Gary Flinn Posted January 8, 2017 Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 Dunlop D1's fitted with no issues on my Old Mk2 Vitesse with 175/70 Uniroyal tyres? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 M12 or 7/16" unf which you fit is down to preference and stud/nut costs which vary considerably and need som homework land rover parts are generally lo cost with less mark up.. no idea about the lengths but think youve aswered for spacers or alloys as the nave is thicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 Thanks for the photos Gary nice to see them in situ. Noted Pete, thank you. As I will be doing the MGF CV conversion M12 is the logical route for the fronts. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 Sounds a good plan pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Hi What are the issues with the original skinny studs. Mine has these. I just torque up by hand (have always done on vehicles). Don't drive hard/very fast or corner fast. Am I an accident waiting to happen?. Been pondering this for a while after all the threads on it. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 No its not an accident waiting to happen but With agism, over tightening and 40+ years of on and off there is little reserve left on these rather small studs and many do unfortunatley suffer from stripping or shearing off mainly on the driveway not on the road but an adrift wheel can devastate the bodywork if youre motoring the 12mm 7/16"route is far more bullet proof, in comparison they are its brick sh*thouse well worth doing when you have the time or inclination. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Hello Dave. If you do go via the metric option M12, it appears that the Freelander studs are the best value for DECENT items. I'm only going metric due to fitting MGF hubs on the rear, so need those on each hub for simplicity. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 AsPete says, if the studs have always been correctly used etc and not over tightened they should be fine. However, over the years and working on maybe 30?? different small chassis cars, many have had one or more stripped nut or stud or both. Possibly down to the tyrefitters past and present not checking torques correctly or using rattle guns. A change to m12 has no downsides (exception being the 1500 type wheels where correct nuts that hold the plastic wheel trims are not available, but a workaround can be done) and does give that bit of extra peace of mind. On your car I wouldn't worry if you can do all nuts up and no feel of an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 There are thousands of Triumph owners out there who have no problem at all and a mere handful who have broken studs. I think it's the combination of abuse by tyre fitters, engine & brake upgrades and spirited driving that breaks the studs. A change to m12 has no downsides (exception being the 1500 type wheels where correct nuts that hold the plastic wheel trims are not available, but a workaround can be done) Tell me more about this workaround please Clive! Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 I think in a lot of cases it's the fitting of the old Carlos Fandango super-wide wheels that causes the bother, as you're often working further out on the wheel studs than standard wheels need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 There are thousands of Triumph owners out there who have no problem at all and a mere handful who have broken studs. I think it's the combination of abuse by tyre fitters, engine & brake upgrades and spirited driving that breaks the studs. Tell me more about this workaround please Clive! Cheers, Richard I have them on my sptfire, but as it is dark, raining and I don't know how to post pics here a description will have to suffice. Simply took the springs off the plastic trims, and drilled the holes out (20mm? maybe!) and used the taper wheel nuts. I may have added some thin foam (think draught proofing type stuff) to help stop rattling, but it isn't there now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 I think in a lot of cases it's the fitting of the old Carlos Fandango super-wide wheels that causes the bother, as you're often working further out on the wheel studs than standard wheels need to. Not is any of the cases I have seen. But they were all stripped threads, normally the nuts. So assume just overtightened by some orangutan.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Thanks Clive - I can picture what you're saying! Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Happy to whatsapp some pics if you pm a number (my kids showed me how to do that, and it is very simple) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I don't have a smartphone - it would be smarter than me! You have a PM. Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Hi Everyone. This has probably been covered in other threads but can anyone tell me the current, modern tyre size for my 1972 MkIV Spitfire 1300 with standard steel rims. The old tyres simply say 155/R13,no profile or speed rating. There appears to be a lot of 'science' in choosing tyres today. I just need a set of reliable, safe tyres to replace my 25 year old ones to get through an mot. Any recomendations for brand, dunlop, contis, yokos etc would be gratefully received. Car will just be used for motoring, no rallies or track stuff!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 With modern radial tyres, the default profile is 80. So original fitment would have been 155/80 R13. I don't have a brand recommendation - speak to 10 owners & you'll get 10 different recommendations! Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Or you can have the correct response and answer first time around !!!!!! Have a look at the Dunlop Street Response 2 - it's an excellent tyre and I will be fitting a full set to my Vitesse Mk2 very soon. As you can see 155/80/13 is covered. https://www.national.co.uk/tyres/brand/dunlop/street-response-2/ Good luck. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Thanks Gents. I have looked at the Dunlop, also the Yokohama which also get a good write up in certain quarters and are slightly cheaper via Black Circles (one of their dealers is just down the road), not that I would put cost above safety but every little helps!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Consider falken 832 or Uniroyal too if it gets driven in the wet. Both superb. And please replace every 7 years max, worn out or not! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Also check the age / manufacture date when you buy the tyres - not that many 13 inch tyres get sold these days and I found the 'new' ones I'd bought and had fitted were already 4 years old! Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 My brother made a tyre place take newly replaced "new" tyres off his modern, because they were 3 years old. The year and month (?) is printed on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 13, 2017 Report Share Posted July 13, 2017 Some of the online suposed cheaper have a clause about thier tyres being pre 2012 and not date stamped its lost in the small print policies . if you dont do many miles and and dont need premium tyre performance many of the budget tyres will do all you need certainly if they age before you wear them out aging makes the rubber? hard and it has no grip , can be so hard they wont wear out here lies the danger then the steel bands can corrode internally and you dont know 7 years is the recomended max age you should consider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Thanks all. Never knew about the date of manufacture markings so will check before they are fitted. Will use old tyres over weekend as I try to free off clutch/flywheel.. usual problem but doesn't want to come free this time!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Hi! I am looking to put "Minilite" Alloys on my Mk1 Vitesse 6 (1966) any idea what size I would need? Cheers Martyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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