Jump to content

Fuel pipe, pump to carbs. Improvements.


Adrian Saunders

Recommended Posts

I don't agree with Pete here. R9 is flexible hose and is not suitable for long runs. Keep it rigid.

He is right about the insulation, though. Far more heat gets in at the pump than the pipe work.

On my Spitfire I have an electric pump and ran the pipe around the bulkhead so it only gets near the engine at the carbs. It still waits to be seen how well that works in practice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which car? The pump is the opposite side of the block to the manifolds in any of mine so it's as cool as it's going to get. The route up the block and across the front gets the cool air from  the engine fan too; any fuel evaporation is at the carbs and rarely the pipe. The only time I rerouted one was when I fitted an Alexander manifold using twin 1.25 Strombergs that had the fuel intake on the opposite side, so routed the pipe up across the rear of the block. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all

Herald 13/60

Can I just comment on the route of my petrol pipe. Mine is metal pipe from pump to carb routed by the dynamo,  behind fan but in front of cylinder head.  entering the carb from the front.  If you are looking at the carb from the off side of the engine the pipe goes in on the right side.  I am told this is the correct and original route.

 

Your thoughts welcome 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, sounds like it. Up around the distributor and behind the dynamo. It should be clamped where it passes close to the fanbelt at the water pump housing by a small metal clip attached to one of the bolts, or at least resting on a metal support (have seen both types.) I've seen it routed behind the thermostat and in front of the rocker cover, but that's not correct and there's no real benefit in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my Mk1 2L Vitesse metal pipe from pump to carbs same route as in 13/60 above, also metal pipe to feed both carbs with short lengths of flexible to join it all up. Never been a problem  touch wood, been driving the Vitesse more than the modern during this hot summer, temperature's at times have approached the mid thirties.

Regards

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally I think rigid is better for the fact that it is self supporting over a longer distance - I don't know the spec, but if you assume you need a clip every foot or 18", hose will surely need one every 6"? And it should last longer than hose? 

But other than that I can't think of a technical reason - it will probably have a higher resistance to flow than solid pipe for a given size just because of its surface. Is that significant? Who knows - given others have used it successfully, I assume not. Or does it only become an issue in the extreme? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The stock routing is definitely not ideal, it doesn't take much for petrol to boil - especially European ethanol blends. After breaking down on the autobahn we replaced the rigid line with r9 running under the engine along the steering rack and back up to the carb.

This still wasn't enough, so in Iran (40c+ in the desert, dry heat) we had an electric fuel pump fitted to minimise heat in the petrol before the carb.

Before we left I did some thermal imaging shots, you can see the amount of heat around the cylinder head, not an ideal place for a fuel pipe to run. The water pump housing is also pretty hot.

All this said, on my other Herald I've never had a problem. The single SU seems more prone than a Stromberg. A carb heat shield definitely helps.

ZTxAtxT.jpg

vGyF5C7.jpg

xkqYZBj.jpg

YevN6ej.jpg

QnF7lE9.jpg

8qOaArA.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've checked some of my spares and I have at least two where, although the inlet goes into the body and so is stuck in one direction only, the outlet is on the rotatable top and so can be moved if the top nut is loosened. I haven't checked to see how far it'll rotate but I don't believe the direction of the outlet affects the internals in any way.

 

DSCF5768.jpg.4a69cabebc7afffdb7ffe34aa0c7b785.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

on some like colin shows there is a location lug and notch to control top orientation  

if they dont locate then the seal leaks as the lug pitches the top 

Pete

Aw no, Pete! Now I'm going to have to go out and dismantle one to see how much adjustment for repositioning there is...!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, dave.vitesse said:

Metal is normally used for long runs of fuel pipe. The reason given is safety as it's more resilient.   Please don't shoot the messenger!

Dave  

No friendly fire here Dave. Valid point mate. Thanks. 

Mine has copper at the moment, that’ll remain until the winter, then I’ll change for CuNi. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/14/2018 at 11:23 PM, dougbgt6 said:

I agree with Pete, use R9 all the way between pump and carbs. Works for me. Don't agree with NonMember, why's it got to be riged?

db

Where can I get R9 hose from? I couldn’t find it on the tssc site, but I’m not a member, yet. There’s lots of hits on Google but there’s also talk of it not actually being R9. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can order Gates Barricade fuel line via the Club Shop which is R9 - additionally Barricade line comes in Imperial where a lot of other suppliers only stock metric. 

If you put Gates Barricade in to the above search option you will get many responses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...