Screenwash/wipe electrification mod

[Ian Cooper]

I finally got around to repairing the screenwash/pump switch on my GT6 Mk2 that someone, in its past, had butchered replacing the plastic knob with a crudely shaped piece of wooden dowel.

I had picked up a similar looking switch on ebay a couple of years ago but one of the electrical connections was different (smaller) and one was a female connector so I hadn't fitted the switch.

I decided to take the  plunger rod from the donor switch to replace the (butchered) plunger from my switch and fit a new knob.

Taking the donor switch apart it became obvious the inner pump would be damaged beyond repair so I figured an upgrade to an electric switch would be a good idea.

So this is my solution if it helps anyone.

Parts used:

1 Lucas style push button switch (0-485-01) momentary 10A horn (Durite) - EBAY

1 Plastic bush (148926) lower wishbone rear (rotoflex)- GT6 and Vitesse

2 x 1/2 self tappers and small washers.

2" by 1/2" strip of neoprene pond liner (a couple of turns of insulation tape would work just as well)

Method:

Remove the knob (there's a small hole underneath the shank, push a thin rod in to release the nylon locking clip) and withdraw the knob.

Remove the pump/switch from the dashboard.

Remove the white pump inlet/outlet end (I drilled a series of small holes around the inlet/outlet nozzles, joined them up and pulled out the remnants, a spring and rubber diaphragm.

At this point I swapped the donor plunger with my butchered plunger but you shouldn't have to do that it can stay in place.

Remove the 'Lucas' switch mounting nut (not shown) but leave the mounting washer. Wrap the neoprene around the switch body (a couple of turns of insulation tape will do) and slide it into the suspension bush as shown.

Now place the assembly into the pump body and and check the fit against the plunger; the whole assembly should fit snugly against the plunger with it's domed head seating in the switch depression. NB The switch has a small amount of travel before it switches so you can mount it without a gap to the plunger.

If you're happy with the fit drill two small 'pilot' holes (180° apart on the horizontal) through the outer pump body and just mark the bush inside.

Now remove the switch, and drill through the bush.

Align holes and screw the self tappers through the pump body and into the bush; to cut a thread.

Take out the self tappers and (to prevent damage to the switch I filed the sharp points off the screws to make them blunt).

Put the switch/bush assembly back together and position in the pump body with the holes aligned.

Replace the self tappers using thin washers and job done, 'a period' modification that can be repaired or replaced.

You'll need an electric pump and a couple of wires but that's the easy bit.

Hope this helps someone.

Thanks for all your help.

Ian

 

[Mathew]

Love the looking around the problem, a solution that is practical and will look period 👍 

[dougbgt6]

7 minutes ago, Mathew said:

and will look period 👍 

Screen washer on my GT6 is handraulic. Nearly failed an MOT once because the apprentice couldn't turn the screen washer on. 

Doug

[Badwolf]

Mine nearly failed once because I forgot to point out the separate switch for the washer motor. Eventually did a similar job on mine like Ian's, but using a none latching fuzz box switch built into the washer pump body connected to the pump motor.

[dougbgt6]

7 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

a none latching fuzz box

I just bought a TC electronic Dark Matter distortion pedal, could I fit it to my car, or would I be better with the Mojo overdrive? 

Doug

[Badwolf]

Maybe go for the Kangaroo Relocation Drive (apologies to Douglas Adams <again>)

[Pete Lewis]

and for an alarming array of switches to play with and many other classic related parts 

spend an hour browsing  https://www.holden.co.uk/ 

Pete

[dougbgt6]

Actually that's made me think (nothing good ever comes from it). A guitar overdrive overloads the amplifier and IS an overdrive. Where as our car's overdrives swap between flat out and not so flat out. So they're not overdrives.  Underdrives? Not a good marketing feature I suppose.

Doug

[Mathew]

7 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Actually that's made me think (nothing good ever comes from it). A guitar overdrive overloads the amplifier and IS an overdrive. Where as our car's overdrives swap between flat out and not so flat out. So they're not overdrives.  Underdrives? Not a good marketing feature I suppose.

Doug

Pretty much what i find at work about communication, it sould be overwhelming but is mostly underwhelming!

[Colin Lindsay]

50 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Actually that's made me think (nothing good ever comes from it). A guitar overdrive overloads the amplifier and IS an overdrive. Where as our car's overdrives swap between flat out and not so flat out. So they're not overdrives.  Underdrives? Not a good marketing feature I suppose.

Doug

Technically they're both operating above the norm ie the guitar pedal pushes the sound beyond standard and the overdrive makes the car go faster for the same revs. 

Under drive is where you leave the car... as opposed to inder garage.

[ahebron]

Land Rovers had an underdrive option, whether you could fit as well as the overdrive I do not know.

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, ahebron said:

Land Rovers had an underdrive option, whether you could fit as well as the overdrive I do not know.

I remember the two large levers, one yellow knob one red, for high and low gearing. Does that count?

[PeteH]

Colin. With the admonition, "leave that bloody red one alone!".😀? Like the one in the Engine room. It cost you a case (24) of beers. Should you ever use it!. Getting the "Chief" out of bed was "a crime against humanity".

Pete

[ahebron]

On 17/04/2021 at 20:35, Colin Lindsay said:

I remember the two large levers, one yellow knob one red, for high and low gearing. Does that count?

Nope.
Those are the normal gears levers, I just read that underdrive comes off the PTO like the overdrive so its either under or over but not both.
Either of the above would mean three gear levers.

Adrian

[Colin Lindsay]

I drove a Mitsubishi Starion for a short while back in the 1980s and it had a lever to the right of the centre tunnel, like a second handbrake; when you pulled it a little symbol with a star illuminated on the dashboard. I'd no idea of what it did but used to move it about as I drove... turns out it was overdrive, but never made any difference to the driving that I'm aware of.

On the Landrover yellow was pushed down for four wheel drive and the red pulled back for low ratio. 

[ahebron]

I remember those but thought they only fitted it to the front wheel drive Mitsi cars.

.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Super_Shift_transmission

Unimogs have a lot of gear levers.

 

Adrian

 

 

[Peter Truman]

I had several Mitsubishi fIrst model of the Magna  in the 80’s which had a button in the gear knob presumably an overdrive like you Colin I don’t think it did anything 

[Roger K]

My old Series 2A had a little forest (copse?) of gear levers - the long cranked black one for 4-spd 'box, the yellow one for 4wd, the red one for high-low ratio, and a second black one for the Roamerdrive overdrive.  Lots of fun, and synchro only between 3-4.  A simple thing like a noiseless change from 3-2 gave a surprising feeling of satisfaction.

[mark powell]

It never ceases to amaze me watching the Outback Truckers with all their cab controls and gauges... Quite happy with my few.

[PeteH]

Older Scania trucks. Had a 4 over 2 gearbox. Some also has a two speed axle. In theory 16 Forward gears.

Pete