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Air filter gaskets


cliff.b

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Changing my air filters with standard Spitfire 1500 airbox and it only had gaskets between the box and the carbs.

Just wondered if it should it also have gaskets between the filters and the box and are they supposed to be fitted dry or with some gasket sealant?

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I thought both, not just outer face - the diagram that Pete posted shows that doesn't it?  Or perhaps I misunderstand what Pete wrote. With no seal between the inside of the box and the filter, it would draw air from the box, not through the filter.  Just dry seal in my opinion.

Regards

Bob

 

 

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On my GT6 there are gaskets between the filter box and carbs only; I'd assume that the filters should seal adequately against the inside faces of the metal box - which is compressed around them by the mounting bolts - so it doesn't require any internal filters. I reckon it wouldn't cause any problems if you wanted to fit them inside the box too.

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1 hour ago, johny said:

just replaced mine (see other thread) and they each came with two gaskets for installation in the box. I suppose you have to buy the box to carb ones separately but mine were good enough for reuse...

Yep. Canleys GT6 parts drawing show gaskets each side of filters in the box plus box to carbs.

Gav

 

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the 1500 filters shown only have a opening on one side  the stromberg filters have opening both sides hence from whats shown ( without a filter to look at)

the 1500 is sealed on the outer face so no gasket , if its both sides  are mimiced then you would need to seal the outer against the airbox face or you may  suck unfiltered air through the gap  below 1500 filter  ...one hole   one gasket 

Pete

Picture of AIR FILTER 1500 MODELS(GFE1063)

 

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Many thanks for all opinions. As it turned out the gaskets were the least of my worries.

One of the mounting bolts wouldn't tighten down on reassembly as the carb thread was stripped, sorted with a longer bolt & nut for now.

After re-assembly I had a petrol leak from one of the short flexible pipes that takes fuel to the front carb. It looked ok superficially but on removing the covering the rubber was completely perished and obviously moving the connecting pipe had split it.

Replaced with new hose and then found that there was petrol dripping from the front carb now. Replaced that one as well but still dripping which I found was due to the connection from the float chamber to the jet being loose. Obviously that issue was already there and I hadn't noticed which probably explains the slight whiff of petrol. In hindsight, probably a good thing the first obvious leak led me to find it. Other fuel hoses look fine but will now be replaced ASAP.

As with various other things I have found on this car, I struggle to understand why so much attention to detail has been applied in some areas of its restoration but so little in others. I have come to the conclusion that it was completed by a different person, but irrelevant really as I bought it expecting work to be required.

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when you've torn all your hair out you will get to like the car   ha !

there has been some rubbish fuel hoses on open market places   

the gold std is gates barricade  and thats had some supply hic ups

club shop sell it when its available 

much sold behind the counters of some factors is just short life junk

hopefully you have read on here the problems of rubber slivers   these get cut off the inside of junk hose when pushed onto the metal pipework

these little sods can play havoc with the float needle valves by blocking the small inlet or jamming the needle to ake more floods 

Pete

 

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1 minute ago, Badwolf said:

is Barricade as prone to slivers as other stuff, and is there a practical way to avoid them...apart from don't fiddle with the pipes (I know, leaving myself open to more ridicule!!)

Just cut the hose properly; if you saw with a hacksaw or repeated cuts with a knife you'll end up with slivers. A very sharp long bladed knife which will cut through in one pass makes for a much cleaner cut. Lubricate the ends of the metal pipes with Vaseline or the like before pushing the pipes on - this prevents damage when being pushed onto a dry pipe which agai shaves small parts of the pipe off.

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we never had them in the past i put it all down to the state of the rubber 

barricade is a tough hose material  and i think is better but Colins 

clues should eradicate the little sods 

dont let Doug know about the vaseline   he gets all excited 

Pete

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It’s pushing the pipes into the rubber that cause the slivers. So the less sections of pipe and rubber the less chance of slivers. I’ve replaced the entire run between pump and carbs with one section of rubber. 

Uncle Pete told me that, I think he wanted me to try it to see if it worked. It seems to, although I did have some backfires recently which I’m investigating today. Is KY jelly as good as Vaseline? Answers on this or the “other” site. 😆

Doug

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4 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

. Is KY jelly as good as Vaseline? Answers on this or the “other” site. 😆

Doug

There is an extremely "Non P-C" joke about that, which would probably get me barred for life in to-days "snowflake" world. We though it funny. but then we was all Matelots. which just about covers it.

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yes less connections equates to better reliability even with KY ingress 

and rubber does not take on as much heat as metal pipework , 

dont like braided hoses you cant tell when its stuffed and most fuelling snags come from crap rubber hoses 

stick to professional quality hoses not chink rubber marked as R9 or other nasties 

the stuff in a blister pack at the local parts centre is generally   ........rubbish  

Pete

 

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52 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

stick to professional quality hoses not chink rubber marked as R9 or other nasties 

the stuff in a blister pack at the local parts centre is generally   ........rubbish  

Pete

I really don't understand why so many people seem to buy the stuff from the bay, I just popped into my local car spares place, a proper one, with a piece of my old one the checked the diameter and cut the length off a roll. 

Ok, so buying certain that can be difficult to find of very expensive on the bay is fine but with the poor reputation for lots of stuff I try to use it as little as possible. I know some items from the big suppliers may not be any better either . .

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2 hours ago, Chris A said:

I really don't understand why so many people seem to buy the stuff from the bay, I just popped into my local car spares place, a proper one, with a piece of my old one the checked the diameter and cut the length off a roll. 

Same here; my local guys know it needs to be ethanol-proof and sell me the modern stuff off the roll. 

I had a work colleague totally wound up one day when he asked why the petroleum-type stuff was called K Y Jelly; I told him it was an anagram of J Y Kelly who was the Irishman who invented it. He probably still believes that.

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Ok. Stupid question of the week coming up, following Colin's post about his local motor factors.

If modern fuel pipe is ethanol proof. Up to E10, then why are we all obsessed with using Gates fuel pipe. Surely any modern fuel pipe of the correct diameter should be ok. Even pipe lifted from a modem scrappy, should be ok for us. I am missing something here, sorry, long morning grocery shopping so please forgive...but please put my sad brain out of it's misery.

There is even Halfrauds....

https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/fixings/halfords-fuel-hose-8mm-hfh402-316463.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Tools>Fuses,+Electricals+and+Fixings>Fixings-_-Tools>Fuses,+Electricals+&+Fixings>Fixings-_-316463&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=62b447cf-331e-4fec-a47a-9985ff72d404&istItemId=wtwaaillr&istBid=tztx&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:298204272|agid:1283130141576085|tid:pla-4583795257284464|crid:|nw:s|rnd:|dvc:m|adp:|mt:e|loc:&msclkid=3a7fff3853b21c1aaf8e9fad6f14b32d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA - W - Workshop&utm_term=4583795257284464&utm_content=W - Garage Equipment - Fuses, Electricals %26 Fixings

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30 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

If modern fuel pipe is ethanol proof. Up to E10, then why are we all obsessed with using Gates fuel pipe. Surely any modern fuel pipe of the correct diameter should be ok. Even pipe lifted from a modem scrappy, should be ok for us. I am missing something here, sorry, long morning grocery shopping so please forgive...but please put my sad brain out of it's misery.

I would agree with you, most modern fuel pipe would be superior to our needs ( low pressure). From the numerous problems people have reported having I guess the pipe they have been sold isn't ethanol proof despite the sellers claims.

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I can see where B-W is coming from. Halfords, one would assume, supply for "modern" cars. All of which must run on E5 or E10?. Therefore one could reasonably expect the product to be "fit for purpose". ?

Almost the reverse of the situation where an O/E product would be Better?.

Pete

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I think a lot of issues come from urban myths that are based on something that happens initially or occasionally and there ever after gets spread as being a major problem...

Maybe even foreign powers are involved😵

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18 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I don't know the Chinese or Russian for rubber slivers... but have never had them. Maybe that's why?

橡胶条 or резиновые ленты any help? best of luck with the pronunciation.

Must really go and do something.

Regards

Paul

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