Clutch lever issues and mystery overdrive

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, NonMember said:

Are you assuming the photo is of a complete tube? It's not. There's a slit down one side which accomodates the tab your mini-lucar kind-of-wedges onto.

Are they still available anywhere?

 

[Pete Lewis]

thanks clive ive been fighting password and lockouts for a couple of days so brain is more pickled than normal

 

so J type  use a 1" thin AF spanner to undo the solenoid do not use grips on the body you can wreck it easily

remove the small 10mm circlip in the end and shake the spool piston out  

examine the 0 rings on this and the bigger ones that seal the assy to the case 

the spool valve piston should move witha shake and rattle about if its stif it wont work

if the 0 rings are split   it wont work 

James Paddock Limited - Triumph Stag, Spitfire, TR6, TR7, GT6, Vitesse, Herald Parts and Spares Specialists. OVERDRIVE SEALS SET J TYPE(JPS287)

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[Papa Smurf]

5 hours ago, DanMi said:

do you need the whole fork or just the pin (112516) and as a warning when I replaced my fulcrum pin many seemed to be slightly fat so the clutch fork couldn't move freely (probably nearest metric) I used the one Colin linked to which worked well. Also the release bearings many are selling outside of a clutch kit are not the correct depth. There is this NOS clutch fork on ebay  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165335548997?hash=item267ec44445:g:8D8AAOSw5iJiB8l3 but the release bearing looks like a mk1/early mk2 coil type (flat face) 

I think I need the whole fork, as the pushrod seems to have punched right through the fork itself.  I have ordered the one you found on ebay, annoying to hear that the release bearing may be the wrong type.  Do you think it will work if I replace the release bearing with the correct (1500 type) version?

[Josef]

Canleys list 207907 as the early coil type release arm (Mk1/2), 213032 as the diaphragm type (MkIII, IV, 1500) for ~£40 second hand. Though how different they are someone more knowledgeable might be able to chime in with. You’ll at least be able to compare the two when you get it!

[thescrapman]

21 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Papa Smurf!

                              I have tested mine on the bench but you do need an electric motor and a pressure gauge(will sort out photos)

That overdrive is not a Triumph fitment as is a 28% (I have the same fitted to Spitty) they were fitted to Reliant Scimitars and probably big Fords etc

It does make it nice for motorway work as 70mph is a gnats over 3000rpm but not much good under about 40mph.

Roger

Later 2.5S had a 28% overdrive, got a few spares on the shelf.

But J-types and D-types are usually 25% and A- type are 22%.

Well I think the D were 25%. Would need to have a look.

[Papa Smurf]

4 minutes ago, Josef said:

Canleys list 207907 as the early coil type release arm (Mk1/2), 213032 as the diaphragm type (MkIII, IV, 1500) for ~£40 second hand. Though how different they are someone more knowledgeable might be able to chime in with. You’ll at least be able to compare the two when you get it!

Thanks, will wait and see what turns up and what the current one looks like when I get transmission out.  Well noted that replacements have to be identical though!

[DanMi]

yes the lever itself will be the same so changing the release bearing to the later type will be ok just check that the carrier is the same. To be honest a NOS release bearing that has sat around with dried up grease which you can't really replace would probably be best replaced anyway. Just be careful if you buy a release bearing as many are not right and to be honest it may be worth putting a new clutch in whilst in there

[thescrapman]

7 hours ago, Papa Smurf said:

Thanks for the offer Colin, and to Josef, I’ve actually sourced the parts I need for the clutch lever from Rimmer, but they don’t have clutch levers.  I found one of those on EBay for £45 with release bearing and pushrod fitted.

45 quid???? Need to cash in my stash I think.

[Papa Smurf]

4 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

45 quid???? Need to cash in my stash I think.

Do you have a website? I might yet need some more stuff.. 😏

[DanMi]

looks like I am wrong and the early coil clutch lever is different, so you will need to check it over  there is another one here on ebay  item no  255360518186 and the bearing difference is pretty clear

[Papa Smurf]

20 minutes ago, DanMi said:

yes the lever itself will be the same so changing the release bearing to the later type will be ok just check that the carrier is the same. To be honest a NOS release bearing that has sat around with dried up grease which you can't really replace would probably be best replaced anyway. Just be careful if you buy a release bearing as many are not right and to be honest it may be worth putting a new clutch in whilst in there

Replacing a worn clutch plate is what I started out meaning to do, as this is what the guy I bought the car off said was the problem with it.  I seem to have got diverted into other things along the way.  

[Clive]

I may have a clutch arm etc in brighton. Can check in the morning. 

[NonMember]

14 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Are they still available anywhere?

 

I've not seen any for a while but then I've not been looking. They shouldn't be the sort of thing that's impossible to find.

[Colin Lindsay]

I think I've found them under 'split bullet connectors'... used in alternators as well.

[Pete Lewis]

the ones ive seen are smaller and crimped on , my 2000 is original like that

i do have some 3mm lucar that may be better  its the depth of clearance that makes the switch terminals being a bit small

Insulated | Terminals | Connectors (bowerspartsonline.co.uk)

 

[NonMember]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I think I've found them under 'split bullet connectors'... used in alternators as well.

Those aren't quite the thing - the split should be slightly open all the way and there should be a crimp tag on one end. I've not found them on a quick search.

Meanwhile, these are the type Pete should have linked to for the commonly supplied alternative

[Stratton Jimmer]

18 hours ago, NonMember said:

Are you assuming the photo is of a complete tube?

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying here. I see no tube unless you mean the female bullet. The switch shown in picture number 5 of the 6 is the same as that on both my Spit and GT6 each of which uses the lucar connectors to push into the upper holes of the switch as illustrated. It doesn't seem like a bodge as they work really well.

[NonMember]

23 minutes ago, Stratton Jimmer said:

I see no tube unless you mean the female bullet

It's not a female bullet, as such, but a split brass tube. It fits the hole in the switch with the split where the terminal is. Think power button symbol - the plastic housing is the full outline with the switch terminal being the vertical tick. The cable connector cross-section is the most-of-a-circle part.

The lucar is not designed to be used in that way and is not the right shape for the hole. It works, yes, but in much the same way that a screwdriver works for levering two holes into alignment. But in the absence of readily available proper terminals, the small lucar will do.

[PeteH]

5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I think I've found them under 'split bullet connectors'... used in alternators as well.

They look similar to some we used to see, where the cable goes through the centre and wraps over the end before biend inserted into the conector??

Pete

 

[Pete Lewis]

16 minutes ago, PeteH said:

where the cable goes through the Centre and wraps over the end

you got it ......  commonly used for bullet repairs .,( as in harness snap connectors )

 

[Papa Smurf]

Update for anyone interested. Transmission is out (that’s an experience!) and took some photos of the bust clutch lever.  As expected the pin that was supposed to hold the push rod was rattling around in the bottom of the bellhousing.  There are notes in the file of a clutch lever pin “fabrication” (ie a “bodge”) a year ago.  I think it had probably run for years before that with the pin missing and the pushrod flapping about in the recess in the clutch lever before this eventually ground through the back of the clutch lever.  
 

And yes, DanMi was right the ebay clutch lever has the wrong bearing on it.

Ordering parts and hope to be on the road soon!

[Josef]

Oh wow, that is quite some wear! 

[Pete Lewis]

bodge of the week  !!

a bolt and nut would have lasted better 

Pete

[Steve P]

On the crimps for the OD switch,below is what i put on mine,just open the split a bit and jobs a goodun.

S

 

[Papa Smurf]

On 13/02/2022 at 23:03, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Papa Smurf!

                              I have tested mine on the bench but you do need an electric motor and a pressure gauge(will sort out photos)

That overdrive is not a Triumph fitment as is a 28% (I have the same fitted to Spitty) they were fitted to Reliant Scimitars and probably big Fords etc

It does make it nice for motorway work as 70mph is a gnats over 3000rpm but not much good under about 40mph.

Roger

Hi Roger, sorry for not acknowledging this earlier but can you explain what you mean by the fact it’s not a Triumph fitment?  Will this effect how it works?  It’s all back together and have done a few test runs at about 40-50mph and flicking the OD switch has no discernible effect on engine revs.