Gully

My floor pans are zinc rich primer grey... However, I do know the Club Shop touch up pots are excellent and brush easily, so if the tins are the same source (a question for the shop), then they should brush on too. Gully

There was a thread on one of the GT6 Facebook groups about the poor fit of some of the louvred side panels - it's a shame if the Club Shop ones have issues. Seem to recall the group leader arranged a run via the chap who sells on eBay seeing as they were the best fit he'd found. My car has never had them during my ownership and likely to stay that way - their main function seems to be as splash guards and I only occasionally go out in the rain! I know there's a theory about them containing the hot air flow, but not convinced in that front. Have you got some photos showing the whole installation / fit please, Doug? Gully

I'm firmly in the drive it camp - plenty of dry and salt free days through the winter to enjoy the car and get it properly up to temperature. The longest I've gone between drives in the past 5 years is 16 days. Gully

Welcome aboard! I'm sure if you make your way along to your nearest regional meeting they will have some tips on local mechanics / garages. Details are on the home page of the website or in The Courier. Gully

If it's any consolation, mine was the same. Reset the clearances after around 500 miles and they've stayed quiet. I also checked with a torque wrench that the pedestal nuts were still tight after a number of heating / cooling cycles. Gully

Many thanks, Mark, but I have access to a lifter from our TSSC Area tool collection - just not got it to hand for this weekend when I was considering doing the work. Really appreciate the offer though - that's what makes this forum and the people on it so valuable. Gully

Thanks for the inputs everyone. It hadn't occurred to me that the block itself could be a challenge to remove from the diff - I'd assumed it simply sat there as a spacer. If it's a full strip down it can wait (as it has for the past year or so!) - I don't have a spring lifter and hoped it would be a few hours work on Saturday. John - thanks for your concerns, but I always use axle stands or ramps if I'm going under the car. Gully

Hi all, A couple or so years ago the rear spring was replaced on my rotoflex GT6. Knowing the new springs have a habit of giving positive camber, I specified a half-inch lowering block. Over the first 6 months the spring was fitted, the rear gradually lowered to the point where the block could be removed and retain negative camber. I've procrastinated about doing the job for a while, but really should get around to it. My question is how best to go about the removal? I really don't want to take the spring out completely, so have been mulling over the following approach: 1. Jack up the rear of the car 2. Remove the spring holding plate and studs from the top of the diff 3. Carefully partially lower the car so the spring lifts sufficiently from the diff to remove the lowering block 4. Jack up the rear again, replace the studs and bolt down the holding plate (ensuring the locating pip locates in the top of the diff) Will this work? The car has CV shafts in place of the rotoflex couplings, so less force involved there! Thanks in advance for your thoughts! Gully

Welcome aboard the forum! Lovely looking Spitfire - Magenta's a favourite colour of mine (along with Java Green). Gully

What is new though is the number of Club vehicles that now by law no longer require MOTs. So are they going to continue to offer agreed value insurance as part of the TSSC panel, or is it formally conditional on MOT status? I'm not fussed either way, but when insurance companies use the word 'may' it's there to give them a way out - they should be straightforward and clear. Gully

I suspect the rubber employed has changed over the years. The aged door seals on mine are much softer than the replacements available now. Another example is the lousy gearstick gaiters available now - much thicker and less flexible than the originals. Gully

I'll be interested to see how they address renewals - my MOT is due in September and insurance renewal in October. My agreed valuation certificate has a year to run (and no such slippery caveat). I detest insurance companies. Legalised extortion! Gully

It's a worrying (but predictable) development that the insurers are getting in on the absence of an MOT (when there is no statutory requirement for one) to influence agreed value - hope the Club is on to this and clarifies the position with all insurance panel members. Hiding it away in the small print is unhelpful for all concerned. Gully

No idea whether it is correct or not, but mine has a single lip seal. Never known it to leak and the hatch sits nicely flush, unlike many struggling with the oversize bubble seal. Gully

Sorry - missed this. Will do so over the next day or so when I next see the car in the daylight! Gully

The underside of my bonnet is stonechip then body colour. Gully

I'm with Shaun - much rather be driving than counting screws and making sure their head slots line up in a field somewhere! That said, McDonalds coffee was lousy last time I tried it, so maybe not there either! Gully

I drilled my aluminium cowl with a hole saw - just put a piece of timber inside it and drilled... Took a bit of filing afterwards, but simple enough. Gully

They look great, Colin. Were they an eBay purchase? Can't really tell from the photo, but are they a convex front? I've never really liked the flat fronted H4 sealed beams on mine. Thanks, Gully

Very little movement on mine - just enough to take up the pressure of the runner seal whilst still compressing it. Gully

I suspect Speedy Cables may be your best bet - they're not the fastest to reply to emails though, so may be worth a call. Gully

That's good to know - I kept the original basket weave covers after replacing mine as they only needed seam work. Gully

If you remove the heater knobs and open the middle segment of the dash it's much easier to access the back of the speedo and one of the two holding clamps. Gully

The odometer and trip 'pause' on mine each time I clock over another 1000 miles. Quick tap on the face of the speedometer gets them moving again! Gully

Welcome aboard - good luck with your hunt! Gully