citybreeze Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 I'm trying to work out what is the most likely cause of the rear end sag on my mk3 Spitfire, and work out why it seems to have gotten a whole lot worse. I've been fixing the car on the driveway for the past few weeks, and had already noticed a bit of a sag on the offside rear compared to the nearside rear. I could get three fingers between the top of the tyre and wheel arch on the passenger side, but only two on the drivers. Today, I took it out for a spin (only acouple of miles) too see how it was running, all felt ok (maybe a little bit 'floaty' at the back end). Now both tyres are sitting up inside the wheelarches, seems like hardly any damping when I do the bounce test, and both tyres appear toe out (I think that's the term, further out at the bottom than the top, opposite to when I jack it up). Is this more likely to be a tired leaf spring? Or shock absorbers? Or does it sound like something else has gone wrong? There was no knocking or bottoming out, even over speed humps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Could be the spacers knackered (Assuming the mk3 is the same as later models? http://www.triumphspitfire.nl/rearspringpads.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 to check a lean you need to jack the front end up centrally and look at the back then jack the rear end up centrally and look at the front you would be amazed how many 'lean' are caused by the opposite end of the car to the visual lean on top of worn spring pads have a look at ......... bent antiroll bars are quite often the problem, as are spring pad heights on the front shockers worth doing a tape measure fitted length of the front springs two springs are listed fitted length green 7.8" +-0.09" and light blue 7.42" +- 0.09" both are the same poundage colour codes are probably long gone if the back does a double bounce it sound like the shockers are shot do your toe in test to make sure the rears are 0 -3mm toe in pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 4 hours ago, citybreeze said: and both tyres appear toe out (I think that's the term, further out at the bottom than the top, opposite to when I jack it up). You're describing negative camber - toe is the difference in alignment between the front and rear facing elements of the tyre. To eliminate the shocks doing something odd you can always disconnect them and then bounce the rear of the car (not suggesting you drive it like that!). If the lean disappears, you have a shock sticking. However, it does sound as though you have a sagging spring. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citybreeze Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 I've had a look at the anti-roll bar and it doesn't look obviously bent to me, but one of the mounting brackets is, so I'm guessing it can't be the right shape. The bushings also look cracked and worn. I've been considering the conversion kit from Canleys, for doing the rear spring and bigger anti-roll bar in one go. Does anybody have any positive/negative experiences of using this kit? It's £260 so I'd ideally like to know if it's worth it first. I don't know how old the shocks are, but from appearance they look very old. They are a lot cheaper than I was expecting, so I'll probably replace all four. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 If this is a swing spring kit it works well on mk3 spitfire I think you will find the 7/8" arb was introduced on all in later production as the thin ones tend to gain a set twist.. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 As Pete says, the swing spring conversion is good, though a good used spring/arb may be an option? My old MK3 got used parts, back then I paid £10 for everything. Probably a lot more 25 years on. Re shocks. If you are thinking of the black ones, they are not very good. May be worse than what is fitted. Also check the front seat pan height, they used to be too high making the front of the car sit high and silly. Decent shocks are available, kyb, monroe etc sometimes via eBay, other than that you are on to adjustables. Koni for me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 I have Gaz shocks from the club shop, very good, a dramatic difference. Beware Monroe which I'm told are no longer "Monroe" and made in China, old stock may be alright but how do you know it's the real thing? Same as Lucas. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad4classics Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 7 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: I have Gaz shocks from the club shop, very good, a dramatic difference. Beware Monroe which I'm told are no longer "Monroe" and made in China, old stock may be alright but how do you know it's the real thing? Same as Lucas. Doug Doug, Didn't know that, I was toying with Monroe aswell. Oh well I'll have to think again. Thanks David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 it is all down to preferences , how much use and what sort of use you get from your car and wallet you can go from £80 per car to £350 and more club shop is a fair deal on Gaz but there is a world of difference in quality and price in shockers ....quite shocking then with adjustables there is the what to set it at, trial and error on spax it was reckoned to have the rears on minimum...whats the point of that ...expensive adjustment seemingly not required i found on the Vit6 with gaz fronts and spax rears depending on load and road you were always up a bit down a bit . drives you mad then the adjuster wheel on the gaz filles the detent clicker up with road dirt and you cant turn it without stripping the knob off for a clean sorry in a bar humbug mood yuo pays you money and takes a choice Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 58 minutes ago, Mad4classics said: Doug, Didn't know that, I was toying with Monroe aswell. Oh well I'll have to think again. Thanks David Another vote for Gaz purchased from the club shop as part of suspension conversion for my.mk2 vitesse Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 There are kyb adjustables on eBay for approx £80/pr. Kyb are oem on loads of Japanese cars, so buy with a high degree of confidence if you choose them. Non-profit adjustables about £10/pr less, and possibly just as good for most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citybreeze Posted June 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 I think I'm going to take the plunge and go for the Canley swing spring conversion then, seems like it'll be worth it in the long run. As for shocks, I wasn't intending on getting adjustables because as has been said, I just know I'd spend the rest of my life adjusting them...and never getting it just right. If the standard black ones are poor then I'll probably keep an eye out on eBay for something decent. Those KYBs sound like a good option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Thats a sound plan till you get to know the car and decide ìts fine or may be one day go nuts and splash the cash Clives right Kyb have good reputation. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Broken leaf? I had that on my Mk4 a few years ago. Caused by a driving a bit to fast over a bridge and then finding out the other side was slightly washed out. She landed heavily and broke a leaf at the rear. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Cb you should still do a front rear lift to prove if the lean is front or rear helps focus on anything else you may uncover Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 I had broken leaf on my mkiv, only to find it was fitted with a leaf spring from a mklll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Knackered spring?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citybreeze Posted March 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Apologies for resurrecting this old thread, but I've only just got around to fitting the rear spring now that the good weather is back. I bought the Canley swing spring conversion kit, and renewed all the front suspension parts before winter set in (I don't have a garage to work in). The spring itself looks pretty straightforward to fit, although I cant see any markings to say which is the front edge, any clues as to where I should be looking? I'm also fitting a half-inch spacer block. By the shape of it, it appears like it is supposed to sit directly on top of the diff, and under the spring, is this correct? I'm concerned that the locating stud on the underside of the bottom leaf will then only locate into the spacer block, and is not long enough to sit in its place on the diff. Is this a problem? Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 as far as i remember there is no way round the thoughts seem to be as it always raised a question they marked front for production operators to save them asking all the time im sure the eyes are not angled or have any idea what way round they are . as for a spacer this should have a spigot to drop in the diff hole and a hole to take the spring pin so both are interconnected all located by the channel in the diff and the shoulder on the spacer , plus the 4 or 6 studs as well as the spring centre pin you may need longer studs in the diff, and yes under the spring , most spacers are quite a snug fit in the diff so may need a check retorque after settlement . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citybreeze Posted March 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Cheers Pete Got it all done this afternoon, the trickiest bit was lining everything up to put the new (longer) studs through. I've loaded the car up with plenty of weights in the boot and behind the seats, and left a big bag of sand on the drivers seat. Hopefully it'll settle a bit with that lot in it while I'm away over the weekend. I'll then retourque everything, and check it again after a few runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 You have me well ...puzzled, i may be wrong here but........you seem to have a swing spring box with a non swing spring spring. Hows this to work you cant fit the through bolt , how does this box clamp the spring ???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 That really looks very much like what I took off my Spitfire (left) and what I was supplied with from Chester and fitted (right). I did have to go back to get the box section and other hardware, but it all works. I must add that a garage fitted it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Pete, I think the LH spring is the old mk3 one, and the new spring is a swingspring... CB, it probably won't settle without it being driven. But The spring eye bolts must be tightened with the weight on the wheels. Once it is tightened up, leave the weights in the car for a while, do some hump backed bridges etc to give the suspension a good workout, that usually settles things. Don't gort=get to re-set the rear wheel alignment after (important!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Clive - Thanks for your comments. I doubt that this was done when my spring was replaced (see previous post from 3/07/18). Although settled down well I may go through your instructions just to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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