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n.thomas50@ntlworld.com

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Dear Neil,

This is like asking, "What is the best mother to have?"     

I'd say any reputable manufacturer.   Triumph recommended 20W50, and modern, low viscosity synthetics do not seem to suit, so go for that.

But no doubt if you want to start  a long thread, you have hit on a good subject!

John

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25 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Dear Neil,

This is like asking, "What is the best mother to have?"     

John

It's more like asking 'what is the best beer?" Everybody has their own personal favourite and reasons for it.

HOWEVER: re oil: I've always used Castrol GTX or in one case Comma 20W50 (am still monitoring it!), avoid the cheap motorfactors or Supermarkety stuff.

 

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What sort of driving do you do?

If pottering about, any classic 20-50 with a specification will do, and Pauld recommendation above is a fine choice.

If doing sustained high speed driving, or thrashing the car (which I applaud!) then something more robust would be wise.  For such use I can thoroughly recommend Millers CSS 20-60. There are other excellent, durable oils out there that far exceed what was used "back in the day"

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Avoid the cheaper brands sold in "gallon" cans with daft names such as "motorway" It's recycled rubbish ok for a flush or oiling your back gate. I have found very good reports on Wilko oil and i will be swopping to it when my 25ltr drum runs out.

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-classic-car-oil-20w50-5l/p/0342792   Apparently the same stuff as Halfords but a lot cheaper and a good spec.

 

Tony.

 

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I personally think our engines are so low tuned (unless modified of course) and so crude (ditto) that just about anything this side of cooking oil will do! I reckon more important is the correct grade and regularly changes but it can make you feel good to put in the expensive stuff.....

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The problem with cheaper oils is they don't maintain their grade when they get hot and/or extended use. More expensive oils put up with abuse so much better. (a std mineral oil, in a very low mileage, carefully built engine lost all oil pressure rather inconveniently in my toledo. Next crankshaft I used VR1, better. But the millers css lost very little pressure when very hot)

I believe mineral oils are based on the thin/low number in the spec, and additives give it the higher number. Synthetics are "made" the opposite way, so much less likely to over-thin.

But as I said earlier, it all depends how the car is used. 90% of cars are fine on a std 20-50 changed annually. 

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Dave, it is not the air temp, but when the oil gets hot (about 130 degrees) from a damn good thrashing. ie sustained 5000rpm driving or whatever. Many mineral oils go super-thin, and won't recover fully when cooled down.

But you are correct, it is absolutely fine for most people.

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As others have said, it depends on your driving style. You will need an oil that stays sufficiently viscous over a change interval - so avoid the cheap crap. As to what is "sufficiently viscous"... that depends on the condition of your engine. I mostly use Penrite 20/60 as I've found it holds up really well, except in the GT6, which has such high oil pressure that the '60' spec is too much. I've used Millers 20/50 in that and it seems good, but with a bit of oil consumption too I've sometimes gone for the "Comma" or "Heritage" stuff. Not tried Wilko.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got 4 cans of the Classic oil via fleabay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuzz-Townshends-Classic-Oils-Heritage-20W50-Engine-Oil-4-x-5-litres-Not-VR-1/153335661299?epid=5023994464&hash=item23b38482f3:g:f8cAAOSwa5lbo7E~

Had to wait a little while but finally bought them carriage free on a 10% off sitewide discount day, so a real saving. These site wide discount days appear to be coming round more and more. They are either 10% or 15% off, depending on your luck. Worthwhile collecting stuff you want but are not desparate for in your fleabay basket. Check every day at about 5pm as they sometimes run from 12noon (ish) to 8:00pm. Huge savings can be made on everything this way. I have also collected loads of stuff, parts, thinners, fillers etc this way, ready for my respray in the spring.

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Item location: Bicester, United Kingdom
Postage to: United Kingdom, Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Republic of, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Israel, Norway, Korea, South, Taiwan, Chile
Excludes: Channel Islands, Isle of Wight, Isle of Man, Scilly Isles, Scottish Highlands, Scottish Islands, Northern Ireland
This item doesn't post to Northern Ireland
 
Obviously he doesn't post to strange foreign countries where those strange exotic natives may try to rip him off, or may want to pay in untradeable currencies like glass beads or bits of sea shells..... :)
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8 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Obviously he doesn't post to strange foreign countries where those strange exotic natives may try to rip him off, or may want to pay in untradeable currencies like glass beads or bits of sea shells..... :)

In that case I'm surprised he posts to the UK :)

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On 29/12/2018 at 09:35, clive said:

Dave, it is not the air temp, but when the oil gets hot (about 130 degrees) from a damn good thrashing. ie sustained 5000rpm driving or whatever. Many mineral oils go super-thin, and won't recover fully when cooled down.

But you are correct, it is absolutely fine for most people.

Hi Clive. I was meaning that my engine runs hotter when stuck in traffic, so I thought this would make it a bit thinner? though not so much as giving it "a dam good thrashing" !.

Dave

Edited by daverclasper
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