Adrian Saunders Posted August 13, 2018 Report Share Posted August 13, 2018 Is it beneficial to re-route the pipe from pump to carbs? Is it better to sheath the pipe with something reflective and heat-proof. All suggestions etc very welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Just use gates R9 hose all the way it doesnt conduct heat like a metal pipe And routing is easy and you can take a route away from then hot zones Insulation wont do much as the pump is running at block temperature and probably the hottest place in the pipe run Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 I don't agree with Pete here. R9 is flexible hose and is not suitable for long runs. Keep it rigid. He is right about the insulation, though. Far more heat gets in at the pump than the pipe work. On my Spitfire I have an electric pump and ran the pipe around the bulkhead so it only gets near the engine at the carbs. It still waits to be seen how well that works in practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Which car? The pump is the opposite side of the block to the manifolds in any of mine so it's as cool as it's going to get. The route up the block and across the front gets the cool air from the engine fan too; any fuel evaporation is at the carbs and rarely the pipe. The only time I rerouted one was when I fitted an Alexander manifold using twin 1.25 Strombergs that had the fuel intake on the opposite side, so routed the pipe up across the rear of the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Hi all Herald 13/60 Can I just comment on the route of my petrol pipe. Mine is metal pipe from pump to carb routed by the dynamo, behind fan but in front of cylinder head. entering the carb from the front. If you are looking at the carb from the off side of the engine the pipe goes in on the right side. I am told this is the correct and original route. Your thoughts welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Yep, sounds like it. Up around the distributor and behind the dynamo. It should be clamped where it passes close to the fanbelt at the water pump housing by a small metal clip attached to one of the bolts, or at least resting on a metal support (have seen both types.) I've seen it routed behind the thermostat and in front of the rocker cover, but that's not correct and there's no real benefit in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 On my Mk1 2L Vitesse metal pipe from pump to carbs same route as in 13/60 above, also metal pipe to feed both carbs with short lengths of flexible to join it all up. Never been a problem touch wood, been driving the Vitesse more than the modern during this hot summer, temperature's at times have approached the mid thirties. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 I agree with Pete, use R9 all the way between pump and carbs. Works for me. Don't agree with NonMember, why's it got to be riged? db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 Personally I think rigid is better for the fact that it is self supporting over a longer distance - I don't know the spec, but if you assume you need a clip every foot or 18", hose will surely need one every 6"? And it should last longer than hose? But other than that I can't think of a technical reason - it will probably have a higher resistance to flow than solid pipe for a given size just because of its surface. Is that significant? Who knows - given others have used it successfully, I assume not. Or does it only become an issue in the extreme? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 why not use what every 70/ 80s used ............... nylon pipe with simple self grippy connector , bet Richards Alpine has them i love the way we keep doing things the hard way ??? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 The stock routing is definitely not ideal, it doesn't take much for petrol to boil - especially European ethanol blends. After breaking down on the autobahn we replaced the rigid line with r9 running under the engine along the steering rack and back up to the carb. This still wasn't enough, so in Iran (40c+ in the desert, dry heat) we had an electric fuel pump fitted to minimise heat in the petrol before the carb. Before we left I did some thermal imaging shots, you can see the amount of heat around the cylinder head, not an ideal place for a fuel pipe to run. The water pump housing is also pretty hot. All this said, on my other Herald I've never had a problem. The single SU seems more prone than a Stromberg. A carb heat shield definitely helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted August 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 I shall leave it as metal for now. Is there a mechanical pump out there upon which the outlet doesn’t Point at the dizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 I've checked some of my spares and I have at least two where, although the inlet goes into the body and so is stuck in one direction only, the outlet is on the rotatable top and so can be moved if the top nut is loosened. I haven't checked to see how far it'll rotate but I don't believe the direction of the outlet affects the internals in any way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 on some like colin shows there is a location lug and notch to control top orientation if they dont locate then the seal leaks as the lug pitches the top Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted August 16, 2018 Report Share Posted August 16, 2018 Metal is normally used for long runs of fuel pipe. The reason given is safety as it's more resilient. Please don't shoot the messenger! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 16, 2018 Report Share Posted August 16, 2018 22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: on some like colin shows there is a location lug and notch to control top orientation if they dont locate then the seal leaks as the lug pitches the top Pete Aw no, Pete! Now I'm going to have to go out and dismantle one to see how much adjustment for repositioning there is...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 16, 2018 Report Share Posted August 16, 2018 You know you will have the only two without the locations Ha!!! I found out with a car leaking on the drive Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted August 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2018 5 hours ago, dave.vitesse said: Metal is normally used for long runs of fuel pipe. The reason given is safety as it's more resilient. Please don't shoot the messenger! Dave No friendly fire here Dave. Valid point mate. Thanks. Mine has copper at the moment, that’ll remain until the winter, then I’ll change for CuNi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted August 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2018 On 8/15/2018 at 2:25 PM, Pete Lewis said: why not use what every 70/ 80s used ............... nylon pipe with simple self grippy connector , bet Richards Alpine has them i love the way we keep doing things the hard way ??? pete Metal certainly looks better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted August 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 On 8/14/2018 at 11:23 PM, dougbgt6 said: I agree with Pete, use R9 all the way between pump and carbs. Works for me. Don't agree with NonMember, why's it got to be riged? db Where can I get R9 hose from? I couldn’t find it on the tssc site, but I’m not a member, yet. There’s lots of hits on Google but there’s also talk of it not actually being R9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark powell Posted August 25, 2018 Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 I think I got mine from Moss. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/ethanol-proof-fuel-hose-by-gates.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2018 Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 You can order Gates Barricade fuel line via the Club Shop which is R9 - additionally Barricade line comes in Imperial where a lot of other suppliers only stock metric. If you put Gates Barricade in to the above search option you will get many responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 25, 2018 Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 Club shop try a search for fuel hose it wont search for r9 or gates Shop does 1/4" and 5/16" internal diameter Gates R9 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2018 Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: it wont search for r9 or gates It certainly gets a hit and many of them with Gates, Pete. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 Pete, My apologies you are correct, of course. You are referring to the Club Shop search whilst I was flagging the Forum search facility. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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