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Vitesse Mk2 2ltr Gearbox Tunnel


Mike Bird
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If the fibreglass one is a good one (they vary enormously, some have very wavy edges,) then pretty simple. Remove tunnel carpet (10seconds) and check that all the plates and hex head screws are currently in place, plus some fixings at the top corners at the front. 

This Rimmer's listing has a "picture" of the screws/plates.

Rather better are the abs tunnels, though they have too deep a lip on the edges.

As to insulation, a decent layer of felt or proprietary insulation can be glued on the topside of the tunnel (by that I mean between the tunnel and the carpet) plus attach the original insulation on the underside, possibly by drilling pairs of small holes and using wire or cable ties. Or glue proprietary heat insulation in place. Making sure the glues are suitable for high temperatures.

But vitesse's  are not terribly prone to heat from the tunnel. Unless poorly sealed at edges or from the gearstick gaitor. (Fibreglass tunnels don't usually have the hole cut, and that is no easy task. It eats saw blades in seconds. And they can be too thick to fit the gaitor. Worth checking before purchase)

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I’ve just fitted a new tunnel, I got it from Nigel Hook on tssc Facebook site, it fitted really easily, has an access hatch for oil topups, and the gear lever hole came precut and the gaiter was one of the easiest I’ve ever fitted, far better than the grp stuff I fitted in the past.

Heat insulation wise I got some foil faced mat, self adhesive and fully insulated the inside of the tunnel, all joint were then taped with aluminium tape.

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I used Silent Coat https://www.deadening.co.uk for my fibre glass gearbox cover , worked a treat and easy to apply . Use a heat gun to soften and a wallpaper seam roller to apply. The club sell a sealing kit , but not often I say this but it’s overpriced and not much good . Make a “door” by the gearbox filler for easy access.

The cover is easy to remove and a pain to put back 

Paul 

 

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I second the comment re the poor quality of the fibreglass covers, I spent a lot of time re-moulding the mating flanges to get them flat & in the right sealing position. Th covers were UK supplied & shipped so NOT cheap. I would definitely go for the poly units, available locally here in Aus for $190A. I would change them to poly but I have spent too much time & $ installing/moulding the aluminum/bitumen  heat sheets 

I can't remember problems cutting the holes in the fiberglass or chewing up the jigsaw blades, BUT I made a carbonfibre dash board for my daughters Spit Mk2 cutting the 2 big and 2 small instrument holes totally destroyed the cheap electric jig saw blades, I used 12 blades, the blades had no teeth left and were half the depth and cutting the round holes I wasn't going fast! Interestingly the tank hole cutters I used for the switch's & ignition fared a lot better. The same problem was experienced for the Oil, Voltmeter & cigar lighter mounted in a panel set into the radio hole..

Peter T

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The seal from most supplies is expensive and doesnt always take up all the wonk faces 

Simple is a slab of foam from dunelm or similar about 18mm thick  cut strips and glue to tunnel or body whatever suits you.

Cheap takes up wide gaps , stick with a can of carpet aerosol adhesive and easy to compress

Pete

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Recently refurbished my old glass fibre tunnel in my Vitesse, bought from J Kipping many years ago it had to be modified to fit, with self adhesive foil backed foam, sealed edges and joints with a glue gun which I also used to attach the seal.

As said above a wallpaper seam roller is very useful for fitting the insulation, foil backed foam on the inside and reused the felt under the carpet on the outside. 

The bulkhead clips where past it so used some clips marked for Fiat, sold in those blister packs, with guttering bolts.

Regards

Paul

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Mike

I got a polypropylene tunnel from the club shop, odd as it came with a Moss sticker and Moss sell them for £20 more. As Clive says the lip was too deep and I had to double up on the seal.  I used SilentCoat on the inside of the tunnel, but it's heavy stuff and has probably taken a few mph off my top speed. :lol:  A good idea is to cut a hole allowing access for gearbox top ups.

Doug

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Thermal insulation.

Anyone wishing to keep their passenger compartment cool should not spend anything on insulation, but work at stopping hot air from getting in from the engine compartment.    There is a lot in there as the radaiatopr puts out so much!    There are many holes in the bulkhead, that were originally sealed with rubber grommets, which have by now perished away.     Search for the gaps by putting the car in the relative dark of the garage, if you can, or choosing a warm evening (good time now!) and getting under the dash, while your assistant shines a torch at the bulkhead.     Of course, the seasoned Vitesse owner will send their assistant into the under dash area!     Seal all the holes with new rubber, or gaffer tape.

Then look at the seal between the gearbox cover and the bulkhead/floor.    This is the other way for hot air to get in, and it can need a thick strip of rubber foam to acheive a seal, and proper screws to secure the flange down.

If you can keep the hot air out, then heat while driving ceases to be a problem.      Fancy reflective insulators become unnecessary.

John

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Regarding g/box tunnel to floor mounting:

Ideally you should try and obtain closed cell foam (it can be purchased on line) rather than open cell, as closed cell is a better insulator.

Open cell will not stop fumes or heat ingress; however it is the most common foam and the type normally sold over the counter.

Regards.

Richard.

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23 hours ago, JohnD said:

Thermal insulation.

Anyone wishing to keep their passenger compartment cool should not spend anything on insulation, but work at stopping hot air from getting in from the engine compartment.    There is a lot in there as the radaiatopr puts out so much!    There are many holes in the bulkhead, that were originally sealed with rubber grommets, which have by now perished away.     Search for the gaps by putting the car in the relative dark of the garage, if you can, or choosing a warm evening (good time now!) and getting under the dash, while your assistant shines a torch at the bulkhead.     Of course, the seasoned Vitesse owner will send their assistant into the under dash area!     Seal all the holes with new rubber, or gaffer tape.

Then look at the seal between the gearbox cover and the bulkhead/floor.    This is the other way for hot air to get in, and it can need a thick strip of rubber foam to acheive a seal, and proper screws to secure the flange down.

If you can keep the hot air out, then heat while driving ceases to be a problem.      Fancy reflective insulators become unnecessary.

John

Or the other way just drive a car with a big hole to let the heat out, for example no roof.

Regards

Paul

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