Jeffds1360 Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 They do look nice. I'll shop around hope the rails are suitable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 A convertible has less seat travel than a saloon, the hood well is the limiting factor, thicker and or taller seats will reduce the leg room. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Both Pete’s and mine are saloons , the Mgf seat bases need minor surgery and sit on 2 rails which then fit into the existing holes . Easy fit in a day Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 5 hours ago, Jeffds1360 said: They do look nice. I'll shop around hope the rails are suitable? Found the original post on Herald seat conversion from 2015 Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 I`ve committed to the MX seats, Well they came cheap at £50 the pair. Had them set up and the Belts work, all without fouling the hood frames. Trial fitted they have sufficient clearance, fore/aft/headroom (at least with no sound deadening and carpeting). and the driving position looks reasonable with the smaller steering wheel allowed by the fitting of PAS. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Interesting. Better price than the mgf too It will be interesting to see if you have full movement and access to the rear on completion I might change the thread title too ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 if you need access to the rear seat some can fit the orig runners , in open top its not a problem to have a head rest but in a tin top the higher back can restrict seat lift my MGF i did a simple latch and pivot to just tilt the back rest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Have a look at Ford KA Street car seats Jeff, a few people have started using them as they tilt and some are heated.....Also most are leather. Tony, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Thanks Tony, they are more my price range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Access to the rear seats works on the MX seats by flipping the backs forward, The runners go about 1" further back than the O/E seats. Not that the dog, (about the only potential occupant of the back seat) will care too much. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted May 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 LOOK...... Been trying for 8 months! Cost me 110 quid in tools !! but I still have them. Reet, off for a sunshine cruise about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 Congratulations, is the shaft bearing surface OK?. Now all you have to do is put it back together again, aren't classic cars fun. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 Is this where you say "Tah-dah" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted May 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 here is one I prepared earlier .... not even looked at it yet..... I fell over when it came apart ! I'm guessing my problem is in the trunnion needle roller bearing but, when my shoulder is better I will have a feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 on refit there is a daft dimension in the WSM but this just allows the nut to engage and tightening the hub nut pulls the bearing /backplate all into position for next week !!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted May 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 My nut split !!! I need a 510618 ? (a) ? Plus whichever bearing it is gasket? shaft taper looks fine, I can feel a roughness/lumpiness when rotating the axle in the trunnion, so......... pleased I got the bush puller as well as the hub puller 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 just put brg hsg in the vice and drift the shaft out well that was my way shame to mark the paint on the puller !!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 5/8 UNF half nut but a full nut might fit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291671119991 Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 11 hours ago, 68vitesse said: 5/8 UNF half nut but a full nut might fit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291671119991 Regards Paul Found out only last week I have one of each on the GT6; both shafts were restored by a specialist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted May 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Fortunately I have a spare on the other part used half shaft I bought. Which is the recommended nut then 1/2 or full? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 full nut i would say for a non rotorflex and unless you want a shaft to fracture in life dont swap sides keep n/s N/s and o/s O/s as they tend to have a torsional memory and swapping sides tries to unwind the history and a straight fracture will start and work its way across till it departs and disaster follows Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted May 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Ah ha. Reet then. My spare is n/s and the one I'm working on is o/s so I'll get a new one. They tend to come in 5's for 3 pound plus or about 1.50 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted May 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Just thought, your talking about the full shaft right? I am just swapping nuts the taper and shaft look ok and it is the ball bearing bearing that is shafted, needle bearing seems fine. How to I prise that out and who is best to supply one, plus the nut? There is no sign of a gasket, do I really need one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Should be a paper gasket between the hub and brake bake plate, I've always punched the seals and bearings out with a parallel punch. Main bearing RLS8 Needle B168 there is some poor quality stuff sold. Kit I bought at an auto jumble, shows all the parts, main bearing SKF Needle Torrington. Regards Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 sealer will work it to stop water getting in the bearing from splashes up the backplate you have the puller but as said i just put hsg in a vice and whack the shaft out Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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