Straightsix Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 Hi, in the past I’ve always been more familiar with old fords, MG and minis, never Triumphs. So I thought why not give a Vitesse a try? I bought myself a Buyers Guide to get some info and decided the mk2 Saloon would be my preferred choice. Now having recently bought one, is has had several modifications over the years. I am slowly doing bits and pieces. I read the mk2 had a revised rear suspension set up. The seller said it has new CV half shafts replacing the old rubber Rotoflex couplings and had some suspension work from a PO. My take on this was I could see it had adjustable dampers all round, however I am surprised to discover that rear telescopic dampers were not an original fitment, would or should a standard type leaf spring still remain? or how to tell what I have? Thanks in advance Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 I've never had a Vitesse but I think originally the MK2 had rear lever arm dampers - I had a caller to my house many years ago looking for Vitesse spares and I remember telling him that the lever arm dampers he was looking were NOT Triumph. I had to go look it up and found that he was correct. I know there is a conversion to shock absorbers from lever arms, that requires a bracket, but I don't know exactly what size or brand of shock is required - I'm assuming that has been done on yours? I'm always open to learning new things but I think in all cases they retained the leaf spring. Leaf spring should be 11 leaves, 215 lbs/in spring rate. I've found some info on lever-arm dampers: https://vitessesteve.blogspot.com/2015/09/armstrong-lever-dampers-explanation.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 The rear dampers conversion is part of this kit (chassis brackets and blue telescopic dampers): https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RV6200G The transverse leaf spring is unaffected. The CV conversion is good - it gets rid of the rotoflex rubber donuts, which are not generally available to the spec / quality of the original items. Gully 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted October 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 Thanks for your replies, from memory I think it does have the Gaz shocks fitted.* So were later Mk2’s manufactured without the lever arm arrangement ? *l will check mine again when I get a chance, I remember seeing some cone bump stops on the rear and thinking they appear to be redundant?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 and club shop also sell the conversion kit from lever arm to telescopic and its far easier to work on the rear wishbone/suspension with a CV shaft rather than have to fight the silly tension you get with the doughnuts having to be distorted to fit. so think yourself lucky Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 Weren`t the chassis bracket extensions just to clear the doughnut with normal shocks?.With CV shafts you don`t need them. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 yes thats rings a bell but lever arms are pricey and not that long lasting a cheap telescope is pretty trouble free . no leaks links & less bushes to wear out and there a whole load of must have alternatives on sale Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 CV joints an excellent must have and I also have Gaz shock abs all round which, I know I shouldn't say it, have been very good. Mine are adjustable and very handy to alter the ride comfort. Iain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted October 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 Had to take a second look at the car and hope I’ve attached a photo to give you a better description*, the rear spring looks very original and rusty, maybe a wire brush up and applying a lube along the spring will help? The top extension bracket looks tight against the underside of the chassis, is that correct? Also it’s the bottom cone bump stop that looks to be redundant? so assuming that could be removed. The rear dampers are old Spax adjustables where the fronts have the newer Gaz Adjustables *Can’t find the photos on this outdated iPad so will try and add from the phone shortly🤞 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted October 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 I wonder if the lever arms (all mk 2 vitesse came with them) were replaced by telescopics so the brackets were needed to clear the doughnuts. Then later the drive shafts were replaced with CV so the brackets are no longer needed. Note however that Im not sure if the shocks are the same for with and without brackets and this could be why the brackets have been retained... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 24 minutes ago, Straightsix said: The rear dampers are old Spax adjustables You can do better! Matching your Gaz fronts would be logical. Konis all round is probably the best option, but they are expensive. Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 To confirm, all Mk 2 Vits were fitted from new with archaic lever arm shocks at the rear, only to clear the rotoflex donuts. Extra lower brackets were welded to the chassis to mount them and incorporate a lower bump stop ( which becomes redundant if converting to CV shafts). The original Vit Mk 1 upper shock mounts were left on the chassis. The telescopic mounting bracket kit is only required if you convert to tele shocks, but retain the donuts. If you convert to CV shafts you can use the original chassis top shock mounts, with standard length Vit Mk1 shocks. You don't need the extra brackets. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted October 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 Thank you trigolf for that explanation would you know if there is any gain to be had to the ride by removing extension bracket and re attaching telescopic damper to the original top mount? or just leave it as is. TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 5 minutes ago, Straightsix said: Thank you trigolf for that explanation would you know if there is any gain to be had to the ride by removing extension bracket and re attaching telescopic damper to the original top mount? or just leave it as is. TIA This is a very interesting question. Unfortunately I don’t have any experience in this field so cannot answer it. I believe in a previous post I read the shock absorber is most efficient in the most upright position? (Maybe a comment made by JohnD)? I am also interested to find out the answer before making the next adjustments to my rear suspension. Either way I hope you enjoy your new purchase. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 As I say dont know if you can just use the same shocks without the brackets as they might be too short so restrict full suspension travel... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 Drive a Mk1 2L Vitesse and rear shock absorbers l have been told are correct have very little travel to fully compressed when at standard ride height. For good or bad l removed the top sleeve of the shock absorber and removed part of the rubber stop and welded the sleeve back on, been ok for a good few years. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 41 minutes ago, Straightsix said: Thank you trigolf for that explanation would you know if there is any gain to be had to the ride by removing extension bracket and re attaching telescopic damper to the original top mount? or just leave it as is. TIA The bracket extensions are required to move the telescopic shocks nearer to vertical, to clear the Rotoflex couplings. The non-Rotoflex Mk1 Vitesse had telescopic rear shocks as standard, mounted at an sharp inward angle to the chassis. Workshop manual images should show this arrangement better than words. With a Mk2 using CV driveshafts, clearance between the shocks and the shafts is no longer an issue. The arrangement on your car with extension brackets for the upper mounting of telescopic shocks is fine. As your car has CV joints, you could remove the extensions. However, you would then need to fit shorter telescopic shocks because of the change of angle, or the driveshafts may touch the chassis and the shocks may bottom out on big bumps. My advice would be to leave well alone. The CV shafts are a very worthwhile upgrade, as are the telescopic shocks. Removing the chassis extension brackets is unlikely to make any improvement on your present setup, even if you fitted shorter shocks. Without shorter shocks removing the brackets will cause problems. Sounds like you've got a great car, hope you enjoy the drive! Nigel 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 (edited) Here's a picture of the rear suspension on my GT6, where I've replaced Rotoflex with CV driveshafts, and fitted shorter Gaz telescopic shocks direct to the chassis. The inward angle of the shock absorber is obvious. Nigel Edited October 23, 2023 by Nigel Clark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 I have done this mod on my Mk2 Vit, as I converted to cv shafts recently. I previously had the brackets fitted and the specific shorter Gaz shocks, sold by the club. I found the Gaz shocks gave too firm a ride even on min setting. I have removed the Gaz shocks but left the brackets in situ. I then refitted a pair of low mileage Koni shocks (specced for Vit mk 1) and attached to top chassis point, as per Nigel's picture. I find the ride just right and compliant with Koni's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 Is the bracket installed correctly in straightsixes original picture? It looks like its rubbing against the underside of the floor pan.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark B Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 The brackets slide under the rear tub to chassis tower mounting bolt, and is also bolted through the eye of the original shock top mount (heralds, mk1 Vit) so the brackets will be tight up against the rear tub tunnel, which is correct. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted October 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2023 Tried resetting the the damper adjusters to their softest setting today, one adjuster was seized solid and finally snapped off. 🤬 So will need to keep an eye out for another pair of adjustables , at least I have the option for rotoflex or non rotoflex types 🙄 As NC said On 23/10/2023 at 21:43, Nigel Clark said: My advice would be to leave well alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2023 Report Share Posted October 26, 2023 adjustable shocks can be an expensive headache none of us have the ability to set a correct damper rate its all a bit trial and error if its just a road car then std fixed setting are made to a specification to suit the bump and rebound of the car weight etc. if anyone has a full chassis dynamometer then you can set up accurately the damping adjustables are very expensive and may not ever give you the ride you expect from experience you can be always on the turn it up turn it down mode do your homework before you empty the wallet Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted October 26, 2023 Report Share Posted October 26, 2023 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: adjustable shocks can be an expensive headache none of us have the ability to set a correct damper rate its all a bit trial and error if its just a road car then std fixed setting are made to a specification to suit the bump and rebound of the car weight etc. if anyone has a full chassis dynamometer then you can set up accurately the damping adjustables are very expensive and may not ever give you the ride you expect from experience you can be always on the turn it up turn it down mode do your homework before you empty the wallet Pete True. Have to say the Koni's I fitted have never been adjusted from factory setting ( you need to remove them to adjust) and I'm happy with the ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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