Pete Lewis Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Surely theres still high frictional loads on cams and buckets, ohv only removes the rubbing rockers and pushrods and some ohc still use a rocker of sorts puzzled pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Dave V, very good article on Buckeye Triumphs about silicone vs dot 3/4 etc brake fluid. Covers the point you make. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 I am going to stick with the advice from the wonderfully experiened members on this forum. Not a wordy piece of psuedo science which solved my insomnia after page 3. Where's the table of comparisons, or the simple conclusions. Let me know and I will skip to them. All I want to know is, does it work, is it any good for our cars, and how much does it cost. Got better things to do than read stuff like this.. like changing the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Doug, Thanks for the link. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Millers Pistoneeze 20w/50 is on offer today only for £26.50 at Frosts. Don't know if its a good price or not. http://www.frost.co.uk/millers-oils-classic-pistoneeze-20w-50-multigrade-engine-oil-5-litres.html Url may expire tonight at end of offer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Good flag, but having just checked the link it now appears to be out of stock. I have not called to confirm. Pistoneze is the new logo for Millers previous 20W/50; not sure why they changed it - as at first it did lead to some confusion giving the impression it was running-in oil !! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Just phoned Frost and they have received a new batch this afternoon. Price is now £26.48.......................postage £5.95 Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Quick check on Ebay and Opie Oils will do it for £26.49.................plus free delivery. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-Classic-Pistoneeze-20W-50-Mineral-Engine-Oil-5-Litres-5L-/171316809653?epid=1381241602&hash=item27e3470fb5:g:GdAAAOSwaB5XqJ81 I use the Opie Oils often and find their despatch speed excellent along with decent prices. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Think I'll stick to running whatever 20/50 the club shop has on offer. The engine's 40 years old and I'm sure has survived worse treatment than a couple of thousand miles a year 'normal' road use between changes! Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 I,ll churp in wid me findings owa the years 1, tried some 10-60 Castrol Edge, fully synth, right away, oil pressure was down 10 PSI, got even worse at higher oil temps, 100 ish down t,40 PSI at 4k revs, and 30 at 2000 no only that, but used 4 litres ona 600 mile round trip, And, a week later, me beloved cam went belly up, 4 lobes, gone cam followers too, never again, plus the gap is just too bigg for comfort, like a 50 gap,!!! 2, used Commas and others 20'50 mineral oils, they OK for tootling aboot give em some serious stik, like sustained high revs for a few hours, they brek doon v v v fast indeed so much so, oil pressure can drop 20 PSI in a month. yikes. 3, ran some Penrite stuff, 20/60, oil press stopped good, even whenst hot., butt did tend t,drop off a wee bit, 10 PSI ish after 3K miles 4, got some R20 /60 fully PAO synth stuff for a go, as it were a low price t,let me try it its got 2,200 PPM , and this stuff just dont go off, even at high temps, and 3K plus miles, its still as fresh an as high a PSI reading as whenst bunged in, been useing it noo for 2 yers, never use owt else from noo on The flat tappets an cam really need a good thick oil I think, no cam gone wid this stuff, but ev done cams in wid others 20'50 and a 10/60 full synth Same too for their GB oils, they last, dont go off like all other ive tried, look at the oil after a 100 mile blat at W1+ and its still fresh, an fresh after 3K miles not blak, an like a thin pish like all the others they just broke doon wid the 200 ish deg heat that was in the diff Re the graphs earlier on, some thing no right aboot them, like a 20 W oil is same viscosity as a 50W oil at 100 degs, errr noooooo, I say. granted they better at lower temps, but is thinner oil better wid flat tappets. Look at the Yanks an their V8 flat tappets, they wont run it thin, UNLESS they running full roller valve train. that says some thing, as the horror stories on likes of ST was vast and this coming frae engine builders too/ As to it teks time t,get around the engine, I got a Markusump fitted, fully oils me engine in secs like 40-60 PSI befoer it even started up, great it is. M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 On 8/23/2017 at 9:00 PM, GT6M said: ********* Re the graphs earlier on, some thing no right aboot them, like a 20 W oil is same viscosity as a 50W oil at 100 degs, errr noooooo, I say. M Hi, No such thing as 20W or 50W at 100 C . I have re-uploaded below. 50 has a higher viscosity compared to a 20 @ 100 C. 50 will create a higher back pressure than a 20 at 100 C and will have less flow. Cheers, Iain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted August 26, 2017 Report Share Posted August 26, 2017 In 1973 I bought a new Toledo which indecently was gutless when compared with a new 13/60 I had in the 1967. However, the Toledo engine did 125,000 miles before I pulled it out in 1992. All the bottom bearings had worn out. However, the bores and top end were still in good condition. At that stage I changed every thing to 1500 with 85 BHP available. But that's another story. The point being I ran the engine on 15/40 Superlube. The interesting thing is the oil pressure would start to reduced when the mileage got over 3,000 miles and that's when I used to change the oil. The point being there is nothing wrong with using the original mineral oil as long as you change it regularly. 125,000 miles on a 1296 large crank engine was OK my me. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted August 26, 2017 Report Share Posted August 26, 2017 Hi, Dave. Yes, mineral oil will lose the top end viscosity rating when worn and will need replacing. Proper synthetic oil will not lose oil pressure as you experienced as it was a 40 to begin with and chemicals were added to make it a 15 at lower temperature. Your 15W40 oil started as a 15 and chemicals were added to make it a 40 at 100 C., these additives broke down and your oil became a SAE 15... Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted August 27, 2017 Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 Ian, Spot on. As you say the 40 is achieved by processing the oil and not by mixing different grades of oil. The breakdown is when the oil starts to come part. The more stop start journeys the more rapid the breakdown. The problem with using a synthetic oil in an engine that has been using mineral oil for some time is the seals may lose their form. The point being if you have been using mineral oil in your classic engine don't change to synthetic. Just change it every year. That's the feedback I have had from an oil research chemist. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 27, 2017 Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 Think of oil as a yearly service at the bare minimum. I've had modern cars that had oil changes every six months or so - I used to do a lot of miles - and the body fell apart around the engine. (My Rover 213S had 177000 miles on it and the engine was as good as new but held in place by metal confetti). I'm not using the Triumphs as much as I should these days but first thing they get after the winter layup is fresh oil and filter, and sometimes even towards the end of the show season too if it's been a busy year. Balance the cost of the oil against the cost of engine repairs and it makes sense. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted September 6, 2017 Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Hi, Millers oil sampling kits have arrived. 6 Liters Mobil1 FS 0W/40 oil arrived days ago from Opie oils. I am unable to run my engine at the moment as my Kenlowe died and having a bad time with a replacement fan due to bull-crap advertised figures. Once I am able to drive the car, I will take it to work to get engine up-to operating temperature and take a sample of the used oil. (5w40 NT Millers GpV). I will N-rig an oil pressure gauge and post oil pressure @ 900/2000/4000 RPM and time for oil pressure light to extinguish in morning, post prior to dumping oil. Of course I hope my engine is OK and the new API SN oil is not going to cause damage. I'm guessing the ferrous content will tell the truth on the second oil test 3000 miles later? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 7, 2017 Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 I'll look forward to the reports from Miller's, Ian. Although what they will prove, I'm not sure. Please interpret them - I'm sure you will! For anyone wanting to know more about oils, I can recommend a small book, "Which Oil?" by Richard Michell, from Veloce Publishing, which is especially about non-moderns. https://www.veloce.co.uk/shop/products/productDetail.php?prod_id=V4365&prod_group=Performance Tuning & Modification& My own experience, old and new, is that synthetics are not suitable for 'our' engines, or possibly for their owners. I've raced and ruined a number of engines that I build myself (one lasted ten years!), and have learnt a thing or two in doing so. When I put synthetic in a newly built engine, I could not live with the low oil pressure, and replaced it with good old 20-50 mineral. My newest engine I 'broke-in' with some fancy Lucas "break-in' oil, that was SAE 30, and while it started at 70psi, dropped the oil pressure when hot to 20. Now it has my favourite Valvoline racing, 20-50W, the pressure stays at 50+ even when at full heat, and I'm happy. Agree with Colin: oil is a disposable maintenance component. Modern oils are designed to run in low-maintnenance moderns, built to satisfy fleet owners by only needed servicing at 20,000 mile intervals, and contain lots of expensive detergents, antioxidants, viscosity modifiers etc. to prolong the oil's life. But it's time as much as mileage that ages oil, and the best recommendation for a car that does less than 6K a year, as many classics do, is an annual oil change, so these long-life additives are not necessary, and a cheaper mineral oil will do as well. Ian, a daily driver of his classic and doing at least 15K , is an exception, and if he's happy with synthetics, so am I, for him. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 For those who wnat synthetics, Eurocar ahve a special offer, 35% off for this weekend: http://www.eurocarparts.com/engine-oils John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Just to resurrect an old but hopefully not-dead-yet thread.... I've been offered a stock clearout of Castrol GTX by a friend, it's around a dozen containers mostly A3/B4 part-synthetic 10 - 40 with one litre of A3/B3 15-40. Any good for a Triumph Herald, or should I steer clear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTV8 Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Your car, your choice, but I wouldn’t use it in my Triumph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Hi, The 10W40 is great for the weather conditions around now. If it was free, I would be putting it in my Triumph. Andy, Why would you not use it in your Triumph? Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTV8 Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Because it isn’t a mineral 20/50 with a decent level ppm of Zn in ZDDP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Hi Andy, Mineral oil and 20W50? Not what I would recommended during winter or any other time to be honest. ZDDP was replaced by better additives a long time ago. Never heard of Triumph engines having problems due to the lack of this additive. I haven't. Please share. Cheers, Iain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Oh blimmy, here we go again! Would all new contributors start this thread from the beginning before sounding off?!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 16, 2017 Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 The eBay link for the millers oil has expired, but the Opie Oils website has it in stock. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-79227-millers-oils-classic-pistoneeze-20w-50-mineral-engine-oil.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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