Mike Bird Posted September 16, 2019 Report Share Posted September 16, 2019 Can anyone tell me how easy it is to remove and fit a new gear box tunnel. Also what is the best way to thermally insulate the new tunnel. I am looking at a fibreglass one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 If the fibreglass one is a good one (they vary enormously, some have very wavy edges,) then pretty simple. Remove tunnel carpet (10seconds) and check that all the plates and hex head screws are currently in place, plus some fixings at the top corners at the front. This Rimmer's listing has a "picture" of the screws/plates. Rather better are the abs tunnels, though they have too deep a lip on the edges. As to insulation, a decent layer of felt or proprietary insulation can be glued on the topside of the tunnel (by that I mean between the tunnel and the carpet) plus attach the original insulation on the underside, possibly by drilling pairs of small holes and using wire or cable ties. Or glue proprietary heat insulation in place. Making sure the glues are suitable for high temperatures. But vitesse's are not terribly prone to heat from the tunnel. Unless poorly sealed at edges or from the gearstick gaitor. (Fibreglass tunnels don't usually have the hole cut, and that is no easy task. It eats saw blades in seconds. And they can be too thick to fit the gaitor. Worth checking before purchase) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 I’ve just fitted a new tunnel, I got it from Nigel Hook on tssc Facebook site, it fitted really easily, has an access hatch for oil topups, and the gear lever hole came precut and the gaiter was one of the easiest I’ve ever fitted, far better than the grp stuff I fitted in the past. Heat insulation wise I got some foil faced mat, self adhesive and fully insulated the inside of the tunnel, all joint were then taped with aluminium tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 I used Silent Coat https://www.deadening.co.uk for my fibre glass gearbox cover , worked a treat and easy to apply . Use a heat gun to soften and a wallpaper seam roller to apply. The club sell a sealing kit , but not often I say this but it’s overpriced and not much good . Make a “door” by the gearbox filler for easy access. The cover is easy to remove and a pain to put back Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 I second the comment re the poor quality of the fibreglass covers, I spent a lot of time re-moulding the mating flanges to get them flat & in the right sealing position. Th covers were UK supplied & shipped so NOT cheap. I would definitely go for the poly units, available locally here in Aus for $190A. I would change them to poly but I have spent too much time & $ installing/moulding the aluminum/bitumen heat sheets I can't remember problems cutting the holes in the fiberglass or chewing up the jigsaw blades, BUT I made a carbonfibre dash board for my daughters Spit Mk2 cutting the 2 big and 2 small instrument holes totally destroyed the cheap electric jig saw blades, I used 12 blades, the blades had no teeth left and were half the depth and cutting the round holes I wasn't going fast! Interestingly the tank hole cutters I used for the switch's & ignition fared a lot better. The same problem was experienced for the Oil, Voltmeter & cigar lighter mounted in a panel set into the radio hole.. Peter T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 The seal from most supplies is expensive and doesnt always take up all the wonk faces Simple is a slab of foam from dunelm or similar about 18mm thick cut strips and glue to tunnel or body whatever suits you. Cheap takes up wide gaps , stick with a can of carpet aerosol adhesive and easy to compress Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 Recently refurbished my old glass fibre tunnel in my Vitesse, bought from J Kipping many years ago it had to be modified to fit, with self adhesive foil backed foam, sealed edges and joints with a glue gun which I also used to attach the seal. As said above a wallpaper seam roller is very useful for fitting the insulation, foil backed foam on the inside and reused the felt under the carpet on the outside. The bulkhead clips where past it so used some clips marked for Fiat, sold in those blister packs, with guttering bolts. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 Mike I got a polypropylene tunnel from the club shop, odd as it came with a Moss sticker and Moss sell them for £20 more. As Clive says the lip was too deep and I had to double up on the seal. I used SilentCoat on the inside of the tunnel, but it's heavy stuff and has probably taken a few mph off my top speed. A good idea is to cut a hole allowing access for gearbox top ups. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 Thermal insulation. Anyone wishing to keep their passenger compartment cool should not spend anything on insulation, but work at stopping hot air from getting in from the engine compartment. There is a lot in there as the radaiatopr puts out so much! There are many holes in the bulkhead, that were originally sealed with rubber grommets, which have by now perished away. Search for the gaps by putting the car in the relative dark of the garage, if you can, or choosing a warm evening (good time now!) and getting under the dash, while your assistant shines a torch at the bulkhead. Of course, the seasoned Vitesse owner will send their assistant into the under dash area! Seal all the holes with new rubber, or gaffer tape. Then look at the seal between the gearbox cover and the bulkhead/floor. This is the other way for hot air to get in, and it can need a thick strip of rubber foam to acheive a seal, and proper screws to secure the flange down. If you can keep the hot air out, then heat while driving ceases to be a problem. Fancy reflective insulators become unnecessary. John 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 Regarding g/box tunnel to floor mounting: Ideally you should try and obtain closed cell foam (it can be purchased on line) rather than open cell, as closed cell is a better insulator. Open cell will not stop fumes or heat ingress; however it is the most common foam and the type normally sold over the counter. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 Although John's method of finding the pesky culprits is pleasing, blitzing the bulkhead with SilentCoat has the same effect, and you don't need an assistant, or a torch. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 18, 2019 Report Share Posted September 18, 2019 Cheapest Silent Coat at Amazon, £15 for 10 of tiles 187x250mm (that's less than A4) Cost of a friend, priceless. John PS agree with Richard, but because closed cell doesn't absorb oil. Not that any Triumph has an oil leak, of course! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted September 18, 2019 Report Share Posted September 18, 2019 23 hours ago, JohnD said: Thermal insulation. Anyone wishing to keep their passenger compartment cool should not spend anything on insulation, but work at stopping hot air from getting in from the engine compartment. There is a lot in there as the radaiatopr puts out so much! There are many holes in the bulkhead, that were originally sealed with rubber grommets, which have by now perished away. Search for the gaps by putting the car in the relative dark of the garage, if you can, or choosing a warm evening (good time now!) and getting under the dash, while your assistant shines a torch at the bulkhead. Of course, the seasoned Vitesse owner will send their assistant into the under dash area! Seal all the holes with new rubber, or gaffer tape. Then look at the seal between the gearbox cover and the bulkhead/floor. This is the other way for hot air to get in, and it can need a thick strip of rubber foam to acheive a seal, and proper screws to secure the flange down. If you can keep the hot air out, then heat while driving ceases to be a problem. Fancy reflective insulators become unnecessary. John Or the other way just drive a car with a big hole to let the heat out, for example no roof. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 18, 2019 Report Share Posted September 18, 2019 Why didn't I think of that? Where's my can-opener? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 18, 2019 Report Share Posted September 18, 2019 1 hour ago, 68vitesse said: Or the other way just drive a car with a big hole to let the heat out, for example no roof. Regards Paul Isn't that assisting Global Warming? Keep it in the car and save the planet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted September 18, 2019 Report Share Posted September 18, 2019 55 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Isn't that assisting Global Warming? Keep it in the car and save the planet! Thought the planet had already gone to pot or is it just the UK. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 18, 2019 Report Share Posted September 18, 2019 Something like 5.7 million barrels of oil went up in Saudi Arabia a few days ago... so I don't think the heat from one Vitesse will make any overall difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 Its people that cause pollution not cars etc. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 2 minutes ago, 68vitesse said: Its people that cause pollution not cars etc. Regards Paul You mean the waste gases produced by humans rather than the waste gases from cars?💨 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 Cars only exist because of humans, take responsibility for the pollution you cause. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 I thought robots built them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 4 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: I thought robots built them? Ours Triumphs were built by Midlanders and a few by the folk of Merseyside! Mention a robot and another strike would have ensued! 😂 Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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