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Spitfire 1500 Engine Rebuild


Anglefire

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Had a little tinker this morning - found out yesterday we are going to my Mum and Dads for lunch today :o - so just spent a couple of hours removing the rear section of exhaust - despite looking like it had a mounting point unt the gearbox and forward of the rear diff, it turned out the only thing really holding it on, was the two rear hangers and the manifold. :blink:

And refitting the manifolds and new water hoses - suddenly realised it would be easier and therefore more sensible to fit them before fitting the manifolds - that makes a change. :)

Might get a bit of time in the morning to do a bit more, but we'll see. I want to enjoy what I'm doing and it not be a chore!

Oh, I also found the fuel pump is leaking - had a slight leak from the plugged fuel hose, so thought I'd just pop it onto the pump - to find petrol P**g over the floor -_- - so pulled it off and plugged the pipe a bit better and it stopped.

Seems to be leaking from the flange of the two halves so looks like some more bits to get!

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Don't have noisy neighbours - but ones down the street can't park - must have lost the use of their legs as they park across the road from each other leaving just enough gap to get a car down - luckily no fire engines have been needed down our end of the cul-de-sac............... Yet. 

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9 hours ago, Anglefire said:

Well, given that a couple of inches of snow fell last night - and is now defrosting to a horrible slush, I think I'll stay in the warm today!

Yep - called a snowcheck too. Pantomime tomorrow, so another day potentially lost unless I Spring out of bed in the morning - which is unlikely! At least I managed to get on the cycle trainer this morning...

Gully

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Had an hour in the garage - too cold really.

But I have inspected the radiator frame - and whilst at a push it could be used, it is going rotten in the one corner - behind where the expansion bottle sits - which is also where the old rad fins are particularly missing!

And looked at the exhaust and need the exhaust clips to fit it.

And the fuel pump is knackered so either needs new guts or just a new one.

And a few other odds and sods.

So, I'll get a list of parts I need and then see where to get them from.

I do know the rad frame is out of stock everywhere - with David Manners the only one quoting a time to obtain - 4 days but they don't open until 2nd Jan :( 

So I've filled the boot of the BM with rubbish (Mostly boxes!) and will go to the tip later. Or tomorrow. 

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On 23/12/2017 at 1:58 PM, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Anglefire

                           Newman lists 0.014" inlet and 0.016" exhaust for all 1300/1500cc camshafts.

My Triumph Manual lists cylinder head 46ft/lb

Rocker pedestal 34ft/lb 3/8"unf x 3.09" stud

This is a 1500 cc manual AMK4329 by BL Cars Ltd 1979

Roger

ps I have just ordered a Newman camshaft but a PH2 as I am trying to built a bit more powerful engine!

Going back to this slightly - only because I've been watching video's on degreeing your Cam! - well it was that or watch 50 shades....

Anyway, I've sussed the gap - but what was confusing me is the metric conversion - I think it's wrong!

image.png.df17e7395031f58e44b93f9c59a4b9f3.png

Based on the lift @TDC being 0.030" or 0.075mm then that is a factor of 10 out - 30thou is actually 0.752mm

14thou is actually 0.356mm, not 0.300mm 

The valve lift conversion is correct though - 0.375" is 9.525mm and 0.250" is 6.35mm

It's also interesting that the TR6 conversion looks to be more correct.

image.png.41b609584215a7688628ffe50cd31d0f.png

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Fitted the new exhaust today - it will no doubt need some feltling once its all running, but is good enough for now. Before finally fitting the two tips I had repainted underneath the boot floor as it was fully exposed with Buzzwelds CIO. Nice and solid, but a bit of surface rust under some of the underseal - I'd stripped that off yesterday and applied some rust converter from Buzzweld. Not really used the Buzzweld paints before, but have to say I do like it - the CIO dried in just a few minutes and as it was only about 10'C very acceptable. 

Also re-checked the cam timing - couldn't do it accurately enough with the rockers on - so whipped them off and did it directly on the end of the push rod - lift was 251thou - so spot on and at TDC was just shy of 30thou - about 1/2deg out I reckon - which is close enough given the available adjustment on the timing wheel - which only has two options and not 4 (You can't swap the duplex gear around, only rotate to different holes.)

Then refitted the rockers and set the gap to the Newmans imperial datum. 

Refitted the rocker and breather pipes and the throttle and choke cables. 

Can't much more now until I get the radiator frame and fuel pump etc. :( 

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My excuse is that I remembered the context it was written - and 17/18 is not a common imperial fraction :rolleyes:

59 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

(Nice exhaust, though!!)

Yeah I think it is - especially for the £200 is cost me, including the manifold. :D

Not heard it yet, but it does have a mid through silencer so hopefully won't be too loud!

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Popped out and got the exhaust hanging better now - though it does seem to be about 1/2" too far to the left as you look at it - but if I move it over, the center pipe down the middle of the car becomes too close to the chassis rails - its pretty much bang down  the middle at the moment. 

I also removed the 3 studs out of the old engine to fit in the new one - came out ok and are in good nick - fitted with washers and new nuts and at least those are done up. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still not got the radiator frame - still on back order :( so I popped to David Manners this morning and picked up everything else I ordered (Like nuts and bolts and fuel pump and am planning to get back in the garage and see if I can't use the old one temporarily and get it all back together and running at least to test it works!

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Re the exhaust. Not sure ifit has been done/mentioned, but fitting a hanger off the diff front plate is essential. And if I may suggest, it is worth getting the rear boxes up as high as possible. I used very short hangers there, to the extent the two bolts were almost adjacent. And I used longer setscrews on theone through the body, bolted that up with washer/nyloc, then another washer, then hanging strap. That made room for the bolt head for the box fixing bolt...

Don't be tempted by the rubber bobbins. A good idea but they shear very readily (they are designed to be used in compression)

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I've spent a couple of hours in the garage this morning. Not touched the exhaust though - I'll see how that goes when I get it back on the road - the bolts/straps on the back boxes are probably 1 3/4" apart? With the hanger from the boot floor probably another 1-1 1/2" - the exhaust does "look" to be all higher than the lowest point on the chassis though. :)

I've loosely fitted the old rad frame (ie bolts in but not tight) and fitted the new rad and fitted the final two hoses to the rad.

Fitted the new fuel pump. Reconnected the fuel lines. Fitted the starter cables (Mines a pre-engaged starter so has 2 wires :lol:)

Filled it with oil.

Made a "spade" drive from a bit of bar I "borrowed" from my Dad  - span up the oil pump (Backwards on the drill  :P) and that developed a nice amount of pressure - you could feel it as it pressurised the system - could also hear the oil coming out of various places - no obvious oil in the cam - but it was very oily in there from the filling process!

I don't think I will do another drill run before starting - as I've taken a good half an hour to get the dizzy in - which I still haven't achieved :huh:

I can't get the pedestal back in again - the dizzy drive is lined up perfectly and in good mesh - and the right orientation to get the rota arm to line up in the usual place. It looks like the hole it too small for it - which it can't be as it came out! Not sure the best way of getting it back in - heat on the block was one thought? Or the pedestal in the freezer?

So I've given up for today - was getting a bit cold and a bacon butty was offered ;)

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Seems the radiator frame is not going to arrive for an indeterminate time - the manufacturer is experiencing problems. 

Looks like I might well be cleaning up and painting the old one. Which is a bit of a bugger as its not in great shape - good enough probably for the time being I guess.

Still got to fit the dizzy pedestal - but had no time the last few days and its cold!

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11 minutes ago, Anglefire said:

Seems the radiator frame is not going to arrive for an indeterminate time - the manufacturer is experiencing problems. 

Looks like I might well be cleaning up and painting the old one. Which is a bit of a bugger as its not in great shape - good enough probably for the time being I guess.

Still got to fit the dizzy pedestal - but had no time the last few days and its cold!

Hello Angelfire

                          Is it the 2 side pieces that fit on the narrow radiator you need?

If it is I must have a pair somewhere as I fitted a full width radiator a couple of years ago

If it is you can have them, just let me know before I go hunting!

The exhaust you have fitted looks the same as the one I have with a middle box, We think it is not to noisy but does make a nice sound when pushed!

Roger

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Thanks Roger,

No I have the two side defectors - its the frame the wide and narrow rad fits onto - part number TKC1761 - its less than £20 so didn't think worth the time and effort to sort the old one out.

Good news on the exhaust - this one came from Rimmers originally and has the middle through box too. 

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