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Roadside Breakdowns


Tanky

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Hello all,

As you are all aware, I am new to classic cars and mechanics. Having bought my Spit and driven it nervously to a few events last year, with a couple of heart stopping "Oh No" moments, with no idea how to diagnose problems or what to check when pulling over, I thought.....there must be a few "New Comer's" in my position and what would be useful to me and others in a similar position when this happens. So I thought what would be useful would be a little A5 laminated pamphlet that I could pull out of my glove box. So I scoured the internet forums and videos and have put this little ditty together. (see attached) Now, I ask all knowing Triumpher's to have a look, see what you think and add any suggestions, with the proviso, that it has to be about the most common problems encountered at the roadside. It cannot be hugely technical nor need any specialist tools other than what one would (as a novice) carry as a little tool kit. Suggestions for a tool kit welcome! But again if I would only need a whatsitmajobthingy once every five leap years then...... lets talk Very Basic.

Anyway neck on the block, ready for the " oh dear, what a moron" at my lack of knowledge and skills....

 

 

Roadside Breakdowns.docx

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Your list assumes you know something about what you are doing.

In the mean time you need AA/RAC type cover for break down and recovery

You need a mobile phone.

It would be nice to spend some time with the car to understand what is actually happening so that when it stops you have a clue.

 

Roger

 

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Mr T,

Good list! I would include the fuse box, a poor design and can produce some very odd faults while appearing to be physically OK.

The connectors either side of the fuse are only electrically connected together by the ends of the fuse. So you can get the fault that one end of the fuse is gripped, but only one connector at the other end is touching. It leads to some head scratching faults.

Once you know about it you take out the fuses and pinch the connectors together and put the fuses back. Then you go look at the “Replacing the fuse box with a modern blade fuse box” threads on here. 😆

Doug

 

 

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23 minutes ago, poppyman said:

We all have our cross to bear Charlie, my super dooper computer won't open your list

It's a docx file, so you need at least Word 2007 (plus update add-on pack) or 2013 to open it.

Or you can install LibreOffice, for free, and open it with that.

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OK Mr T's list, but here it is:

Roadside Breakdowns

Visual Checks:
Battery Terminals
Earthing Strap
HT Lead
In Line Fuel Filter
Fuel Hoses
Coil Wiring (Esp. Coil to Dizzy)


Ignition
Battery (check voltage)
Electronic Ignition
Remove Dizzy Cap
•    Turn engine over to check for spark
•    Remove King Lead from dizzy cap and hold end to rocker cover- turn engine over- spark proves condenser and coil working correctly
•    If electricity is flowing but no spark- this means condenser is not working 
•    Check condenser is properly attached to Dizzy and properly earthed before replacing
•    Replace condenser
If you have a spark from the King Lead this means electricity is flowing to the distributor
•    Check the condition of the Rotor Arm and replace if necessary 
•    Put the Dizzy cap on and take a spark plug out and lay it on top of the rocker cover- turn engine over if there is a spark plug is fine- check all plugs replace if no spark


Fuel
Check the Fuel Filter for petrol and debris
•    Crank the engine over-Fuel should pulse through the filter not wash backwards and forwards
•    If ‘washing’ this means that the valve in the fuel pump is stuck- tap lightly to unstick- if no difference-replace fuel pump

Remove pipe that supplies fuel going to carbs
•    Turn ignition on- if fuel is being delivered to carbs you should see a strong fuel pumping flow
•    If fuel is going to the carbs-it is either fuel starvation or fuel flooding the carbs
•    The needle valve may be stuck- tap the carbs lightly to free the needles
•    If flooded-there will be a strong smell of fuel and vapour emanating
•    Do not keep cranking the engine if a strong smell of fuel or vapour emanating
•    Take the plugs out and let them dry out for a few minutes
•    Crank the engine over with the plugs out and the throttle held wide open-this will push the vapour out of the engine through the spark plug holes.
•    Replace plugs and turn over the engine

 

We used to have stuff like this on the old site, we should have somewhere to keep this.

Doug
 

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Thanks Doug , that is a useful thing for a novice to have in their toolkit Charlie :) The main thing with yourself is accepting you are a novice.....(well done for that) it is better than going in feet first and breaking everything :(  Take it slowly and most things will become apparent. And don't be afraid to ask. Don't do what i did at weekend and leave your toolkit at home...... o/s/rear indicator packed up on the way to a meet. Highly embarassing to ask one of the other guy's for a screwdriver. I had everything out of the boot for rustproofing, toolkit left behind..... Aaargh!!

Tony.  

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May be worth having a note about when disconnection the carb fuel line to be careful about fuel getting on to a hot exhaust pipe.

A very good list.

The list assume an engine stoppage. What about a  noise list relate to gearbox / clutch. rubbling rear overbearing, May be this list can be aimed at -  can you get home with the problem.

Stuck starter motor, solenoid clicking, engine not turning over, hit stated motor with hammer.

Alternator failure resulting in a flat battery.

Loose drive belt.

Graham

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, poppyman said:

Don't do what i did at weekend and leave your toolkit at home......

I once turned up at the start of a navigational scatter with no tools in the car... and a burst hose. It was a bit embarrassing to have to borrow a screwdriver and a sharp knife (to shorten the existing hose as there were no replacements to hand).

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1 hour ago, NonMember said:

I once turned up at the start of a navigational scatter with no tools in the car... and a burst hose. It was a bit embarrassing to have to borrow a screwdriver and a sharp knife (to shorten the existing hose as there were no replacements to hand).

At least that makes two of us...... I don't feel as daft now :) 

Tony.

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Good morning all,

I was talking to my sons, both in their 20's about classic cars, both of whom love my spit. I asked them if they would be interested in having a classic and low and behold they both said they would love one, but were scared to drive one incase it broke down and they didn't know what to do to get it going again.... Ha, they are definitely my sons!

Thanks for the advice....Great! 

1. Alternator- I didn't quite understand. How would I know if the alternator is not working? If the battery is flat it's the alternator? or is it a loose belt? How would I check the Alternator?

2. Stuck starter motor- What symptoms? Is it the solenoid sticking? How would I check the starter motor? How would I check the solenoid?

3. Fuses- good one Doug I'll add that to the list....

Clutch, gearbox and brakes are my next suggestions for my wee book.....

Thoughts anyone

Cheers

Charlie

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screwdrivers, pliers,  a couple of spanners some tyraps and length of wire 

may spare bulbs  with these  you can fix most simple breakdowns anything more serious ,just ring for recovery 

youre in your best shirt its raining , what are you going to strip down and ponder over at the roadside??

cant check alternator without a volt meter or get aldi lidl tester when on sale

stuck stater ..it wont crank , so bump start   if locked in ring gear , engage 4th and push car back forth.to free the stuck pinion

gearbox .....recovery   sort at home 

brakes .....apart from a low level top up or more serious  pressure build up,  crack a nipple .  or  recovery 

Pete

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Check lists work for trained and experienced crews, as shown by any airline, hospital operating theatre or NASA, not least on the Apollo 13 misison.    But they only work if you have been through them many times before, building on previous experience.     And that should be 'hands-on' experience.

Anyone like Tanky should find out if their local College does car maintenance courses.    They won't be free, but not a fortune - £120-180 for a six to ten week course of weekly evenings.     They should get you hands-on onto real cars, not classics probably, but the principles are the same, and if your instructors know you are into classics they will take that into account.

Courses specifically for classics are fewer, but they are there: https://www.classiccarsgarages.com/blog/selection-best-classic-car-restoration-courses     The Bicester one is intensive in only two days!

Plus, if you can find a local fan, who will help you learn, there is nothing like getting stuck in and doing your own car in your own garage!

Good luck!

John

PS Greasy hands.    Puts many off.  Wear good quality vinyl or nitryl  gloves, and they don't get greasy!      I wear them under a pair of mechnics fingerless gloves.

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Ah! Ha! Candidates for Twiddle Day 4! An event run by Pete and Ray at HQ to show us all how it’s done.

May I recommend a Swiss Army pen knife? Always in my pocket, except when I’m using it. And that time I went to court, went through a metal detector and they took it off me! 

Doug

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Brilliant idea.  Would add that I feel it is essential to have some sort of hazard warning device.  Either wired in or even a beacon to shove on the top of the car in the event of a breakdown.  The thought of breaking down on a so called smart motorway with my classics scares the ---- out of me.  Particularly after seeing the recent Panorama documentary.  No way will I take my Herald on a Motorway as totally original running gear and therefore not speedy enough for long high speed runs.  Many of our earlier cars do not have any hazards fitted.  Club Shop can supply good easy to mount switches.

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Good idea Tanky. Such a list will provide those of us lesser experienced individuals with a good diagnostic methodology that comes as second nature to those long term classic owners.

I’ve only had my GT6 for 5 years but have gone through it as a novice, engine out, sealing block, new fuse box, rationalised old dud wiring, etc. I’ve really enjoyed it and even though I worried on many occasions a slow logical approach and many daft questions to the forum increased my knowledge no end. One point to make is, does everything I’ve done make me knowledgeable, no, just more confident and know where to get information. I’d still have to go to the manuals to effect anything other than a bulb change.

You can’t beat experience and only repeating tasks makes them second nature. Uncle Pete is right, anything other that a pipe, wire, fuse it will be best to call assistance.

This forum has a wealth of experience so if you take the plunge and go deeper into the mechanics they WILL help you, even though you have to decipher relevant information from the usual thread drift.

Adrian

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On 04/03/2020 at 11:55, Sue Franklin said:

Brilliant idea.  Would add that I feel it is essential to have some sort of hazard warning device.  Either wired in or even a beacon to shove on the top of the car in the event of a breakdown.  The thought of breaking down on a so called smart motorway with my classics scares the ---- out of me.  Particularly after seeing the recent Panorama documentary.  No way will I take my Herald on a Motorway as totally original running gear and therefore not speedy enough for long high speed runs.  Many of our earlier cars do not have any hazards fitted.  Club Shop can supply good easy to mount switches.

Agree with Hazards having been caught out on the M7 in Ireland , though then purchased the Hazard Switch from the Club Shop and the experience was not good at all , the switch kept falling to pieces and the contact was intermittent and then purchased from EBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-KIT-CAR-Hazard-Warning-Light-Switch-KIT-COMPLETE-with-bracket/303032562097.   This one is much cheaper and works fine plus installation is easier 

 I have been in touch with the ClubShop 

Paul 

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On 03/03/2020 at 16:53, RogerH said:

You need a mobile phone.

Yes, and I would also add a powerbank in case you cant charge your phone in the car (if you have to disconnect the battery due to smoke etc). This forum works fine also in my mobile phone and there are some knowledgeable chaps here with thousands of posts who usually give excellent advice within minutes 👍 I also make sure that I have ”important emergency numbers” saved in my contacts

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