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Everything posted by Gully
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That's a shame. I had a difficult experience with Jigsaw, I suspect mainly because of it coinciding with a previous bout of ill-health for Mark, but wouldn't wish this on them. I hope his health recovers - the added stress of the receivership won't help. Gully
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There's a thread on here somewhere about using a Corsa electric power steering column as a conversion, as opposed to trying to re-engineer an original. Gully
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Should be the ultimate cut and shut! Great project - look forward to seeing it develop. Gully
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Vitesse bonnet catch comes loose when driving?
Gully replied to bfashbolt's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
The GT6 has a captive threaded plate and a nut to lock it, so needed to be the correct thread. Gully -
Vitesse bonnet catch comes loose when driving?
Gully replied to bfashbolt's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
I bought some polyurethane bonnet cones from Rimmers thinking they'd be harder, but they came with a metric thread and were unusable - returned for a refund and bought the Club ones. Gully -
Worth checking Wins International too. Gully
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The whole metal valve cap and metal stem corrosion is still going strong! Had to use a cutter in my Dremmel to remove the valve caps on my Mercedes. Mind you, if I'd checked the tyre pressures weekly probably wouldn't have been an issue! Gully
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Rotoflex GT6, radius arm bracket, which hole?
Gully replied to Adrian Saunders's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
The parts book shows them in the top holes! I suspect it's not going to make a huge amount of difference, but you probably want them the same and if you're swapping one you need to check it's not affected the rear toe / alignment. Gully -
You missed the draught Black IPA at the brewery - lovely drop! Very more-ish, which is not good when driving... Gully
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Even after over 6 years of Triumph ownership I still find it odd to start the car without dipping the clutch. I was taught to do it back in the 80s as it 'reduced the load on the starter' by disengaging flywheel etc. All my moderns in recent times have required it, so feels very odd not to. As for the interlock on modern cars, I found out earlier this week that my Skoda Octavia will happily start in 1st gear and drive off - the clutch had failed and it was the only way to limp the car to the garage... Gully
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Worth noting that Richard Bliscoe (who advertises in The Courier) has all the various distance pieces available, so with the combination of those and the 3 thou spacer it should be relatively straightforward to achieve the specified half to 2.5 thou end float (without grease). Pete and I found it's as much feel as measurement when you get close! Gully
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My CV shafts came with the same nut and slot to peen the thin nut section into. I'd suggest you will need to check the end float - unless you can ensure on the bench that the rear flange / spacer / distance pieces dimensions to the hub seating position are the same between the old and new shafts. Of course, if you're replacing the bearings at the same time, you will need to set it all up from scratch... Gully
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Rotoflex GT6, radius arm bracket, which hole?
Gully replied to Adrian Saunders's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Mine are fixed in the lower holes. Gully -
The kit I bought from Paddocks had the plastic top cup washer referred to by Colin and within a short space of time the spring had pushed through it. That kit was also missing the metal cap that sits over the top of the Spring (which was missing from the previous installation I'd replaced 10 months beforehand). I bought the metal top cup washer and Spring cap as separate items from Canelys. Gully
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The hub splines had corrosion in the bottom of them when we removed the grease and they may have been damaged on another shaft at some point - nothing immediately apparent, but we didn't look too hard after the replacement hub fitted on the shaft as it should have done. Not sure if Nick has investigated more since? Gully
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All mine have black bezels except for the added Smiths voltmeter, which I've been meaning to paint for the past 6 years as it irritates me! Just not enough... Black is correct for the early Mk3 GT6 and I prefer it. Gully
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To be fair to the original assembler, they'd not scrimped on grease or black paint! The 'paperweight' hub photo shows it in its lightweight state following the removal of the paint from the drum mounting face. Just pleased it was a problem with the hub, not the shaft, and that I threw in my spare as an afterthought as I was leaving home! Got to have some luck sometimes... Gully
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Another vote for the Club Shop HT leads here (not the expensive ones!). They were on the car when I bought it over 6 years ago and are still going strong with no issues. Gully
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GT6. Headlinig/rear vents. Advice needed.
Gully replied to chrishawley's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Having looked at my car and the parts book diagram, the grill parts appear to fix directly onto the plastic duct, sandwiching the headlining, which does sit clear of the mill boards - you can press the headlining back away from the internal metal grill. The tension on the headlining means you can't see the float. Helpfully, the parts book doesn't show mill boards on the rear quarter, although I can feel them through my headlining! Gully -
Welcome! Good time of year to buy a convertible - prices are better (just bought the wife one 😀). Gully
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I've just been looking at the full picture on Canley's site and I don't understand why coolant poured into this cap wouldn't go into the hoses - it should flow across the top of the closed thermostat and into each of the connecting pipes, effectively filling the block from the bottom up. Then, when the thermostat opens, the water is released from the block to circulate through the housing back into the radiator. Has the thermostat been installed incorrectly (or the wrong thermostat) so it's blocking the housing in some way? The GT6 handbook sets out the cooling system filling step by step - does the 1500 Spit handbook do the same? Gully
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Yep - I have a pass to come and drink coffee! 😀 Gully
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I bought a full set of shims from rbmobileclassics on eBay - including replacing the one we used on rebuilding my o/s hub. However, he's not listing any at the moment. The seller, Richard Briscoe, also advertises in the back of The Courier magazine - he's the second listing under Parts 4 Sale on page69 of the August edition, immediately beneath Mike Papworth. If you have the option of building the replacement shaft / hub separately, including a new banded rotoflex coupling, then that's some benefit for reassembly. However, if you're not replacing the coupling, then you'll probably not gain much. How much play do you have? Is the bearing rumbling? Gully
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Ours Triumphs were built by Midlanders and a few by the folk of Merseyside! Mention a robot and another strike would have ensued! 😂 Gully
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Fitchett's list the Mk3 bonnet as available if the combination of accident damage and rust is too much. One of the local group here who is restoring a GT6 arrives at every meeting with a list of questions and wanting to take photos of complete examples to remind him how to reassemble his puzzle, so will reiterate the need to take photos before disassembly. You'll probably need to split chassis and body to complete the restoration - there's plenty of advice on here as to the best way to do that without creating a nightmare of panel gaps or a heavily compromised bodyshell folding up! Gool luck! Gully