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Another Trunnion Question


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  • 10 months later...

18 months ago my car had an advisory for trunnion wear (slight play), so I authorised a Triumph specialist on the Herts border to replace it. When I collected the car and asked the inevitable oil / grease question they told me that they had pumped it full of CV grease on the basis that 'all the new ones leak the oil out and new grease it okay'. I've tried a couple of times with my Wanner gun to force the grease out with EP90, but to no avail (although I've not yet tried it with the front jacked up and the wheels dangling), so may well strip the near side this weekend to de-grease and oil. The workshop manual suggests one needs to remove the hub, backplate etc - is this really necessary to pop the trunnion out of the wishbone and unscrew it from the vertical link? Based on the labour period charged for the replacement and no evidence of the calipers having been removed recently when I changed them 6 months ago, I suspect there is a work around?

Many thanks,

Gully

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When I ran trunnions I used land rover swivel housing grease.... the swivels originally had ep90 spec'd but because of leaks a new semi-fluid grease was developed. It seemed to keep my trunnions happy when I had them.

I know they lack originality, but I'm happy with the trunnionless setup I have now.

 

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I believe that original trunnions were one piece of bronze.   Later and modern copies had a steel disc swaged into the base, and this is where the leak happens.

NEW ( and only new) trunnions can be sealed, by a bead of epoxy glue spread around the inside of the joint.   There is space for this as the bottom of the upright shoulders never get  that close.

John

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42 minutes ago, JohnD said:

I believe that original trunnions were one piece of bronze.   Later and modern copies had a steel disc swaged into the base, and this is where the leak happens.

NEW ( and only new) trunnions can be sealed, by a bead of epoxy glue spread around the inside of the joint.   There is space for this as the bottom of the upright shoulders never get  that close.

John

I fitted new trunnions only to find they were leaking within 6 months , so I couldn’t repair with epoxy. I repaired by filling in with solder . To get the necessary heat you will need a gas blow lamp 

Paul

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12 hours ago, JohnD said:

I believe that original trunnions were one piece of bronze.   Later and modern copies had a steel disc swaged into the base, and this is where the leak happens.

NEW ( and only new) trunnions can be sealed, by a bead of epoxy glue spread around the inside of the joint.   There is space for this as the bottom of the upright shoulders never get  that close

Got a fail for trunions 2 years ago, replaced them and found my originals were ORIGINAL. Solid, one piece, they were however, not the original, original as I had previously replaced them in the early 80s. So early replacements were also one piece. Did I keep them for the mantle piece? No. :lol:

As to only new, I'm a great believer in the dish washer, cleans just about anything. About to do the kitchen light fittings once again, thick with grease, well, mostly airborne olive oil  :( 

image.png

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Woops! sorry about that, just bought some genuine Gibson Humbuckers for my Epiphone. Very excited, they're coming all the way from Spain, but no import duty, unlike all the way from America.  Split coil wiring so I need a diagram.

Doug

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50 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Woops! sorry about that, just bought some genuine Gibson Humbuckers for my Epiphone. Very excited,

It's OK, Doug, we understand that genuine humbuckers are exciting enough to want to post about it everywhere!

:lol:

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Twiddle day 3 will be later in the year , around september after my duxford event

Suspension....thats a big call where do you start and where to stop

We have covered toe in and camber, But are we thinking about shockers  and modifications or what

not an easy subject for a twiddle..   just what are you wishing us to  cover 

Pete

 

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Well as a noob. Explain the main components and how to check MOT style what is ok and what’s buggered. Highlight the weak points in the set up and how to change parts. Not in-depth but mention good DIY techniques and tools required. 

For instance trunions. I know mine are greased not oiled so how to check for ware and how to replace. 

Im sure others would have a shed loads of old bits they could bring in to demonstrate 

rear suspention too. Why do they toe in where modern cars don’t and rear suspension components etc. 

Obviously only a suggestion with suspension it’s everyones event and I’m glad to learn any:)thing 

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John,

Yes I've seen them.

My MOT man showed me how to test for dodgy trunions. He had an 8 foot bar, put it under the front suspension and heaved it up and down. You could clearly see the trunnion slack on the vertical link.  "Like a banana in a jam jar" as an ex once said to me.  So all we need is an 8 foot bar.

db

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Quote

where do you start and where to stop

Centralising steering rack (and meanwhile identifying whether correct rack fitted) and correcting indicator cancelling/steering wheel centralising.  Not strictly suspension, but the first topic in Carl Heilen's "Suspect Suspension Sussed" series (Courier Aug - Oct 1993).  Stop wherever . . . 

C.

 

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Thanks for the trunnion query replies. Having only recently cured pad pull back on my front calipers I don't immediately relish stripping the hub, so will put off for a little longer! I did try jacking the front and forcing the grease through with EP90 this morning, but to no avail. At least the offside has been oiled again! I plan to pick up a new near side trunnion and solder the cap prior to fitting.

Thanks, Gully

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doubbgt6,

The 'b' doesn't stand for Boothroyd does it?    Like the Major Boothroyd, M's arms expert who described Bond's Berretta 418 0.25" gun as "Nice and light... in a lady's handbag."?

Unless you're echoing Dirty Harry.     Now that I'd love to see if someone will please Photoshop it, him holding up the Punk with a Harrison 1/8" OIl gun. 

"Do I feel lucky?" Well, do ya, punk?

John

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