AlanT Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 Hello Experts (and anyone else who is stuck with this!). Bought new rack to shaft joint as part of my resto. 2 issues. A. Different lengths B. Absolutely no chance of getting a bolt through from one side to the other with the shaft in place. Bought from the leading supplier. Am I missing something? Shame to put the old one back as (as you can see) I’ve been super thorough on the rest. thanks Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 I would return it with photo ref the hole offset the length is less of a problem as the inner column is adjustable and you can compensate for small shaft length changes with the slip joint just below the outer column tube Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 It's just wrong. The Spit does not require a universal joint since there's no angle of inclination between the lower column and the input on the rack. Something like an XJ6, where the column is inclined to rack, needs a UJ. What you've been sold is just not a Spitfire part. Assuming the splines are ok I'd recondition the existing unit. Try Chris Witor at Suplaflex for replacement rubbers.Or failing that, Moss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 Is that the bolt supplied with the coupling? Should be 5/16" UNF... As Chris says it looks like another repo part that doesnt have the quality of the original or look like its designed to reduce the vibes like it either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 I'm with Chris - refurb your original. I did mine because the quality is much better. Mind you, I have a blast cabinet and an electroplating bucket... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Not sure if it is the same as a GT6 but from your photos v similar and some of us have been this way before and used a part from Chris Witor https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/7092-gt6-steering-rack-issue/?tab=comments#comment-97000 Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Thanks All, yes the bolts came with it. I’ll do as you say. best Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 ive seen a shaft with a reinforced hose and hose clips used to replace the UJ i mean yikes O dear dont do it I seem to recall the replacement modern uj was mid life fiesta based its nothing special but does need the holes in the right place is pretty fundamental Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 15 hours ago, AlanT said: Bought from the leading supplier So did I, fitted it and the splines were so bad it didn't grip the shaft. Plain dangerous! Fitted my old one as I didn't know about Chris Witors part. Send it back! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 23 hours ago, chrishawley said: It's just wrong. The Spit does not require a universal joint since there's no angle of inclination between the lower column and the input on the rack. Something like an XJ6, where the column is inclined to rack, needs a UJ. What you've been sold is just not a Spitfire part. Assuming the splines are ok I'd recondition the existing unit. Try Chris Witor at Suplaflex for replacement rubbers.Or failing that, Moss. The problem is the the (so called) correct part has a life expectancy measured in days. Very poor quality rubber. Reconditioning is a possibility using polybush parts. However, only the early type that use wire locking on the bolts is really suitable. Later type (as pictured in the first post) have the bolt ends crimped. To remove teh bolts you need to file/grind them, and re securing is tricky. New bolts do not seem to be available. The UJ type should last very well. I have used teh chris witor one from a t2000, quality is good. Cheap versions are variable at best. It was also sold as a gp4 escort steering joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 The one I fitted to the 13/60, came from Rimmer, and was a good fit. Albeit as yet un-tested in service. Added:- Photo Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 19, 2021 Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 On 16/08/2021 at 21:39, clive said: The problem is the the (so called) correct part has a life expectancy measured in days. Very poor quality rubber. Reconditioning is a possibility using polybush parts. However, only the early type that use wire locking on the bolts is really suitable. I've done it, surprisingly easy using the polybushes. Early joints come up for sale often enough (usually until you need one!) and the metal parts rarely wear, unless they're badly rusted. Some of those black UJ versions were originally intended for Ford Fiestas hence the difference in size of the column. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 20, 2021 Report Share Posted August 20, 2021 Must get a set of poly bush’s but when I rebuilt the Spit insulation assembly around 20 years ago If I remember I used cable grommets cut in half still going with no issues, but I initially had problems getting the split and splined joint staying tight on the shaft so I replaced the std shank hex head bolts with Allan head where I could get more purchase on them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 20, 2021 Report Share Posted August 20, 2021 On 17/08/2021 at 07:22, PeteH said: The one I fitted to the 13/60, came from Rimmer, Pete, that's where my dangerous UJ came from! Just sayin', hopefully your one is OK. Iain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted August 20, 2021 Report Share Posted August 20, 2021 9 minutes ago, Iain T said: Pete, that's where my dangerous UJ came from! Just sayin', hopefully your one is OK. Iain Duly Noted, Ian, 👍 I will keep a careful eye on it. The "original" was beyond redemption anyway. And allegedly NLA. Plus I have "converted" to PAS anyway. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 Hi All, I’ve found it impossible to get the screws required to refurb a Spit 1500 joint. But good news! Moss had them in stock, original type of joint. Not sure how they have them and Rimmers don’t. A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 I mean Moss has whole part, not the screw! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 I recently upgraded to the poly bush's in the std insulated joint can't advise if any better due to Lockdown No.6. PeteH I know the UJ joints are probably all metal thereby hopefully providing some earthing across it, but shouldn''t there be a earth wire across the two bolts to ensure a good earth for the horn, similar to the insulated joint, the rack itself has it's own earth strap/wire to the body even tho' it's of all metal construction, maybe belt and braces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 There's a small earth strap that links the bolts on one side to the bolts on the other thereby allowing the earth to pass across despite the rubber bushes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 Yes, Colin, on the original types you need it. Peter was asking about the modern "UJ" type, which are all metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 2 minutes ago, NonMember said: Yes, Colin, on the original types you need it. Peter was asking about the modern "UJ" type, which are all metal. Aha... my fault for not reading further up this morning. Still, a similar strap could be added to the two fixing bolts on the newer UJ just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 I've got an all metal UJ fitted so can confirm you DON'T need the earth strap with those. With the original 'damped' type you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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