Anglefire

Fitted this afternoon. Doesn't light up - but that's a minor detail. The nut isn't quite tight enough - but doesn't seem to be any particular size - its almost 1/2" but not quite! When the dash is replaced, it should give better access so will be sorted properly then!

I've half thrown in my new radio - the plugs were the same as the old one (A rover one!) so that was easy - but that is where the ease ended! The +ve feed was un-shrouded at the joint - so had blown the fuse! Replaced the joint with a shrouded bullet. The speaker wires were twisted and taped - so replaced with bullets. The aerial lead was too short so had to re-route. And I've not found (Or looked actually) for a switched feed and so I've had to leave the fuse out so it doesn't flatten the battery - I'll find a suitable feed when I change the dash!

Well. My dad has completed the re-veneer. looks good I think. It’s not high gloss - but has a gloss sheen.

Thanks Roger - so not through the dash - thats a relief 😂 This one seems nice and firm - I'll see what happens when I fit it!

My car was originally fitted with a map reading light - so I've bought one from the Spitfire Graveyard - but can't work out where it fits or how its turned on! Anyone got any clues! (May not have thought this through properly!)

It’s ongoing. Though we changed the veneer yesterday as the one I originally picked looks rubbish when the holes are all taken into account - so have swapped for a full burr walnut veneer. it will look fabulous when it’s done. 😃

This being my dash - and I hate the fog light switch!

This has moved on very slightly. Decided to get a "new" dash and re-veneer that one rather than having the car off the road whilst its done. Got one off ebay from the Spitfire graveyard - was only £30 and is in good condition. Though on arrival I've noticed the hazard switch on the new one is located above the indicator lamp and not on the right hand side of the steering wheel. Not bothered in the slightest but is interesting! I do have to add a hole for the fog lights that are also fitted - that or remove the fogs as they weren't on originally and will never be used!

I skimmed my head (About 0.75mm) to raise the CR to 9.5 and haven't lifted the pedestals to compensate - I can't see it making much difference to the geometry. Doesn't seem to have done anyway. But have standard rockers on.

I took mine out from the side without bonnet removal because I did it on the drive! But I had another engine to put straight in again, so wasn't rebuilding the one already installed.

Doesn’t matter what you think 40 years old is, you can’t declare it before the 1st April of the year following it’s build/registered date, but it does become historic from 1st Jan I went through this pain when mine became 40 two years ago in August 2017 - I couldn’t do it before the April because the tax law didn’t change the date until after the budget in effect. And they don’t backdate any tax paid to jan 1st either 😖

Thanks. 100’c is reasonable I would say too. Wasn’t sure if 110 was a bit hot. Especially as sump temp should be lower anyway as it has been cooled a bit? Though the only cooling it gets is air across the sump and from the block/water.

After my run out yesterday, I checked the temperature around the engine with my IR temperature probe. Specifically around the sump and bottom of the engine. I know oil has to be hotter than the water in the engine so that any moisture gets driven out - but what temperature should it be? I was reading over 100'C (107-110) at the sump in places - though the bottom of the sump was slightly lower than 100 - the top hose was around 85'C I discounted the temperature on the exhaust manifold side at nearly 150 on account its proximity! This was after a 15-20 mile run at upto 70mph on a dual carriage way but the last 5miles was between 30 and 40 due to the speed limit, so I assume would have cooled down slightly?

It’s a fair point Tony. And one I haven’t checked - but doesn’t sound like it to me. But I’ll have to check before I rule it out.

I should have said sender. Sorry.

This afternoon I took the wheel and drum off the rear brake and noticed that the cylinder wasn’t being held to the backplate securely. The one clip had come out - as it happens one was lying on the trolley jack so put that in - I don’t think it’s the right one so will get another couple of sets to fit and hold in stock. Took it out for a spin - and initially it was quiet - but after about 10miles of reasonably brisk driving it came back - not as bad though. Back on the drive I checked and the clip was still in place. There are no witness marks either suggesting anything was hitting anything either. So sort of half solved. Possibly 😂

Mine was reading about 58ohms and shows just under 1/2 full. Given the location of the "shelf" and the fact that the tank isn't linear but the sender probably is, its somewhere close. The empty point will be the key! Need to get out and drive it more!

I'm happy enough the gauge works ok. I have put the sender back in, but not clamped down and rotated it so the float would rise up and I couldn't feel any fouling and based on the position of the float eyeballing it on the outside and it looks about right!

It’s purely a mechanical issue I think. Just a question of getting the float in the right place.

The stabiliser is ok - well I replaced it some time ago to an electronic one and the temp gauge is fine.

The fuel gauge on my car has been replaced and hasn't read very well for ages- doesn't get anywhere close to full when it is and doesn't indicate empty either! So this afternoon, as I had run the tank down a fair bit (Though less than I first thought!) I dropped out the sender and eyeballed the float and adjusted it by bending the wire - both down a bit and towards the back of the car - as I think it was hanging up on the front edge of the tank where it expands. I also measured the resistance - extreme reads of 30ohms and 240ohms - I thought standard was 20 and 200Ohms so not sure how much that will affect anything and even if you can get a direct replacement! Now is reading just under 1/2 full - the level is above the shelf inside the tank. So I'm going to run it some more and see what happens - and I have a spare tank in the boot should I actually run out!

I've had my impact driver for over 30years. I must be getting bloody old! Works a treat - and mine (I assume they all do!) you can take off the head and reveal the 1/2" drive so can use it with sockets too!

My previous insurance specified that my Spitfire had to be locked and the roof put on when parked up - even on a petrol station forecourt! Needless to say I am no longer with them but I've not actually seen anything on the Peter James Policy to say one thing or another - but I tend to put the roof on if I am going to leave the car for a while - more in case it rains! - and I lock it and fit the steering lock. But as said, it will get knicked if anyone wants it! It is left without the roof on and unlocked when its in the garage - but that is locked with a 5lever lock on the internal door and a 5 lever (I think) lock on the steel door itself. And nearly always has another car parked on the otherside of the door on the drive!

Went out today for a 50mile round trip. I have backed off the needles (Su carbs) so it is running a little leaner at idle at least (exhaust is still black) and coming down a couple of hills on the overrun I was getting a slight pop from the exhaust. The idle speed that I did reduce after my last run out is running a little too high again (about 1000rpm) - I’ve not adjusted it again yet. When I got back home I sprayed the inlet manifold with some brake cleaner and no change to the idle speed (which is a relief!) but I sprayed it around the carb spindles and it did change slightly on both sides. Not much but a definite change. I have looked at the inside of the carbs and the top of the one (front) needle is a bit damp from fuel. So I think I will check the fuel pressure (the pump is a new one (12months or so) and I wonder having read other things on here) that the new pumps tend to over pressure the lines. I already have a fuel pressure gauge that I can fit. The float is obviously another possibility as well as the valve in the float chamber. But they have been replaced previously too Another other thoughts?

Yes I have Johny - but I’ve come out for a little drive to the outlaws and I’ve determined that it’s actually the brakes - pressing the brake peddle and the noise stops. Don’t know why I haven’t worked that out before but it’s a definite. So ive got to strip the one side and see what it’s doing.