Gully Posted November 19, 2020 Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 My GT6 has a 3.63 diff built into a 6 bolt case. When I first had it rebuilt by a local firm (from the 3.27 original ratio) it was lousy, with apparently no effort to set the pre-load and the quality of the supposed 'good used' pinion somewhat questionable - see below! I then had it rebuilt through Robsport and whilst it wasn't cheap, I've had no issues since - quiet and leak-free. Their go-to chap is more used to Stag diffs, but clearly understands Triumphs. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 19, 2020 Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 there are some good clues about tooth marking the rights wrongs and what to do to correct it in most Triumph workshop manuals the daft thing is a hypoid having an offset contact has a much longer tooth contact and is designed to be quieter than a inline bevel pinion maybe triumph thought otherwise Ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted November 19, 2020 Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 4 hours ago, Gully said: I then had it rebuilt through Robsport and whilst it wasn't cheap, I've had no issues since - quiet and leak-free. Their go-to chap is more used to Stag diffs, but clearly understands Triumphs. Gully So come on Gully, Don't keep us in suspense ! - Who do Robsport use - one man band or larger company ? Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted November 19, 2020 Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 1 hour ago, trigolf said: So come on Gully, Don't keep us in suspense ! - Who do Robsport use - one man band or larger company ? Gav I understand it's a one-man band - certainly seemed to be the case as they had to check when he had a slot to fit my diff in. I don't know who, though. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveweblin Posted November 19, 2020 Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 Tony Lindsay Dean used to supply diffs. I think is now winding down. Have seen that he is selling off some stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted November 20, 2020 Report Share Posted November 20, 2020 18 hours ago, steveweblin said: Tony Lindsay Dean used to supply diffs. I think is now winding down. Have seen that he is selling off some stock There seems to be few transmission companies that recondition classic diffs (of all types) etc. Has anyone ever used Hardy Engineering Transmissions in Leatherhead to rebuild a Triumph diif successfully ( i.e. quiet)? I see they give a 12 month warranty on all jobs. Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 13:42, trigolf said: There seems to be few transmission companies that recondition classic diffs (of all types) etc. Has anyone ever used Hardy Engineering Transmissions in Leatherhead to rebuild a Triumph diif successfully ( i.e. quiet)? I see they give a 12 month warranty on all jobs. Gav Judging by the lack of comments - I take it that no one has used them in recent times ? They seem to get good testamonials from various classic owners with diff issues... Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 I'm getting 2Spec in Coventry to build a strengthened 3.27 final drive with helical gear LSD for my 2.5 litre GT6. Paul Hughes at 2Spec is s Triumph enthusiast. He's also building me an 1850 Dolomite gearbox in a 3 rail casing with J-type overdrive, which (I hope) will fit easily in the GT6 and cope with the torque of the 2.5 engine. www.2specgroup.co.uk Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 On 23/11/2020 at 20:29, Nigel Clark said: I'm getting 2Spec in Coventry to build a strengthened 3.27 final drive with helical gear LSD for my 2.5 litre GT6. Paul Hughes at 2Spec is s Triumph enthusiast. He's also building me an 1850 Dolomite gearbox in a 3 rail casing with J-type overdrive, which (I hope) will fit easily in the GT6 and cope with the torque of the 2.5 engine. www.2specgroup.co.uk Nigel That's interesting Nigel. Let us know how you get on ! Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 7 hours ago, trigolf said: That's interesting Nigel. Let us know how you get on ! Gav Will do! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 13:42, trigolf said: There seems to be few transmission companies that recondition classic diffs (of all types) etc. Has anyone ever used Hardy Engineering Transmissions in Leatherhead to rebuild a Triumph diif successfully ( i.e. quiet)? I see they give a 12 month warranty on all jobs. Gav Hi Gav, I have used them to rebuild a TR4A gearbox and Overdrive that worked well afterwards. I have not had a Diff rebuilt. If you use them and you are in a rush for the diff to be returned tell them up front. Otherwise it sits in a queue - they can get quite busy. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 15 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Gav, I have used them to rebuild a TR4A gearbox and Overdrive that worked well afterwards. I have not had a Diff rebuilt. If you use them and you are in a rush for the diff to be returned tell them up front. Otherwise it sits in a queue - they can get quite busy. Roger Ok, thanks for the info Roger. I'm surprised that no members in the Greater London area seemed to have used them, as they have been around for a long time. Courier costs are expensive when you have to ship a diff from the South coast,where I am ! Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted November 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 I used Hardy's years ago when Dave was still alive, as we both had Healey 3000s and Dave was a very successful racer of his. Good company but haven't dealt with them for years. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 6 hours ago, trigolf said: Ok, thanks for the info Roger. I'm surprised that no members in the Greater London area seemed to have used them, as they have been around for a long time. Courier costs are expensive when you have to ship a diff from the South coast,where I am ! Gav Hi Gav, a chap on the TR Reg forum had his TR6 diff rebuilt here DIFF. The result was perfect. Is Westbury too far form the South Coast Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted November 29, 2020 Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 be ware of re building, or getting olde diffs re built can have the best possible contact patterns, drive an coast, an it,ll whine or howl can ev a contact pattern miles off on drive, but ok on coast an its fine coast generally dont get much stik, only in over run or reverse generally if the bearing pree loads, sides an pin ones, are slack then it,ll whine wid load,or on overun,or both as load will shift the contact areas, moer so if diff worn. a 1 thou shim on a criticly worn cw will move pattern alot in some instances Butt, if it whines on drive an goes quiet under load, then it needs either pin ajusted, or cw adjusted, or both. as movement has shifted contact to a quieter spot. Non of which can really be determined with any certainty untill its in car. even when try,n t,run a diff under load on yer bench, ye just cannae get the loadings that happen on the road. patterns are a guide only on olde units { some new,ns too ive found }, real life shows ye this. So just cos its noisey, dont mean folk aint tried their best Ive spent 30+ odd hours on some, a thou here, or there, , diff hights, diff side gaps all to ne good at all and cw/p look ok, but they worn oot, so best for banger race,n or a weigh in. some diffs, are v v quiet wid a 20+ play in mesh { OE 3-4 thou } but they clonk on tek up an over run Ive had brand new CW/Ps sent t,me t,re build, and just cannot get a same pattern on all teeth some are near bottom, some are near middle,some are near top, same too for the coast an CW runs true, so ne run oot, what ye doo wid them , send em back, get another, its same, spend another full week at it, still noisey, show folk the contact patterns, all owa the spot { t,get a different in pin height, then its a full diff strip doon, t,get a side thrust, a little easier, just tek the CW oot, but then ye gotta split the bearings, on a tr type, its a pain } also, what looks good wid nee load, is not same as with load an cant say for certain that a 2 shim will be ok to put it where it should be as on the other ye just did, cos in reality it wont show same contack patch due to wear on both cw/p that really cant be seen wid yer eyes. some can be done in 1/2 hour, and they look fooked some look good and are impossible t,get right so dont always blame the bloke trying his best if he,s spent a full week onit, for little money as would any body on here work 30+hours , stink,n of oil, dutty finger nails an hands for a week on a diff for 40-80£ wage, I spend it, as its a hobby M 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 well said Marcus Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 11 hours ago, GT6M said: be ware of re building, or getting olde diffs re built can have the best possible contact patterns, drive an coast, an it,ll whine or howl can ev a contact pattern miles off on drive, but ok on coast an its fine coast generally dont get much stik, only in over run or reverse generally if the bearing pree loads, sides an pin ones, are slack then it,ll whine wid load,or on overun,or both as load will shift the contact areas, moer so if diff worn. a 1 thou shim on a criticly worn cw will move pattern alot in some instances Butt, if it whines on drive an goes quiet under load, then it needs either pin ajusted, or cw adjusted, or both. as movement has shifted contact to a quieter spot. Non of which can really be determined with any certainty untill its in car. even when try,n t,run a diff under load on yer bench, ye just cannae get the loadings that happen on the road. patterns are a guide only on olde units { some new,ns too ive found }, real life shows ye this. So just cos its noisey, dont mean folk aint tried their best Ive spent 30+ odd hours on some, a thou here, or there, , diff hights, diff side gaps all to ne good at all and cw/p look ok, but they worn oot, so best for banger race,n or a weigh in. some diffs, are v v quiet wid a 20+ play in mesh { OE 3-4 thou } but they clonk on tek up an over run Ive had brand new CW/Ps sent t,me t,re build, and just cannot get a same pattern on all teeth some are near bottom, some are near middle,some are near top, same too for the coast an CW runs true, so ne run oot, what ye doo wid them , send em back, get another, its same, spend another full week at it, still noisey, show folk the contact patterns, all owa the spot { t,get a different in pin height, then its a full diff strip doon, t,get a side thrust, a little easier, just tek the CW oot, but then ye gotta split the bearings, on a tr type, its a pain } also, what looks good wid nee load, is not same as with load an cant say for certain that a 2 shim will be ok to put it where it should be as on the other ye just did, cos in reality it wont show same contack patch due to wear on both cw/p that really cant be seen wid yer eyes. some can be done in 1/2 hour, and they look fooked some look good and are impossible t,get right so dont always blame the bloke trying his best if he,s spent a full week onit, for little money as would any body on here work 30+hours , stink,n of oil, dutty finger nails an hands for a week on a diff for 40-80£ wage, I spend it, as its a hobby M Marcus, do you have or know of a source of the curved shims? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 those being the thrusts for the planet gear end float ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 39 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: those being the thrusts for the planet gear end float ??? Pete I don't know😬 My friend does a few diffs, but can't find the curved shims anywhere, and has just run out of reclaimed ones. There must be supply out there, somebody said a ford shim looked similar, but I have no idea. If anybody has a bright idea etc, it would be handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 there must be something close enough , these are the only semi spherical shim/thrusts all others are flat Im suprised there is wear as only slow moving unless you give it the beans on ice and get high speed one wheel spin # in normal drives they dont turn much unless you go nuts on the swindon or hemel magic roundabouts !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 4 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: there must be something close enough , these are the only semi spherical shim/thrusts all others are flat Im suprised there is wear as only slow moving unless you give it the beans on ice and get high speed one wheel spin # in normal drives they dont turn much unless you go nuts on the swindon or hemel magic roundabouts !!! Pete Last one was gone, others paper thin. Some not much wear. Odd really. Unless they were worn from one worn/one new tyres, that sort of thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 but thats still slow speed rotation of the planets, theres nothing odd as most used a coppr /bronzed thrusts let blame GL5 oils Ha Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 17 hours ago, GT6M said: some can be done in 1/2 hour, and they look fooked some look good and are impossible t,get right so dont always blame the bloke trying his best if he,s spent a full week onit, for little money as would any body on here work 30+hours , stink,n of oil, dutty finger nails an hands for a week on a diff for 40-80£ wage, I spend it, as its a hobby M I can't disagree either Marcus. As already stated, all the remaining core stock has already been rebuilt several times. So, I struggle to understand what the point is of getting new C/W+P remanufactured, if not ALL the correct shims are available NEW - even to reconditioners, what real hope have they got to produce a quality item ? Surely someone has got a solution to this problem.... Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 1 hour ago, trigolf said: Surely someone has got a solution to this problem.... Gav I fitted a subaru diff in my spitfire. A bit extreme, but impossible to break. I have tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 New shims are available, CW sells em, BUTT mostly for TR/Sals type they 2-4 times as thick as the GT/Spitty types butt, worn oot TR shims, are a good fit but, need a good few, as they not all same size whenst worn like the yans on oor cars, always 1 will wear oor faster than the other, some times there npwt thea, esp if its a fibre type niva iva use thee,s for any re builb, they be gone prity quick and the shims aint got be a slack fit, regardless of what the book says the bearing cups aint smoothe, its ridged, so shim sits on high bit efta a wee while its bedded in, an as slack as a laydee of the nights money box, they need tapped into spot and t,mek em last a bit, drill 4 wee wols in em t,get moer oil into em think rimmers an the other spots sell em failing that, get yer self some PB sheet an mek yer own ye got the moulds on the diff yer use,n all thats needed is a bigg bolt an a nut put shim between carrier an gear, an tighten up best if its heated first, as it,ll mek it easier t,bend. med loads this way, so simples Keep saying it, but dont change yer oil yer ask,n for trouble should be changed at least yance a year, ep if yer no use,n it, or it,ll end up like thee,s pics M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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