Gully

The Club Shop one is compatible with both types of bulbs. Gully

I remembered that I'd kept the boots off my old TREs when I changed them last year as the boots were in good condition. Miraculously, they were where I'd thought they'd be, so have swapped the split one out for one of those. In terms of dimensions, I would need to buy Boot 2 on that linked page - hole diameters around 30mm and 12.5mm. Gully

The Vitesse 2 Litre and GT6 Mk 1, 2 & 3 Triumph Workshop Manual quotes suspension data for both unladen and static laden vehicles, so a comparison can be drawn. Vitesse Mk 2 saloon and convertible unladen front camber 3.25 degrees, +/- 1.0 degree Vitesse Mk 2 saloon and convertible static laden front camber 2.0 degrees, +/- 1.0 degree (saloon 4 up, convertible 2 up) So the two figures you have may well be unladen and static laden. Gully

Thanks for the link to the boot company - fitted a new pair of track rod ends last September (NOS ones in a Stanpart box) and one of the boots has split already. Just need to go and have a measure of the old ones to see which ones I need! Gully

Happy to help - thank you for the good coffee and Belgian bun! Gully

I usually sit in the unread content view, but didn't know about the spots and stars - that's an excellent tip and saves me scrolling through the longer threads to find where I last left off 😀 Gully

I've taken some photos tonight. I spaced between the bracket and cowl top fixing to get it to sit against the radiator without distortion. You can also see where I reinforced the folds of the cowl prior to painting. Hope this assists, Gully

Smear of Vaseline on the rubber seal seems to work well in preventing weeps. Gully

I fitted an aluminium cowl without valences. I made up two brackets using aluminium angle with two holes at the bottom to fit onto the radiator bracket and two at the top to fix to the cowl. Essentially two legs. I also mechanically reinforced the main folds in the cowl with a couple of small angle brackets as they looked vulnerable. 5 years in and no issues! As Doug mentioned - dramatic improvement in cooling. I've not got any photos to hand, but if I find one I'll post it. Gully

Welcome! That Special looks fun! Given that you've known the car for so long, I suspect our club specials secretary Trevor Collett would like to hear from you - specials@tssc.org.uk Gully

Another vote for JBW Minilites - 5J X 13. I bought mine in their Black Friday sale last year (25% off, so 4 for the price of 3). Cheaper than refurbishing my old Minilites. I put 175/70 R13 tyres on mine - Toyo NonoEnergy 3 from Black Circles. Very happy with them. Gully

Why not simply pop along to your local classic-friendly MOT station and ask them to run it on their brake tester - that will tell you if you a actually have an issue as opposed to supposing you have? You may be seeking a problem you don't actually have! Gully

Another vote for petrol! Gully

Worth looking at the John Brown Wheels website - there are plenty of options available on there and they are very helpful if you speak with them. Both sets of Minilites I've had have been tapered nuts. From recollection, either Cosmic or Revolution alloys featured the nut and washer - JBW do copies of both and the appropriate nuts. Gully

QuickNick's looked better than mine before refurbishing! 😂 Mind you, I don't really hold with cleaning stuff under the bonnet - particularly when it's working fine! Gully

Welcome! Gully

My GT6 prefers BP super unleaded - it has expensive taste! 😀 I always use a super or premium unleaded - higher octane and apparently no ethanol. Gully

Front of my GT6 used to run too much camber and over 13,000 miles in my ownership it did wear the fronts unevenly (by around 1.5mm comparing inside and outside of the tread). I replaced the tyres down to age, not tread depth. So it's a slow action. Compare that with the rear tyre that was running too much toe when I first had the car - it was at the tell-tale limits in under 4,000 miles from essentially new. There's a lot of advice across different online fora about whether the book camber values are still relevant to modern wider radial tyres on our cars. Many argue that zero camber or even slight negative camber is more appropriate. I reduced mine to around 1.0-1.5 degrees positive before putting the new front tyres on! I did remember to reset the toe! Gully

Bigger car = more plants! 😂 Gully

Resurrecting this thread... Anyone found a solution yet, please? I'm getting bored with having to pull the pads out of mine, pump out the pistons and then push back to the point where I can just get the pads in to recover sensible pedal travel. I still have the original Girling Type 16P calipers in a box (albeit looking a bit scruffy after 2 years in the darkness) - is it worth getting a seal kit, or seal kit and new pistons, to re-build them? Thanks, Gully

11/16 are listed as NLA on all the websites I've checked - Rimmers, Canleys, Moss, Paddocks. Rimmers sell a kit to convert to 7/8 which includes the new size fixings. May be worth a call to see if Spitfire Graveyard has a good 11/16 ARB before going that route. Gully

Did you have an opportunity to walk out into the forest to the Jim Clark memorial? Gully

I'm sure you won't be disappointed - I have Owen's sear covers and foams in my GT6, along with door cards. Great quality. Gully

I think the odd shower referred to is us lot! Gully

Is the breather connected at the filler cap? The tank vents via the neck of the filler cap assembly - should be a breather pipe running from there (above the pipe joining filler to the tank) down through a grommet in the boot floor. Also worth checking the seal on the sender unit - mine had a habit of leaking when I fully filled the tank until I reseated it. Gully