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The best rotors available?


avivalasvegas

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I know on moderns I reckon discs every 50-60k, so about 2 sets of pads.

Spitfire has done 20K, the pads are about half worn, discs pristime still. Capri2.8i Mintex jobbies. Rears are MGF pagid discs and pads, those pads did need replacing though, but discs again still perfect.

And yes, after a track session or a lot of braking I try to avoid leaving any brakes on until it has all cooled down. 

In 2019, seems a lifetime ago, we were in California living the dream with a V8 Mustang. Somewhere near Death Valley there were some serious mountains but dead straight roads. On the descent the brakes started to suffer a lot of vibration. It was about 10 miles of downhill, by the bottom I was getting pretty worried. However, once the brakes had cooled they were OK. But being a hire car no point in complaining about it. If it were my car, new discs would have gone on.

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I've to replace warped rear discs on a modern Mondeo, but that's probably due to misuse of handbrake: putting the handbrake on after heavy braking and leaving it on for a prolonged period. I've got to the stage now of parking the car overnight in gear only with no handbrake. Front brakes go due to heavy braking, say on coming up to traffic lights, then holding the car on the footbrake until the lights change.

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5 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Yes, I agree with NM.  Apart from my aberration when I tried the drilled and grooved my GT6 has only had 2 sets of discs in 75k miles.

What are you doing with them Dan?!! 

Chocolate discs :) mmmmm.

Doug

 

probably not enough use so they start to corrode, I find it is corrosion that means the swept area shrinks, not wear that kills them.

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7 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I thought it had a full MOT? The system is very tight over here, it wouldn't have got through with anything less than fully working brakes.

For normal road use go for standard discs, which you'll find at a variety of prices, and standard pads work well enough for me.

I don't think they would fail an MOT as the rollers turn so slow. If they were really bad the needles on an old analogue tester may be seen wavering up and down slightly. Less likely on a newer digital one.

 

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1 hour ago, thescrapman said:

I don't think they would fail an MOT as the rollers turn so slow. If they were really bad the needles on an old analogue tester may be seen wavering up and down slightly. Less likely on a newer digital one.

 

I was going by the 'one seized caliper and one seized cylinder' post. The MOT readout should give the percentage braking when the vehicle was tested.

Warped discs on the other hand might even make the car brake even better...

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9 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I thought it had a full MOT? The system is very tight over here, it wouldn't have got through with anything less than fully working brakes.

For normal road use go for standard discs, which you'll find at a variety of prices, and standard pads work well enough for me.

It did after everything was sorted. Passed with no advisories and only a squeaky caliper wobble. Hence the need to replace the Rotors.

These are the Koni shocks I've shortlisted for when the next ebay discount voucher arrives.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Koni-Classic-Red-Front-Shock-Absorber-Triumph-GT6-Mk2-69-70/122226896219?hash=item1c754a6d5b:g:7pEAAOSwo4pYKuEo

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club shop sell GAZ adjustables   at 180 pair 

for normal driving you dont need adjustables to get any ride quality they normally get set to position 1  so whats the point 

having had them and constantly doing up a bit down a bit , they were just a PITA  there was no bump and rebound setting that matched any comfort 

pete being a dinosaur   

   well what you need is a chassis dyno to measure whats going on   way beyond going for a fast dash round the lanes 

 

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

club shop sell GAZ adjustables   at 180 pair 

for normal driving you dont need adjustables to get any ride quality they normally get set to position 1  so whats the point 

having had them and constantly doing up a bit down a bit , they were just a PITA  there was no bump and rebound setting that matched any comfort 

pete being a dinosaur   

   well what you need is a chassis dyno to measure whats going on   way beyond going for a fast dash round the lanes 

 

Pete, difference between Koni and Gaz is night and day, trust me on that. The fact Gaz hace 20? clicks of adjustment, but are solid after 5 is the first indicator about product design.

A friend has a suspension business, selling largely to the pickup trucks sector and so on. But branching out a bit. He won't sell adjustables as most people are clueless and just make a car handle worse than from the factory. However, he wants to "borrow" our mk2 MX5 as he reckons that is a market worth exploring, and ours is an unmolested low mileage example.

And you may ask what shocks does he have on his Stag? Koni..... (market too small to make shocks for Triumphs, though he is occasionally tempted)

 

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12 minutes ago, clive said:

The fact Gaz hace 20? clicks of adjustment, but are solid after 5 is the first indicator about product design.

Clive is spot-on.

In fact GAZ should only have clicks 1 to 5, as anything above 4 becomes absolutely rock solid and the driving experience is dreadful. 

I had this issue on the Vitesse and the click is now set at 3.

I like GAZ shocks but cannot understand why the company has this unusable number of click options.

The Daimler has SPAX, but then that is a totally different beast and in fact I fitted SPAX to the Sunbeam Alpine when I had it.

Never quite reached the dizzy heights of KONI but perhaps I will try them on something - it will not be the Saab as KONI do not make shocks for the model; whereas SPAX do.  

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10 minutes ago, clive said:

He won't sell adjustables as most people are clueless and just make a car handle worse than from the factory.

thats how i see it 

ive had Gaz and  Spax but would not ever commit £££s to give  such a rubbish result ever again ( not tried koni)

pete

 

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Back in my rallying days in the 70's  it was either Koni, Bilstein or Boge that was used by the top crews, not an adjustable in sight. They are just to hard and as soon as you hit a bump in the road in the wet you were in the scenery. Ok for tarmac circuit but not for our potholed roads.

Tony.

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1 hour ago, clive said:

He won't sell adjustables as most people are clueless and just make a car handle worse than from the factory.

That's because for many, the lower the car, or the harder the suspension, the better it drives; or to be honest: the better it looks, and sod the handling. A lot of owners have no idea of why they do it, only that others are doing it, so therefore they've no idea of what exactly they're trying to achieve.

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