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Steering Rack Service


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Hi,

I found yesterday that the gaiters on my steering rack are shot and will need to replaced. This is a one job I’ve never done and before I decide how best to proceed (e.g. should I do it myself or take it to a professional etc.) I thought I’d ask the mighty collective of all things Triumph for any advice and guidance they may be prepared to offer. One simple kick-off question I have is, should racks be repaired these days of just replaced with new?
 

As ever, thanks in advance.

Paul

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Fairly straightforward to replace teh gaiters.

Tricky part is removing the track rod ends, but you can do the job without taking the TRE off the vertical link but just unscrewing the steering rod out from it. But carefully mark teh position so it all goes back exactly the same so you don't need to check teh tracking.

Buy quality gaiters, the "rounded" style are way better than the "pointy" type.

And yes, getting the gaiter over the inner balljoint is a faff on the small side.

 

As to new racks, if teh whole rack is worn, new is best. Otherwise the inner balljoints can be shimmed, and even the pinnion/rack adjusted. The long-term issues are that te racks are worn, so adjust to be correct in "straight ahead" and they go too tight either side. Most racks sold by suppliers are reconditioned, many not terribly well.  

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3 hours ago, Paulfc said:

Thanks both. Clive, what’s the “test” to establish if the rack is worn?
 

Thanks.

I stand next to the car, bonnet up, and wiggle the steering wheel side to side, see if it transfers to the wheels.

If there is an issue, the first thing to look at more carefully is the lower column joint, OE is a disc type affair (Do not, under any circumstances, buy  a replacement unless genuine OE made by Stanpart. Modern versions are hopeless with very short lifespan. Best bet is this https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=145377RM . I ought one after a brand new similar one, supplier I think was one of the major suppliers, had more play than the old one I took off. The Witor version is excellent)

Next, grab the track rods and see if you can move then against the rack. There should be no play. If there is, teh shimming procedure is in the WSM, a large spanner is required and teh nuts are TIGHT. 

Lastly, rack, if you can turn the column, and all else is good, there may be a little play in teh actual rack. You can adjst this, again WSM for details. BUT teh racks wear in the centre, so be careful not to overtighten as the sides will be unworn. If that makes sense. 

Essentially, most issues are the lower column joint or ball joints. Balljoints accessible when the gaiters are off.

 

HTH!

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red gt6 wsm shows as 4 1/4 turns for 6cyl cars 

the 6 cyl rack had a small groove machined in the pinion splines to identify the diference between 6 and 4 cyl rack ratios

with a high ratio rack do they supply shreaded wheat to go with it  ???  or  do you avoid parking a 6cyl car with ground anchor 

Pete

 

 

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