electric cooling fan

[brian wesby]

I want to fit an electric fan to 1968 Mk1,  2ltr.  Rimmers do not offer a revotec specifically for this model

and the Kenlowe that is listed is no longer available. I'd prefer a frame mounting rather than flexible ties.

Anybody got any ideas of what is available or have successfully used?

Brian Wesby

[68vitesse]

On my Vitesse 2L Mk1 used a Revotec adjustable sensor in the bottom hose and a slimline 14in. fan fixed by brackets welded to the radiator shroud. Very tight, had to modify the fan shroud and relaced the fan fitting with a modified shaft collar to hold the crank pully in place to get room to change the fan belt.

Regards

Paul.

 

Edited July 23, 2021 by 68vitesse
Correct word

[Pete Lewis]

why do you need to go electric  ???

are there some underlying problems  ???

Pete

[ed.h]

You could consider Italian-made Spal fans:

http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-58/GT6-58.html

Ed

[Iain T]

I used the uprated 12" Spal fan with Davis Craig controller and temperature sensor. I fitted using some 1mm thick galv sheet brackets and brackets from T7 Design. 

Very good, takes a minute to drop temp 5 degrees. 

EP Services had to mod my water pump to give me clearance. 

Iain 

[A TR7 16V]

1 hour ago, ed.h said:

You could consider Italian-made Spal fans:

http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-58/GT6-58.html

Ed

I see you put the sensor in the correct part of the system, near the cooled output from the rad. That's to say, not on the input side, like all those that mistakenly think the fan is is being used to control the temperature of the engine. 

Graham

[Paul Amey]

I was thinking of fitting an electric fan as well. Demon Tweeks have a good range. I'm thinking for one thing they are safer, less chance of chopping your fingers off!

Also, it will save on wasted bhp. Not much granted, but every little helps.

[Iain T]

16 minutes ago, Paul Amey said:

I was thinking of fitting an electric fan as well

Look at the T7 Design website which gives all the dims and specs. 

Iain 

[Paul Amey]

Thanks Iain, I'll take a look at that.

[johny]

If youre going to fit a fan my thinking now is to try to fit as large in diameter as possible but it doesnt need to be powerful. In a Vitesse thats handy because more power means deeper and space is very limited.

I think even a cheapy Chinese one will do the job although of course their sealing and bearings will not be up to a lot of use in arduous conditions but are perfectly ok for a Sunday morning pootle.... 

[cliff.b]

On this subject, I went electric on my Spit earlier in the year, used a sensor in the bottom hose and managed to fit the control dial in the cockpit.

I set it at 85C and the fans came on when I slowed below about 30MPH, at which point the temp gauge still reported just below halfway.

However, I noticed that if driving steadily on dual carriageway my oil pressure was gradually dropping which concerned me.

So I got hold of a correct plastic fan, fitted it, leaving the electric stuff in place but they never came on again until I dropped the thermostat to 80C. This has caused them to come on briefly if stopping in traffic after driving at speed. My oil pressure is no longer dropping.

So this suggests to me that water returning to the engine was hovering around 85 Deg relying on fanless air flow but is under 80C with the mechanical plastic fan. Interestingly, there is no discernable difference in the temperature gauge which shows mostly just below normal.

I'm thinking that the heat from the higher returning water was mostly being absorbed by the oil so the water leaving the engine wasn't significantly hotter but the oil is, which is why the pressure was dropping. However, I would be interested in any other theories.

Obviously, I could have used just the electrics and set the thermostat lower, which may have done the job, but only because they would be on all the time which seemed a bit pointless.

[Pete Lewis]

there is a saying i often use  "if you use whats was designed it will do what it should "

triumph did far more testing and recording than any of us can achieve in order to accommodate all the running conditions you are going to experience 

whims  myths and must haves are best avoided and if the basic are sound  much of these wants   are unwanted 

the only gain with removing a engine fan is less noise and a marginal bit of power 

the headache of messing with electric is un warranted  hassle 

well the suns out   and im not queueing for fuel with all the lemmings 

Pete

[Ian Smith]

Vote #2 from here.  I'm interested in electric fans (I've never fitted one ) but I've also wondered if having a rad re-made with a deeper set of cores & fins might prove to be the answer to space issues. Plus, of course, the thermostat having a different, lower value.

I should add that not necessarily deeper, in terms of height, but thicker, front to back.

 

Cheers,

Ian.

[Iain T]

2 hours ago, cliff.b said:

So this suggests to me that water returning to the engine was hovering around 85 Deg relying on fanless air flow but is under 80C with the mechanical plastic fan. Interestingly, there is no discernable difference in the temperature gauge which shows mostly just below normal.

I suppose the only way to test the theory is by fitting an oil temperature gauge. 

Engine conditions, in lncluding oil and water galleries, vary so much. All I can say is cruising at 60-70 on a hot day my water temp gauge, fitted on the top hose, reads 85-90C therefore the return temperature should be lower. As stated above I have a Spal fan fitted. 

Iain 

[johny]

2 hours ago, Ian Smith said:

Vote #2 from here.  I'm interested in electric fans (I've never fitted one ) but I've also wondered if having a rad re-made with a deeper set of cores & fins might prove to be the answer to space issues. Plus, of course, the thermostat having a different, lower value.

I should add that not necessarily deeper, in terms of height, but thicker, front to back.

I think if your getting too hot on the move and your cooling system is as good as possible then a bigger radiator will help (better more frontal area than depth) but if this is happening when stationary or going slowly the problem is more likely to be airflow related which is where an electric fan can help.

If working correctly any thermostat will be fully open by the time the engine temperature is becoming excessive so unfortunately changing to a lower value one wont reduce overheating...

[Iain T]

2 hours ago, johny said:

if this is happening when stationary or going slowly the problem is more likely to be airflow related which

Or a partially blocked rad? 

[Chris A]

4 hours ago, Ian Smith said:

Plus, of course, the thermostat having a different, lower value.

You don't want a thermostat that opens at too low a temperature, you need the engine to be at its correct operating temperature so it runs efficiently.

[Pete Lewis]

yes UK and europe all 82c apart from  late 1500 at 88C 

running cool needs rich mixtures and here comes bore wash and ring wear 

pete

[johny]

53 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Or a partially blocked rad? 

I did say 'cooling system as good as possible'😄 Of course ALL other factors have to be discounted before disappearing down the cooling rabbit hole....

[Iain T]

5 minutes ago, johny said:

ALL other factors have to be discounted before disappearing down the cooling rabbit hole

That's why I have big ears....... 🐰

[Pete Lewis]

our cars have  pretty simple  basics     throwing the wallet at a myth is poor return for the money 

Pete

[Martin mon]

A few months ago I had carb tick over problems on my herald at temperature with electric fan fan fitted. Pete suggested the problem may be lack of air flow below the bonnet without a traditional fan on the water pump. I thought about it and went back to a 4 blade alloy fan and hey presto good airflow and the carb runs smooth. Appreciate it's not for everyone but going back to the original spec worked for me and weekend only driving. Thanks Pete 👍

[Iain T]

11 minutes ago, Martin mon said:

Appreciate it's not for everyone but going back to the original spec worked for me and weekend only driving.

Mmmm, try sitting in a motorway traffic jam for 2 hours at near 30C and you'll appreciate the electric fan. Fors and againsts but the electric fan works fo me and has taken away the worry factor. 

Iain 

[Paul Amey]

When I was rallying I had an auxilary fan just wired to a switch on the dash board . I use to switch it at the end of a stage  for better cooling.

[Peter Truman]

try sitting in a hot sun 35Cplus traffic jam with a Vitesse with an engine driven fan and trying to keep its temp down, you have to keep to throttle at around 1800rpm to do any good.

The situation is made worse as the mech fan is mounted on the crank the slowest moving part, at least the Spit & Herald have the fan mounted on the water pump pully which rotates faster ie smaller pully, I think from memory nearly 50% faster! Only one positive the Triumph engines are all cast iron and a lot more forgiving to overheating without blowing baskets.

If only the Vitesse had another inch radiator clearance to the engine fitting an electric fan would be soo much easier, Iain has done a great job with his Vitesse, many mods required. I keep looking at the elect fan and electric water pump to get the space reqd.