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Good old trusty Triumphs


daverclasper

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I didn't notice any real issues at CLM either, and the cars were often stuck in traffic etc. for extended periods. In fact it seems ignition caused a couple of issues, and one of our group needed to blow down their fuel pipe to clear a blockage.....

But then again cars that get used seem to have far fewer issues than those that don't. (there is  a moral to that)

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At the last Cambridge area meeting, somebody commented on the lack of engine bay valances and radiator ducting on my GT6. "Don't they overheat without them?" they asked, as that appears to be the common wisdom. Well, in my experience, no. It runs hot in the cabin and it tends to stutter when pulling away in traffic but the gauge just sits in the middle.

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The 1850 in the Dolomite is running GREAT in traffic and slow driving, but the temp climbs under heavy load/higher speed. I'm looking at a recon rad to perhaps address the issue.

The Spitfire 1500 doesn't seem the least bit bothered, but then I have fitted the wider rad and an oil cooler.

 

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Just like Clive, stuck in the CLM traffic and the temperature did rise (standard radiator, no side valences and mechanical fan) but not to the 'pull over' stage and on checking levels fine.  It may just have been timing and the route but do not recall seeing a classic at the side of the road bonnet up/broken down; my accomplice in his MGBGT V8 still manged to limp to the camp site with only 4th gear before the distributor packed up so going home on a lorry!

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My Spitty has a normal radiator with some of the front cardboard valances in a poor condition...despite this no problems so far in the hot weather....all good.

As a precaution, my heater knob is on hot but the heat does not bother me as it dissipates well when the hood is down and it also helps keep the car cool.

Nautam

 

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To be honest, I don't think my pull-away misfire is due to heat, although it's not there when cold. When I replaced the disi cap last year, it pretty much disappeared... for a couple of weeks. I've probably got a weak coil or tired ballast resistor or something.

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Rob

I have recently got possibly the same issue. Its only been like this with my GT6 this year, the only thing I have changed is to put new fuel in!  ( not sure if ethanol makes an evaporation difference and has recently increased)

I  thought I might have a dodgy plug or something but that does not seem to be it either Coil is new last year although its a lucas Gold one?? so might change to a bosch and its 3 ohm system so no ballasting Again fine when cold, dizzy cap is in good nick and dizzy is well lubricated  Again just at low revs it plays up but is happy @ 70 down the dual carriageway

It was fine  last year in france when the temperature was around 40 degrees ( although it did get pretty hot!)

Can anyone advise on the model of the bosch coil I should get?

Aidan

 

 

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My mk3 spitfire has suddenly started to get hot, needle above halfway and climbing. Opening the bonnet reveals a spray of coolant hitting the underside of said bonnet from somewhere, nothing major but a bit concerning nonetheless. I drove it to Lubenham and back, 50 mile round trip, the other day and it was fine so wondering whats happened in the meantime. Is it just the heat?

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If you could not see where the spray was was coming from it is worth having the engine running and up to temperature then blip the throttle by hand, standing back of course.  From past experience (Lotus Europa) this caused a small pinhole/split to reveal itself that closed up on tickover.

Dick

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Mine is running well in the heat, but the temp gauge only ever gets up to about 25%. Everyone else talks about half way? Will this be a faulty gauge, sensor or something more serious. New t/stat and rad cap last year. It could just be normal... but nothing else on this car is

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the gauges are a indication , not rocket science,,  if its consistent and shows unusual changes then  thats ok by me

it could be wrong sender  or gauge  mix   , low stabiliser  voltage , wonky gauge  ....  bent needle  ...skys the limit 

you know whats normal    run with it and watch for any radical change ...or  not

Pete

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My previous engine never went above 1/4 unless it was really hot when 1/2 was reached. 

I put a new sender in the new engine which was a bit longer so sits in the water passage rather than being shrouded by the thermostat housing. And now it sits 1/2 way perhaps a smige above when the ambient has been upwards of 25. 

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There are two senders used depends on the gauge type

Early wavy needle moving iron not stabilised use 121997

And   later stabilised slow moving needle use generic GTR108

They all used to be different coloured but thats not cast in stone  ie   ive seen   red  or green but most are just black now 

Get them mixed and you get very odd readings ,   normally too hot rather than too cold 

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