chris.eg Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 21 minutes ago, poppyman said: https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-classic-car-oil-20w50-5l/p/0342792 This stuff has good reports, and has all additives that our engines need. Someone told me it is the same as Halfords. I use it in one of my cars with no problem and keeps good oil pressure at tickover. Do you think that's better than the Comma oil, or just another option? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Exactly the same spec Chris. It will probably be theirs anyway, just in a different package. Plus will save on postage Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 (edited) Iv'e used the Wilko stuff for a few years and it's always held good oil pressure (slightly better than a beez kneez oil, I tried!). I think I read that it was a bit low on zzzzd's though?. Probably fine in normal use?. Are your engine mounts causing a problem?. Mine have looked a bit dodgy for years, though still doing the job. Repro ones have a bad name I think?. Same with susp bushes. Mine looked knackered, (bulging at the ends), though if originals, are often fine for years where it matters (found this out after I replaced with Poly's). Just mentioning, as I think you are on a budget?. Dave Edited December 3, 2018 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris.eg Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 7 minutes ago, daverclasper said: Are your engine mounts causing a problem? It's not that they're causing a problem so much as I don't want them to fail and cause a load more expense. Drivers side in particular looks really bad to me, but I'll post a picture to see what you think later. I will only replace them if I need to, although I expect when you see the picture you'll say don't drive it till they're done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Dave, I noticed that! Halford Heritage 20/50 runs higher than Millers super duper. Doubtless an oil head will be along shortly to tell us why lower is better! Chris, The problem is new ones can be poor quality and don't last long, just months sometimes. Supplier recommendations are the thing, unfortunately I haven't replaced mine for 30 years and have no recommendations! Pictures would be good. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris.eg Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Hopefully the picture is good enough to see? They look on the verge of breaking to me 😕 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 If you are still after a cover Lidl have the top covers in this week 7.99 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 The engine mounts don't generally break - the metal and rubber separate and you get clutch judder (or that's how mine manifested). The engine won't drop as the V shape they're held in keeps them in place. Easiest thing to do is lever the engine with a pry bar and see if the mount separates. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris.eg Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 7 minutes ago, Gully said: The engine mounts don't generally break - the metal and rubber separate and you get clutch judder (or that's how mine manifested). The engine won't drop as the V shape they're held in keeps them in place. Easiest thing to do is lever the engine with a pry bar and see if the mount separates. Gully In that case I'll probably leave them as they are for now and replace them if the car starts driving badly. At the moment it seems to drive really well so I guess they're OK. I might check with a pry bar anyway though. I'm also thinking about replacing the oil pressure and water temp sensors to be sure that they're reading correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 1 hour ago, chris.eg said: I'm also thinking about replacing the oil pressure and water temp sensors to be sure that they're reading correctly. Do they read? If so, leave them be and just get used to what is normal for your car. They are never more than indication as they aren't calibrated. If they don't work, then that is a different story! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Myself, I wouldn't change sensors, unless you thought there was a problem. Also repro/secondhand parts can be suspect. Also, then do you then replace the gauges in case they are suspect. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 You beat me to the punch angel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Agree with Gully, Mark and Dave! Gauges and sensors come as pairs, replace with the wrong one and THEN your in trouble! Replacement is not necessary unless they have obviously failed. If you suspect the temperature gauge you should also check the fuel gauge, both run off a voltage stabiliser which is a common thing to fail. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris.eg Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 27 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: If you suspect the temperature gauge you should also check the fuel gauge, both run off a voltage stabiliser which is a common thing to fail. Actually, that may be it. My fuel gauge has not shown full yet, despite filling to when the pump automatically stops. I wondered to start with whether that was because the shape of the tank made the pump stop too soon, but looking in the filler cap I don't think that's the case. What should the voltage from the stabiliser be? Do they sometimes not produce the correct voltage, or more of a works or doesn't sort of thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Either the mechanical type stabilizer (The original type) or the modern electronic type give out 10v. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Voltage Stabiliser should output around 10 volts, you should see this on one side of each gauge. The VS is physically located on the back of the speedo (why!) and fiddly to get at. Replacements are cheap enough, traditional or electronic. Electronic £10 on Ebay. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris.eg Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 In that case, I'll drop both sensors and engine mounts from my list and just get the service kit, thermostat (and gasket), water pump and some oil - probably the Comma off Amazon as I have one or two other things to get there anyway so postage will be free. Then, I'll investigate the voltage stabiliser and wiring behind the dash while I'm about it and get one off eBay if neccessary. Recently my battery seems to have been ok when I start the car (perhaps just that it's warmer) but a few times - and once persistently - the starter engages, turns the engine fairly smartly a couple of times, then disengages and whirs uselessly. Is this fairly normal considering age, bad solenoid or perhaps worn teeth on the pinion/flywheel? Really hope not the latter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Chris, A common fault is the Bendix is not moving freely on the starter motor shaft. There's a lot of muck in the bell housing and the shaft gets filthy. Clean it up, DON'T grease it, this just attracts more dirt. Graphite is a good lubricant, clean it up and then see where you are. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris.eg Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 7 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: A common fault is the Bendix is not moving freely on the starter motor shaft. There's a lot of muck in the bell housing and the shaft gets filthy. So is the starter probably never fully engaging? I assume that means damage to the teeth is being caused every time this happens, so best do something about it... Also, could someone confirm that if the engine mounts fail, there's unlikely to be major damage caused? I just really don't want to do a load of expensive damage 😕 Speaking of which, I guess I'd better have a look at the trunions and clean out a grease gun to oil them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Chris, No. The bendiix is not sliding up and down the shaft smoothly just clean it up, unlikely there's any damage to the flywheel. I think Gully has already said what will happen if the engine mounting rubber splits. You will know it's happened but no mechanical disaster. Yes, oil your trunnions. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris.eg Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Ok, I'll leave the engine mounts for now then and sort some of the other problems to be getting on with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 4, 2018 Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 11 hours ago, chris.eg said: a few times - and once persistently - the starter engages, turns the engine fairly smartly a couple of times, then disengages and whirs uselessly. I'm sure Doug's explanation is right but I'd always put this down to the engine firing once. The Bendix starter is designed to be disengaged by the engine spinning up under its own power. Normally, this happens as it starts and all is well. If, however, you get one cylinder firing a bit feebly but the next one not, the first will have disengaged the starter and then the engine stops. The starter is still spinning but the Bendix gear is withdrawn so it's doing nothing. Certainly, I've only ever had the problem on cars that tended not to "burst" into life. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 4, 2018 Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 I would say if its spinning and wont re engage its worth a wash , use something like petrol to wash the bendix and the pinion Graphite dust is a good idea, but when new they are fitted dry. No oil or grease ever. You can sand graphite from a pencil lead but dont get sanding grit mixed in with it use a wet and dry so particles of sand are well attached to the paper Do your trunions look to have been oiled , if they have been greased you need to make a job of remove caliper and hub/disc to allow to removal of the trunion to clean the grease out its an oil bath , grease wont work well Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 4, 2018 Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 Petrol will wash off the Bendix drive, but then how to dispose of a toxic, inflammable liquid? The best way is to burn it off in an old tin can, but that's smokey and involves fire. Brake cleaner evaporates much more quickly, leaving the dirt trapped on newspaper, or else any water soluble degreaser can wash it down the drain. You would have to go out any buy any of these, but they are so useful! And today, sanding down a pencil lead, Peter? Little pots of graphite powder are available as "lock lubricant". Just Google for 'graphite powder'. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 4, 2018 Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 My dad used to set fire to his brake shoes to get rid of contamination. Pete, I've got a little pot of graphite, I'll give you a thimble full for Christmas. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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