seen some on fleabay that attach to the radiator mounting bracket. The club ones mount on the quarter valance bolts. Has anyone tried the ones that mount on the rad bracket? Now that would need some heavy duty support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 4 hours ago, AidanT said: I fitted them for this exact reason. Most people lift the bonnet from the wrong point anyway and a one person lift did make it twist even though mine is in really good condition I can now open the bonnet easily and so far there is no stress damage to the inner wings BTW I did have to redesign the frame hinge brackets supplied by the club for my mk1 GT6 Aidan I'm looking forward to fitting mine once the lower brackets arrive from the Club shop - the supplier seems to have let them down on a couple of occasions with promised deliveries not landing. I'm told the Mk IV / 1500 Spit / Mk 3 GT6 bracketry is a better fit than for the earlier models. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 Have any Spitfire owners come across some sort of locking petrol tank cap, or converted their old one to take a lock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Cooper Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 I have a locking petrol cap on my Spitfire. The chrome filler is not standard but the method of fitting should be the same for the original filler. The locking cap is a typical after-market type that was for a mini I think. I'm sorry to be vague about this but I did this more than 30 years ago. The brass part you can see in the picture is a plumbing fitting of some sort that was roughly the right size to fit into the neck of the chrome cap. I filed out two notches that allowed the locking part of the cap to pass through and then glued the brass into the neck. I hope the pictures explain this better. The picture of the locking cap shows it partially unlocked so that you can see how the locking part moves to grip the brass ring. Let me know if you want any measurements. Adrian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 Adrian. Thanks for that. Gives me a starting point to look for a cap and appropriate adapter ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Ok so just picked up the Spitfire from having the carbs setup having failed miserably to sort it out myself. Sorry to everyone who has given me advice and encouragement but it came to a point where I wanted to enjoy the last of the decent weather without sooty plugs or kangaroo juice petrol. She is now running a treat, carbs set and balanced, valves and timing set. Next job is to sort out the knock from the back end. New ujs bought and ready to go in. Before I take spanners to the prop and half shafts, is there anything that I need to watch out for? The manuals make them look like fairly straight forward jobs, but the regular contributors will probably have their 'need to know' and don't do under any circumstances lists, and before I start. I need to know please!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 unless its all a bit catastrophic and all is well stuff then.......... props dont knock .......... driveshafts do Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Pete. I think I understand that.... I will start with the drive shafts then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Make sure that it's not just something as simple as an overlong bolt or one that has worked free hitting the diff every time the shaft rotates..... seen it happen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Thanks Colin. I mentioned earlier in this thread that there was a clunk from the back end before the car was moth-balled. After 20+ years it sounds a lot worse, or perhaps I am just a little more sensitive to it. No matter what, I think that the UJs are due for replacement as, I'm sure, that they were not done on the original body off restoration which means that they could be over 30 years old. They have certainly had no lubrication by me as I did not know they needed it. I will, however, look out for the points mentioned by everyone... strap drive catching, long bolts (could even be the wrong ones fitted!!), loose bolts and lack of lubrication. They could all be points leading to the clunks and ALL things that I would not have looked for without the help of all you excellent contributors who give your time and advice so freely to all of us who would be totally lost without it. Once again I thank you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 Doug - Re posting on Bertie's thread. It should be fairly straight forward to sort out your id photo. Its about time I gave something back for all that you have given me. I am probably better at manipulating photos than Spitfire engines! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted November 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 Slightly off track, but is there a guide anywhere to actually using the forum and what all the little icons mean? How do you win the day for posts and stuff, and how do you get the points shown above the number of posts. I appear to have scored 8 up to date but have no idea why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 You win the day for posts by........posting the most posts in a day! The number above the number of posts is the total "likes" you have accumulated by other people pressing the heart icon on your posts. Don't think you can like your own stuff, but I might try that. 8 people like you, but you'll have to go some to overtake Uncle Pete! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 Quote I will start with the drive shafts then. Worth a read: http://www.triumphclub.co.nz/?page_id=497 C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted December 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 Casper - Thanks for the link. Apologies for not responding, I have been very busy with other things for the past week or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted December 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 I have finally got around to looking at my seat foams and covers. Before I order them, is there any comment about the usefulness of reclining seats (apart from that!!!.. and in a Spitfire you must be joking or a contortionist - thread drift starts here!). Mine are currently the oringinal low back, non reclining. Before I go to the expense of new covers etc, should I be looking at replacement seat frames, if I can find any at a reasonable price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 I would go for recliners. We are all different shapes, arms, legs, torso, short, long and average. Recliners give you additional driving position adjustment. I was surprised when I replaced my seat foams to find my head touching the roof in the full upright position. Fortunately I needed the recliner to get my arms comfortable on the wheel in conjunction with the seat back and forth adjustment for my legs.. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Have you seen Doug, !!! one size fits !!!!! All Ha He's suppost to be heading for scotland in his mobile armchair Many spitfire frames fracture at the backrest base so they become self recliners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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