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Changing diff oil


trigolf
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Can anybody actually confirm that the diff does actually contain a pint of oil from initial fill ?

I wanted to change the oil today and failed dismally trying to use an oil suction gun and some plastic pipe pushed well into the diff. I also had the car at an angle to encourage the oil to flow towards the level hole and had warmed it first by taking the car for a good run. I managed to retrieve about an egg cup full and no matter what I tried could not get any more out ! Before anyone says the obvious - no it was't empty ! I then levelled the car and put the oil back in with the suction gun and only managed to get the same amount, previously drained, back in before it started coming out again. I'm not going to bother drilling and tapping a drain plug into the diff case, as years ago I acquired a s/h diff case which is fitted with a drain plug, so I'll swap it over later in the year when I do a c/v conversion.

Gav

 

 

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Doug, you're probably right - I too have owned my Vit for over forty years. I recall that last time I replaced the diff and drained the old one prior to exchange that very little oil came out - certainly nothing like a pint - and it was up to the filler hole as per the book ! Grrrr !

Gav

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 Gav, get a drill an drill a wol in bottom of diff.

there a flat area where a plug used t,go on early cars.

 

drill a 1/4 or so wol first, then a bigger,n

try an get a sump plug of a gearbox, or better still 2, one for,t fill plug, this,l catch moer sheite than the sump plug will.

 G/B plug,, this cos  they got magnets in em,

then whenst wols drilled, tap it to size needed

 

there will be  little oil comes oot the drilled hole, but it wont gush oot.

then re fill wid 80/140 fully synth penrite gear oil, 20£ for 2 litres of  http://www.classicgroup.net.nz/product_pcid_344.html

or ringo starr Dave on 0739 159 0149

it dont go off like all the others doo

 

try,n t,suck the oil oot just dont work

as casing will moer than likely have a 1/4 inch of thick crudded baked on oil init, { ever took a sump off, modern or olde, its same stuff }

maybe even lots of mayonaise stuff, which then pits yer internals whenst they sitt,n in the stuff for ages

 

OIL is cheeper than a diff,, or a rebuild

 

 

 

M

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Thanks for confirming my conclusion guys. I'm glad I did'nt waste money buying an oil suction gun ( borrowed it from work ! ) Marcus - as I said, I picked up a spare rear case with a drain plug fitted quite a while ago so will swap it over later this year. Your suggestion of fitting a magnetic plug is a good one. I'll follow up on that and the synthetic oil too. Thanks everyone.

Gav

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  • 6 months later...

all sites say they are interchangeable, the design  difference being the  hex headed  magnetic needs a flat face to properly seal against with its collapsible  washer .

where as the square headed is tapered threaded and seals by being a tight fit in the threads so if it cant seat it will likely  leak 

the threads are supposed to be identical  rimmers have a pop up that states that

so where from here

Pete

 

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Not sure. The one I got from JP definately won't fit on the sump of the replacement Herald 13/60 engine on my Spit. That doesn't mean to say that there is not something weird with the sump. I will have to do something at the next oil change 'cause as I mentioned on another thread, the original plug is in a dreadful state. It was already as mess, it wouldn't come off, so having got a replacement, I took a set of mole grips and a hammer to it!!!

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The 114774 std taper plug is used on just about everything , being 1360 is of no consequence, imwonder if your sump pan has had a replacement collar  welded in at some time  even my 74 mk2 2000 has a std taper squared head plug in it 

Rimmers show the saloon as 22G2115 which is a allen keyed plug

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Purhaps you need one of these:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAGNETIC-Triumph-MG-Sump-Diff-Gearbox-Drain-Filler-Plug-114774-15560-/222983483896

or one of these:-

http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/magnetic_drain_plugs.html

These have the correct taper thread. Seems to be a lot of confusing information on various suppliers web sites; some list a plug which is 3/8 x 19 BSP (straight c/w sealing washer) whilst others list 3/8 x 18 NPT (tappered).

They can't both be right surely!

I'll stick with the ordinary non magnetic taper plug

David

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I have used a gearbox drain plug (hex head, magnetic) as sump plugs on several engines. No sealing washer, no leaks. And fitted the taper plug to the gearbox. So straight swap...

Some gearboxes have had tapered, non magnetic plugs when they have come into my hands. But most have the magnetic type.

Probably had 100 gearboxes through my hands over the years. So must be pretty representative.

If the sump is playing games, a good used one may be a wise move.

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