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Shocked and surprised


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Hi,

in the past I’ve always been more familiar with old fords, MG and minis, never Triumphs.

So I thought why not give a Vitesse a try? I bought myself a Buyers Guide to get some info and decided the mk2 Saloon would be my preferred choice.

Now having recently bought one, is has had  several modifications over the years. I am slowly doing bits and pieces.

I read the mk2 had a revised rear suspension set up.

 

The seller said it has new CV half shafts replacing the  old rubber Rotoflex couplings and had some suspension work from a PO.

My take on this was I could see it had adjustable dampers all round, however I am surprised to discover that rear telescopic dampers were not an original fitment, would or should a standard type leaf spring still remain? or how to tell what I have?

Thanks in advance Steve.

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I've never had a Vitesse but I think originally the MK2 had rear lever arm dampers - I had a caller to my house many years ago looking for Vitesse spares and I remember telling him that the lever arm dampers he was looking were NOT Triumph. I had to go look it up and found that he was correct. I know there is a conversion to shock absorbers from lever arms, that requires a bracket, but I don't know exactly what size or brand of shock is required - I'm assuming that has been done on yours?

I'm always open to learning new things but I think in all cases they retained the leaf spring.

Leaf spring should be 11 leaves, 215 lbs/in spring rate.

I've found some info on lever-arm dampers: 

https://vitessesteve.blogspot.com/2015/09/armstrong-lever-dampers-explanation.html

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The rear dampers conversion is part of this kit (chassis brackets and blue telescopic dampers): https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RV6200G

The transverse leaf spring is unaffected.

The CV conversion is good - it gets rid of the rotoflex rubber donuts, which are not generally available to the spec / quality of the original items. 

Gully

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Thanks for your replies, from memory I think it does have the Gaz shocks fitted.*

So were later Mk2’s manufactured  without the lever arm arrangement ?

*l will check mine again when I get a chance, I remember seeing some cone bump stops on the rear and thinking they appear to be redundant?? 

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Had to take a second look at the car and hope I’ve attached a photo to give you a better description*, the rear spring looks very original and rusty, maybe a wire brush up and applying a lube along the spring will help?

The top extension bracket looks tight against the underside of the chassis, is that correct? 

Also it’s the bottom cone bump stop that looks to be redundant? so assuming that could be removed.

The rear dampers are old Spax adjustables where the fronts have the newer Gaz Adjustables 

*Can’t find the photos on this outdated iPad so will try and add from the phone shortly🤞

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I wonder if the lever arms (all mk 2 vitesse came with them) were replaced by telescopics so the brackets were needed to clear the doughnuts. Then later the drive shafts were replaced with CV so the brackets are no longer needed. Note however that Im not sure if the shocks are the same for with and without brackets and this could be why the brackets have been retained...

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To confirm, all Mk 2 Vits were fitted from new with archaic lever arm shocks at the rear, only to clear the rotoflex donuts. Extra lower brackets were welded to the chassis to mount them and incorporate a lower bump stop ( which becomes redundant if converting to CV shafts). The original Vit Mk 1 upper shock mounts were left on the chassis. The telescopic mounting bracket kit is only required if you convert to tele shocks, but retain the donuts. If you convert to CV shafts you can use the original chassis top shock mounts, with standard length Vit Mk1 shocks. You don't need the extra brackets. 

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5 minutes ago, Straightsix said:

Thank you  trigolf for that explanation would you know if there is any gain to be had to the ride by removing extension bracket and re attaching telescopic damper to the original top mount? or just leave it as is.

TIA

This is a very interesting question. 
Unfortunately I don’t have any experience in this field so cannot answer it.

 I believe in a previous post I read the shock absorber is most efficient in the most upright position? (Maybe a comment made by JohnD)?

 I am also interested to find out the answer before making the next adjustments to my rear suspension.

Either way I hope you enjoy your new purchase.

 

 

 

 

 

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Drive a Mk1 2L Vitesse and rear shock absorbers l have been told are correct have very little travel to fully compressed when at standard ride height. For good or bad l removed the top sleeve of the shock absorber and removed part of the rubber stop and welded the sleeve back on, been ok for a good few years.

Regards

Paul.

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41 minutes ago, Straightsix said:

Thank you  trigolf for that explanation would you know if there is any gain to be had to the ride by removing extension bracket and re attaching telescopic damper to the original top mount? or just leave it as is.

TIA

The bracket extensions are required to move the telescopic shocks nearer to vertical, to clear the Rotoflex couplings. The non-Rotoflex Mk1 Vitesse had telescopic rear shocks as standard, mounted at an sharp inward angle to the chassis. Workshop manual images should show this arrangement better than words.

With a Mk2 using CV driveshafts, clearance between the shocks and the shafts is no longer an issue. The arrangement on your car with extension brackets for the upper mounting of telescopic shocks is fine.

As your car has CV joints, you could remove the extensions. However, you would then need to fit shorter telescopic shocks because of the change of angle, or the driveshafts may touch the chassis and the shocks may bottom out on big bumps.

My advice would be to leave well alone. The CV shafts are a very worthwhile upgrade, as are the telescopic shocks. Removing the chassis extension brackets is unlikely to make any improvement on your present setup, even if you fitted shorter shocks. Without shorter shocks removing the brackets will cause problems.

Sounds like you've got a great car, hope you enjoy the drive!

Nigel

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Here's a picture of the rear suspension on my GT6, where I've replaced Rotoflex with CV driveshafts, and fitted shorter Gaz telescopic shocks direct to the chassis.

The inward angle of the shock absorber is obvious.

Nigel

 

_DSC0397.JPG

Edited by Nigel Clark
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I have done this mod on my Mk2 Vit, as I converted to cv shafts recently. 

I previously had the brackets fitted and the specific shorter Gaz shocks, sold by the club. I found the Gaz shocks gave too firm a ride even on min setting. I have removed the Gaz shocks but left the brackets in situ. I then refitted a pair of low mileage Koni shocks (specced for Vit mk 1) and attached to top chassis point, as per Nigel's picture. I find the ride just right and compliant with Koni's.

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The brackets slide under the rear tub to chassis tower mounting bolt, and is also bolted through the eye of the original shock top mount (heralds, mk1 Vit) so the brackets will be tight up against the rear tub tunnel, which is correct.

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Tried resetting the the damper adjusters to their softest setting today, one adjuster was seized solid and finally snapped off. 🤬

So will need to  keep an eye out for another pair of adjustables , at least I have the option for rotoflex or non rotoflex types 🙄 

 

As NC said

On 23/10/2023 at 21:43, Nigel Clark said:

My advice would be to leave well alone.

 

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adjustable shocks can be an expensive headache   none of us have the ability to set a correct damper rate 

its all a bit trial and error if its just a road car then std fixed setting are made to a specification to suit the bump and rebound of the car weight etc.   if anyone has a full chassis dynamometer then you can set up accurately the damping

adjustables are very expensive and may not ever give you the ride you expect 

from experience you can be always on the turn it up turn it down mode 

do your homework  before you empty the wallet 

Pete

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

adjustable shocks can be an expensive headache   none of us have the ability to set a correct damper rate 

its all a bit trial and error if its just a road car then std fixed setting are made to a specification to suit the bump and rebound of the car weight etc.   if anyone has a full chassis dynamometer then you can set up accurately the damping

adjustables are very expensive and may not ever give you the ride you expect 

from experience you can be always on the turn it up turn it down mode 

do your homework  before you empty the wallet 

Pete

True. Have to say the Koni's I fitted have never been adjusted from factory setting ( you need to remove them to adjust) and I'm happy with the ride. 

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