Paul H Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 My Vitesse mk2 has a spin-off conversion plus I still have the original canister system. Which is the best system for the engine as I have access to use a service pit. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 The idea with this conversion is that the filter can hang down and stay full of oil. The original used to empty itself so on start up took time to refill which caused the bearings to have to operate for a while without an oil supply. The only downside is that due to lack of space its difficult to get the conversion filter into a fully vertical position but anything is better than the original and some people use a smaller screw on filter to help.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 1 minute ago, johny said: The idea with this conversion is that the filter can hang down and stay full of oil. The original used to empty itself so on start up took time to refill which caused the bearings to have to operate for a while without an oil supply. The only downside is that due to lack of space its difficult to get the conversion filter into a fully vertical position but anything is better than the original and some people use a smaller screw on filter to help.... My filter is at approx 45 degrees . What’s the best fitting filter I should be using ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 The spin-on conversion I put on my 2500S worked well, but the one on the Vitesse is just too awkward. My GT6 has the original canister and builds pressure just as quickly as the Vitesse does. I'm not planning to change the Vitesse back but I'm not planning to change the GT6 either. The original system is OK. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 45º is good. Obviously a smaller filter has a smaller flow capacity and its pressure drop due to dirt will increase at a greater rate than the specified one so the benefit is probably minimal. Do you have a problem with the bearings rattling on a cold start up until the oil gets round? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 3 minutes ago, johny said: 45º is good. Obviously a smaller filter has a smaller flow capacity and its pressure drop due to dirt will increase at a greater rate than the specified one so the benefit is probably minimal. Do you have a problem with the bearings rattling on a cold start up until the oil gets round? I think I heard the death rattle once , that’s all , oil pressure on startup goes to 70 to 75 then settles back to 45 to 50 at about 2700 revs Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 yours sounds good as I have to start mine with minimal choke to keep the revs as low as possible to avoid the deadly rattle..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 The low pressure rattle on start up is so devastating its only done it for 50,years , without a problem Get real dont get paranoid Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 think its still better to avoid it if you can though Pete.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin M Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 I use the Mann W712 filter on the filter conversion of my Vitesse and GT6. This filter is only 79mm high. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: The low pressure rattle on start up is so devastating its only done it for 50,years , without a problem Yup. The engines were designed with the death rattle. Although I will own up to having a spin on/off conversion (canister at 45 degrees) It's so much easier and less messy to change the filter. Plus the rubber seal once gave way on the original system and lost ALL the oil, my ex was driving and didn't notice the little light. Cost me a new crank. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 yes Martin I think thats the standard size spin on used on our cars but you could go to a 59mm high item (Mann filter W77) that still seems to match all the requirements.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 22, 2019 Report Share Posted July 22, 2019 Mann 714/2 fits nicely and has a double anti-drain flap. I have found the spin-on conversion to be hugely better than the standard arrangement. Provided the right inner O-ring is fitted on the older style adaptor. Pete, these engines, as a group may have been suffering death rattle for 50 years, but I'm damn sure no single engine has survived 50 years of the death rattle. Metal to metal contact is undesirable -- end of story. Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 10 hours ago, Nick Jones said: Mann 714/2 fits nicely and has a double anti-drain flap. I have found the spin-on conversion to be hugely better than the standard arrangement. Provided the right inner O-ring is fitted on the older style adaptor. Pete, these engines, as a group may have been suffering death rattle for 50 years, but I'm damn sure no single engine has survived 50 years of the death rattle. Metal to metal contact is undesirable -- end of story. Nick Hi Nick , didn’t understand this part of your post “Provided the right inner O-ring is fitted on the older style adaptor.” Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 The original adaptor came with two O-rings, thick and thin, and piece of BluTack. You did a dry assembly with the BluTack in place, measured how thinly it was compressed, and fitted the right (ie, correct) O-ring. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 modern ideas of filter positions , anti drains and much closer tolerances just means on a modern engine the pressure wait on start up is not an audible clatter go back to the 50s and many never had a filter to charge up. we know they do this so long as left a few seconds on idle its never going to wreck a crank its just theres a paranoidal idea you have to fix it ,when in reality its not the most significant problem we encounter head gaskets , manifolds .carbatooties, trunions and much more fill the forums with questions and problems more than the designed odd start up rattle just some thoughts while the suns out Pete 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 59 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: modern ideas of filter positions , anti drains and much closer tolerances just means on a modern engine the pressure wait on start up is not an audible clatter go back to the 50s and many never had a filter to charge up. we know they do this so long as left a few seconds on idle its never going to wreck a crank The problem is that many of these engines were never designed to last fifty or sixty years, so squeezing a few more miles out of them by looking after them now is a big bonus. I was offered two very cheap luxury cars in the last month - none older than 2009 - by a friend in the trade but as one had 99000 miles and the other 140000 miles I avoided them like the plague; he was amazed as, in his opinion, both (Jaguars) will go on for years yet. I'm still of the 1960s / 70s mindset that a car with more than 80000 miles is done, because back in those days - they were. One classic quote I always remember about a car is a seller being asked: "does she use much oil?" to which he replied: "she would use plenty - if she could get it!" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 The design of the post war Standard push rod OHV engines was in the early 1950's. These replaced the side valve type in use by Standards before and just after WW2. But were closer to the pre-war than the modern designs. Hence both Pete's and Colin's points. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Thing is in the old days the bodywork was usually long gone before the engine so there wasnt much point in make longer lasting engines..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 I removed the Mocal spin on conversion from my GT6 and reverted to the original canister - it was simply too much hassle trying to get the filter between the chassis rail, oil pressure switch and oil pressure relief valve. Ended up having to partially remove the conversion plate each time. The oil comes up to pressure rapidly with the original design on mine and only rattles if you Rev it prematurely. If I was paranoid I could churn the engine on the starter with no choke to circulate the oil before every cold start up, but I'm not! For the GT6 it makes more sense to have the adaptor plate attached to a couple of pipes to allow the remote location of the filter and looking through the (now quite aged) Haynes restoration manual these used to be available, but I've not managed to find one. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 I bought that book back in the early 1990s and even then I never saw one other than that in the photo. I've run a quick google search for 'remote oil filter conversion' and there are hundreds, it seems to be just a case of making up a kit using the available components of oil take-off, pipes and remote canister connector. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted July 25, 2019 Report Share Posted July 25, 2019 Hi, Amisol makes a good GT6 remote oil filter housing, only removed mine as needed space for something else. Cheers, Iain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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