Gully

Worth looking at the John Brown Wheels website - there are plenty of options available on there and they are very helpful if you speak with them. Both sets of Minilites I've had have been tapered nuts. From recollection, either Cosmic or Revolution alloys featured the nut and washer - JBW do copies of both and the appropriate nuts. Gully

QuickNick's looked better than mine before refurbishing! 😂 Mind you, I don't really hold with cleaning stuff under the bonnet - particularly when it's working fine! Gully

Welcome! Gully

My GT6 prefers BP super unleaded - it has expensive taste! 😀 I always use a super or premium unleaded - higher octane and apparently no ethanol. Gully

Front of my GT6 used to run too much camber and over 13,000 miles in my ownership it did wear the fronts unevenly (by around 1.5mm comparing inside and outside of the tread). I replaced the tyres down to age, not tread depth. So it's a slow action. Compare that with the rear tyre that was running too much toe when I first had the car - it was at the tell-tale limits in under 4,000 miles from essentially new. There's a lot of advice across different online fora about whether the book camber values are still relevant to modern wider radial tyres on our cars. Many argue that zero camber or even slight negative camber is more appropriate. I reduced mine to around 1.0-1.5 degrees positive before putting the new front tyres on! I did remember to reset the toe! Gully

Bigger car = more plants! 😂 Gully

Resurrecting this thread... Anyone found a solution yet, please? I'm getting bored with having to pull the pads out of mine, pump out the pistons and then push back to the point where I can just get the pads in to recover sensible pedal travel. I still have the original Girling Type 16P calipers in a box (albeit looking a bit scruffy after 2 years in the darkness) - is it worth getting a seal kit, or seal kit and new pistons, to re-build them? Thanks, Gully

11/16 are listed as NLA on all the websites I've checked - Rimmers, Canleys, Moss, Paddocks. Rimmers sell a kit to convert to 7/8 which includes the new size fixings. May be worth a call to see if Spitfire Graveyard has a good 11/16 ARB before going that route. Gully

Did you have an opportunity to walk out into the forest to the Jim Clark memorial? Gully

I'm sure you won't be disappointed - I have Owen's sear covers and foams in my GT6, along with door cards. Great quality. Gully

I think the odd shower referred to is us lot! Gully

Is the breather connected at the filler cap? The tank vents via the neck of the filler cap assembly - should be a breather pipe running from there (above the pipe joining filler to the tank) down through a grommet in the boot floor. Also worth checking the seal on the sender unit - mine had a habit of leaking when I fully filled the tank until I reseated it. Gully

Have you checked the rack isn't slipping in its mountings? Gully

There are some flabby TRE gaiters out there - one of mine just touches the disc (and we're talking practically no resistance to a piece of paper slipped between it and the disc). If I swap it to the other side it does exactly the same - and they're NOS ones fitted last year. I do look at it occasionally, but not yet seen a mark on either the gaiter or disc after 1000 miles. Gully

The benefit comes from the difference between input and output tax amounts - one based on costs, the other the perceived sale price - and the VAT status of a membership magazine. Gully

I put 4 new 175/70 R13 Toyo tyres on my GT6 about a month ago - seem to grip the road nicely and are quieter than the Avon front, Hankook rear combination I was running. Much lighter steering too! Bought via Blackcircles. Was going to go for the Falken option (often run my moderns on Falkens), but couldn't justify the extra £12-£14 per corner for the 3000, mainly dry miles I do each year. Gully

Can't get to the near side of mine under the car port, but measuring the offside I've just over 6cm clearance between tyre and bulkhead in the area of your marks - that's with 13x5J wheels and 175/70 R13 tyres. If my tyre travelled in a straight up deflection courtesy of a pot hole, it would clip the inner lip of the wheel arch before getting near the bulkhead. As JohnD has indicated - you must be getting a significant amount of rearward deflection in particular circumstances to cause the interference. Are you on Sunday's bunker run? If so, we can compare geometry - something seems awry still. Gully

Good stuff - my GT6 run in the sun yesterday was down the M1 to Hemel to drop my skis off for waxing, then back via the A1 as the M1 northbound was stuffed! Gully

My solid state electronic one needed to be attached to something to earth it - I simply unscrewed the clamp knurled nut from the accessible side of the speedo, popped the stabiliser onto the thread the ran the nut back on. Works a treat. Gully

Welcome! What made you swear off classics in the past? Gully

According to the parts books and manuals, my early Mk 3 has the Mk 2 standard system (albeit in stainless steel) - standard back box, but without the centre silencer / resonator added on the Mk 3. Wouldn't want a louder set-up! Gully

Welcome - and get that roof off! 😂 Gully

Hope you have a successful day! Gully

eBay - RB Classics. The chap's details are also in the Courier magazine under RB Mobile Classics, specialising in rotoflex rebuilds. Gully

My Minilites need a refurb, but JBW had a 25% off Black Friday deal last year and it worked out cheaper to replace than refurb! Gully