Gully

Something sounds wrong there. Have you measured the springs you've fitted eye to eye to check the length is correct? I think the correct dimensions are in the Triumph WSM. I ran a half inch lowering block when my new spring was first on the car, but removed it after around 5000 miles. I could have got away without it from the outset - had nowhere near the camber issue you are describing. Gully

Having bought new Type 16 calipers 3 years ago, I'm about to have my old proper Girling ones remanufactured (refurbished!) by the imaginatively named Brake Caliper Refurbs. Heartily sick of the new ones not self adjusting. The refurbished calipers and new ones were about the same price when I went for new - it was a bad decision! Gully

Good looking GT6 there - I do like Saffron Yellow. Mine started off its life that colour, but the PO changed it to Mimosa. Another vote for 175/70 R13 tyres from me. I run 5J Minilites with Toyo tyres but too late with that recommendation! Gully

Just a thought - there are various holes / ports from the carbs to the inlet manifold. Have any been obstructed when re-mounting the carbs? Gully

Well that's disappointing. Wonder what the offer will be against the remainder of my subscription? Not opened the latest edition yet, so there may be something in there - hopefully not a voucher! Gully

My GT6 ran OD with a 3.27 diff when I first had it. I found the OD was only ever used on 60 and 70 mph roads, plus 1st was pretty tall (even though that would have been standard for a non OD car). I'm much happier with the 3.63 diff I'm running now - better acceleration, OD is used more often on 3rd and 4th, but still relaxed cruising on dual carriageways and motorways. Gully

My dash eyeball is cold only - there's a voltmeter in the driver's one! Gully

So today saw the cancellation of Wellesbourne Wings and Wheels, where Herts & Beds were headed in June. July's Royal International Air Tattoo is also off. 2020 really is becoming unsociable! I do like the FBHVC's call for us all to make the most of Drive It Day by taking our cars out, but not socially interacting! The 'pay at pump' garage forecourts are becoming more attractive too! Gully

I read on another forum that leaving the top cover breather open when the OD has sufficient breathing for the gearbox and OD leads to excessive oil leakage. No idea if it's true! Mine has both and leaks a little from the top cover. Gully

Best to chip the fresh paintwork yourself early on - saves all that worrying someone else is going to do so! 😂 Gully

When I first had my GT6 it ran a D type OD with a 3.27 diff. It was a fabulous cruising car, but lacking on initial pull away. Also, the OD really only got used from 60 mph upwards. I swapped to a 3.63 diff and have never regretted it (aside from being fleeced on the original 3.63 build by a cowboy!). Gives a good balance of acceleration (albeit slower than an original OD car with 3.89 diff) with good cruising revs. Gully

Another thumbs up here for cruise control - particularly useful in the miles of average speed check motorway roadworks we seem to have across the country. Been to Coventry and back today - more of the M1 is 50 or 60 mph than 70. At least it was flowing well, which makes a change. Gully

Think the last 'proper' sticker was this one in 2014 - the mock tax disc since then (which I personally don't like as I have a 1970 period one for the car already). Gully

I have his black vinyl seat covers - great quality. Gully

What was the wheel bearing advisory for? Excessive play, or 'rumble' from wear? The former is a typical 'modern' MoT result from someone who doesn't understand taper bearings! Assuming the front wheel bearings are the same set up as the GT6, then no special tools required. The races tap out (and in) and I've not needed a puller to remove the bearings from the stub axle - only a light interference fit. Club shop sells bearing packs with the correct felt seal and cup - there are some oddities around. Gully

I changed from the bog standard sealed beam look alikes (with removable bulbs!) to crystal lights with the same bulbs and it made a significant improvement to the effective brightness of the headlamps. Well worth doing for c. £30 - £35 and half an hour's work. Gully

Another twin Wanner user here! My Dad's one from the early 60s for grease and an autojumble purchased identical one for EP oil. No issues with leaks from the guns, but when I bought the car it only had the one grease nipple, so I bought another. The new one is a pig as it takes significant pressure to open - the original one is much easier and tends to get swapped between uprights. I don't fully jack the front of the car, but do take some of the load off. Made an oil catcher from a 4pt milk container! Gully

To turn the cupboard into a fridge?! Gully

As Herts Highways decided to grit / salt the roads for the first time on Friday night since the summer ended, I guess winter is here! Despite that, it was great to see a GT6 and TR3 in the car park at Duxford today for their Remembrance Sunday event. As the roads were dry by the time I arrived home from Duxford at 3:45pm, I took my GT6 out for a spin in the gathering darkness - lovely sunset and mists rising from the fields, with a nearly full moon bright in the sky. The tendrils of fog around Deacon Hill above Pegsden were spectacular! Gully

3633L and its pair (3633R) were originally Triumph 2000 1973/74 European fitment - 150CD-3 with B5DG needles and Blue springs. Gully

Yep - need the heater in mine now all the bulkhead holes and tunnel gaps are sealed. Gully

If it's fine at higher revs, I wouldn't have thought the pump was to blame - before pitching in and changing things I'd have a look at the choke arrangements on the carbs. When I first had my GT6 I had to adjust the throttle cam to get satisfactory starting as there was insufficient throttle for the rich mixture for it to catch cleanly. Gully

Yes, copper pipe connects to my fuel tank too. Gully

Canleys stock metal upper cup washers and Spring top covers - available as single parts as opposed to the kit. I think the spherical is still nylon though. I bought the metal parts 4 years ago to replace the nylon cup washer that the spring forced through in only 6 months. Gully

The counter-argument here is obviously why would a mechanic work in a classic based business when they can easily earn more in a franchised or main stream 'modern' dealership charging £80-£130 per hour? Why should we as classic owners expect to pay less for our classics than our moderns? The reason we are reluctant is the same reason so few of these cars survive - they reach the point when replacing is cheaper than keeping. If people choose not to use the specialists we have, then they will disappear and all that will be left are the top end restoration businesses accessible to the few with deep pockets and cars worth 10 times ours. Gully