Looking for a spitfire

[Waynebaby]

Finding the drain orifice from the main cooling gallery can be very trying. The hole is situated between 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock up behind the where the drain plug screws in. Blindly poking with a bit of bent wire in the hope of hitting the drain hole is the best you can manage I’m afraid. I only got mine clear when I took the head off and found it from the other end (having first sucked out a cupful of crud!)

[dougbgt6]

Chris,

Yes, what Pete and Wayne said. Don't worry if you can't clear it, it really won't hurt the engine to stay blocked. My block has the black grit which I'm told is casting sand and has been there since the block was cast. Just make a note for when you eventually take the head off to poke it out from above.

Doug

[chris.eg]

Ok. I'm looking at ordering some parts off Rimmer Bros.

1. A service kit (air filters, oil filter, fan belt, plugs, points and condenser)

2. Thermostat GTS104

3. Thermostat gasket

4. 2x engine mounts

5. 5 litres of Castrol 20w50 - is there a cheaper oil I can use that'll be good enough?

The other thing I'm considering adding to this list, but only if it's needed, is a water pump as there is some play in mine (but not leaking) so I guess it's on the way out?

Is there anything I should add to/remove from this list?

Presumably it's fairly important that I get that hole unblocked now that there's soda in there. I really don't much want to take the head off though 😕

[Anglefire]

If the pump has play in it, I would change it now as once you've put £30 of antifreeze in, and it does fail (And antifreeze is searching) you will kick yourself!

Castrol is fine - Halfords classic is also not bad - Clive I think says its good for engines not hard driven - I'm sure he will comment! @clive

Make sure as I think Pete has already said, that the stat has a hole and a jiggle pin in it and is not plain.

9 minutes ago, chris.eg said:

Presumably it's fairly important that I get that hole unblocked now that there's soda in there. I really don't much want to take the head off though 😕

Not really as has been said. Many are blocked from new.

[dougbgt6]

Chris,

Rimmers are famously expensive, check prices on Canley Classics and James Paddock. Halfords do a Heritage 20/50 which is adequate. Recommending oil on here is a minefield! Do a thread search on oil.

Doug

[Anglefire]

I use both Canley classics and James Paddock - both been good - Canley don't tell you the postage until the end from memory - but is usually reasonable.

[chris.eg]

I'll replace the water pump then. When you say 'not driven hard' what do you mean by that? Mine will be used for a variety of journeys, including some on motorways. Probably not 'exercised' in the same way I imagine some were in the past though...

Re the thermostat, the one on Rimmer Bros - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GTS104 doesn't seem to have a hole in, unless it's very small?

18 minutes ago, Anglefire said:

Not really as has been said. Many are blocked from new.

I understand that, but unless I can drain the block I'm going to end up with soda left in there, surely? That can't be good...

[dougbgt6]

No, the drain plug is in a reservoir to one side and lower than the water jacket, if it's sealed off with crude no soda is going to get in and remain. And flushing will get all the soda  out of the main water jacket.

Doug

[poppyman]

9 minutes ago, chris.eg said:

I'll replace the water pump then. When you say 'not driven hard' what do you mean by that? Mine will be used for a variety of journeys, including some on motorways. Probably not 'exercised' in the same way I imagine some were in the past though...

Re the thermostat, the one on Rimmer Bros - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GTS104 doesn't seem to have a hole in, unless it's very small?

I understand that, but unless I can drain the block I'm going to end up with soda left in there, surely? That can't be good...

Re the thermo stat. If there is no hole in it? Just drill an eigth inch hole in it.

Tony.

[chris.eg]

Just now, dougbgt6 said:

And flushing will get all the soda  out of the main water jacket.

So if I flush from the lower radiator hose up to the thermostat housing it should get all the nastiness out?

[Anglefire]

I do wonder the purpose of the hole. I mean I know it’s so air can get through - but when the engine warms up the stat opens anyway. Or am I missing something?

[Anglefire]

5 minutes ago, chris.eg said:

So if I flush from the lower radiator hose up to the thermostat housing it should get all the nastiness out?

I back flushed through from the heater end too. 

[Clive]

OIls. For a car that is not drive hard/fast, any classic oil will do. It is what they had when new, but change once a year or 3000miles, whichever come sooner. The club does Heritage oil I think, that will be ideal. As will halfords/comma/wilco classic oil.

If a car is used for fast motorway journey, lots of big hills, or whatever, use a better oil. VR1, millers CSS (brilliant stuff,) but they are twice the price. Still, cheap as they last way longer and don't degrade. anywhere near as much.

Parts. There is a lot of poor quality parts out there. Water pumps that have very short lives is a real issue. "Classiclife" postedon here a while ago about a company who rebuild pumps and offer a lifetime warranty, something that appeals. Slightly more than a new cheap pump, but probably much better value long term.

Other parts, wort scouring ebay or wherever to find genuine old stock parts. But beware new stuff in Lucas boxes, it is often poor quality (the only thing Lucas about it is the name, Lucas just outsource EVERYTHING to lowest bidders worldwide....)

 

BTW you want to get the water free flowing out the block drain. It will require some poking etc, and then as per my previous post, flush by pressinghose against it. And yes, blocked steel tubes under the cars etc can cause heater failure. But the water to/from the heater valve should feel hot. Warm will not be enough, compare it with other hose temps.

[dougbgt6]

Chris,

Yes.

Clive,

No amount of poking,  pressing hose, or indeed pressure washer would shift my drain plug blockage, casting sand becomes rock solid black stuff. Head off and poking from above may be the only way. But, it's low priority, until the next time the head's off. If Chris can't shift it, it's not a problem, except he can't drain his block from the drain plug. 

Doug

[Clive]

A bit unusual being that bad, but guess it is sometimes. Hopefully Chris will have better luck. Bits of wire have always worked for me.

If it doesn't open up, it will be a case of refill, run and drain water a couple of times to get all the flushing agent out.

Just thinking back to when I did a full head off strip to my Vitesse. Got a baked bean can full of scale out the engine! It the first one I had done like that, really surprised me. The engine wa only 20 years old at the time. But sitting dormant for several years. 

[Colin Lindsay]

14 hours ago, Anglefire said:

I do wonder the purpose of the hole. I mean I know it’s so air can get through - but when the engine warms up the stat opens anyway. Or am I missing something?

A layer of air under the thermostat will delay opening, so the small hole is really just to get any residual air out without affecting the operation, and the jiggle pin keeps it clear of blockages. 

Re oil: Comma Oil is good, and cheaper than some, but check Tescos, which can often be a source of surprisingly cheap Castrol GTX. 

[Anglefire]

8 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

A layer of air under the thermostat will delay opening, so the small hole is really just to get any residual air out without affecting the operation, and the jiggle pin keeps it clear of blockages. 

Ah that makes sense. Jiggle pin and blockages makes sense too - but also could be just to give a small flow. Mind you isn’t the jiggle pin arranged so the ball (which I assume is hollow) floats and closes the hole when the water is full? So your logic is even more logical!

[Pete Lewis]

The ball is solid,  not all have the jiggle pin,  nor a foggle toggle ,

Its main purpose is to aid filling avoiding any air locks in the housing

Trapped wind is a problem .

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

Back to the restoration thread again?

It's rare for a thermostat to be absolutely air / water tight; it's not like an engine valve. Once it opens there's a greater flow but even when closed a trickle escapes through.

[poppyman]

59 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

The ball is solid,  not all have the jiggle pin,  nor a foggle toggle ,

Its main purpose is to aid filling avoiding any air locks in the housing

Trapped wind is a problem .

Pete

That's on another thread Pete..............

[chris.eg]

10 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

surprisingly cheap Castrol GTX

Do you mean GTX  would be suitable? I thought that was only suitable for more modern engines?

Am I interpreting the stat conversation correctly that it might not matter that much if there's a jiggle pin? If it does matter, what's the best way to be sure before ordering?

[Anglefire]

Jiggle pin is not essential, but having a hole is very much desirable.

Castrol GTX has been around for as long as I can remember and was the oil of choice back when I first owned cars.

[NonMember]

Isn't the current GTX a thinner oil than it used to be? And even back in the early 1990s I found that GTX didn't work nearly as well as Duckhams for my Triumphs.

[chris.eg]

The thickest GTX I've seen was 15w40 but I think that's still too thin? Anyway, I'm thinking of ordering some comma classic oil from amazon which I hope will be ok. Then I'll change it at about 3000 miles and decide whether to use something better at that point. 

[poppyman]

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-classic-car-oil-20w50-5l/p/0342792

This stuff has good reports, and has all additives that our engines need. Someone told me it is the same as Halfords. I use it in one of my cars with no problem and keeps good oil pressure at tickover.

Tony.