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GT6 restoration


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14 hours ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said:

Hi Brooky,

I too trained in the 1980's with MMA and Gas on pipelines coded, I seem to remember a hell of a lot of heat distortion on anything below 2mm sheet with gas.  How are you controlling it on yours ?

Looks good by the way.

Hello Alan, its gas mig Im using and spot welder where I can

cheers

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Nice work, got the same spot welder from machine mart on a vat free day some years back, friend borrowed it to put a replacement roof on a Riley Elf. I've also used when making some stainless steel bits, one of those tools I don't use for ages but very useful.

Best wishes for the restoration.

Regards

Paul

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The spot welder at nearly £700 is a serious piece of kit. Teeth must pay well Brooky.

At the end of the day the better the equipment the easier it becomes, but you need the skill/ knowledge to go with it.

Brooky, as I have said before really good work.

Just give me your address and I will drop my GT 6 around ☺️.

Graham

 

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On 16/06/2020 at 13:03, 68vitesse said:

Nice work, got the same spot welder from machine mart on a vat free day some years back, friend borrowed it to put a replacement roof on a Riley Elf. I've also used when making some stainless steel bits, one of those tools I don't use for ages but very useful.

Best wishes for the restoration.

Regards

Paul

Hi Paul yes I got mine on a vat free day too, certainly speeds things up on outside joints like mini sills and GT6 sills and panels. I also bought long arms for it as I used to make little toolboxes for Lambrettas, only sold enough to cover the cost of a guillotene and bender but they really come in handy for my car resto work. Cheers 

Iain.

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14 hours ago, Graham C said:

The spot welder at nearly £700 is a serious piece of kit. Teeth must pay well Brooky.

At the end of the day the better the equipment the easier it becomes, but you need the skill/ knowledge to go with it.

Brooky, as I have said before really good work.

Just give me your address and I will drop my GT 6 around ☺️.

Graham

 

Graham

Teeth pay ok, its the dentist that makes the money and takes all the credit lol

Its my hobby and dont mind spending to make life easier and some things look more professional spot welded, bought on a vat free day too so got the better model for the cheaper price 😎

Depending how work goes I might do some repair work for people but limited on space here lol

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15 hours ago, Graham C said:

The spot welder at nearly £700 is a serious piece of kit.

 

Once you start adding in the price of arms it can get a bit expensive, but then I only have to justify the expense to myself and I feel it will always have a decent second hand value.

£700.00, or to put it another way less than the petrol cost of four thousand miles in a Vitesse about eighteen months for me.

Unless my maths are wrong.

Regards

Paul

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Well a very tricky past few days, I was starting to fabricate the outer rear part of the lower inner arch to put the lower wing back. Looking at the inner arch, I thought thats strange, the outer part of inner arch had a rust line and weld to it but looking at the same section through the petrol hole it looked mint hmmm so I disc cut the whole of outer arch off, then cut the outer section of inner off, whoever restored this car, no words lol  theyd cut the outer part of old inner arch off then used a repair arch overlapping by nearly 100mm with no extra protection, riveted to hold in position and tack welded all round and then welded the new rear wing on and used sealant on the inner edge so when running your fingers round it would feel smooth. I could understand doing that if it was someone just trying to keep it on the road but this was a full restoration I have invoices and pictures for with new rear wings, however no pics of this ns being done now I know why. Unbelievable. Anyway its all sorted now  fully seem welded up after cutting to butt weld together and refitted the outer arch, just need to finish trimming up the welds. Amazing what you find 😮

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1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

Brooky - I wish that you had done the welding on my Spit when it was first re-furbed. What holds together looks rough what looked good fell apart and has been replaced!!

Sounds like someone did it not used to mig welding, it can be tricky on thin stuff, I think people try to go for the look of a weld which is good on new steel as it will look good, older steel mated to new stuff will still look good as long as its been cleaned up properly first. The key is penetration having enough power and feed wire, I do short bursts like a machine gun, gauging when its ready to blow through as the steel is getting too hot so stop for a few seconds and carry on. On outer panels same thing but use a wet towel to keep it cool. Theres always dodgy stuff done to cars lol

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On 19/06/2020 at 17:40, Brooky said:

Lower part of rear wing repaired and clamped in place to act as template to make the lower section of inner arch, had enough for one day though now 🥴🤣

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Love this, real labour of love. I wish mine was as good. 

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Door skinned and ready to fit after some nasty repairs. The bloke that restored this 30 years ago was good with lead loading, it hid all the rot nicely 🤣🤣 its thick with lead above the catch plate, all will be cut out once Ive repaired the other side

Happy Sunday everyone 😎👍🏻

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Howdy Ian yep looks just as bad lol 🤣 it is tricky, Ive just made up 3 panels that make up the outside two next to window and the connecting underneath post to rear wing which you dont see till youve cut out the outer sections, thats all just been welded in place after painting underneath. Ive just made the inside B post to window piece with a small addition it will be welded in soon as paints dried, then to that front bit youve made, Ill be happy then, probably the trickiest bit to do on these 👍🏻😎

 

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Just waiting for paint to dry on B pillar plates etc. Meanwhile I wanted to ask fellow GT6 mk3 owners, my new bonnet looks like this at the edge to the door. Ive done the drivers side but still needs some work adjusting the bonnet which Ill do when the passenger door is fitted. Anyway where the wing joins the bonnet top the edge doesnt look as though its been finished properly, Ive not got my old bonnet to check, can someone confirm it should be flatter as you can get a good gap but opening the door the edge catches on this bit

Thanks

Iain.

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The earlier cars are crimped tight like that because there's no perturbation in the reinforcement plate. Unless you've had to replace it, like on my Mk3 Spitfire, because the ones available now are the late type. This has a bulge just there, to accommodate the flange where the lower wing attaches on the square-tail re-design.

What surprises me a bit about the first image is that it clearly shows the flange in the background, so it really is a Mk3 type bonnet, but there's no join evident in the crimped-over bit, which ought to be lower wing up to where the bulge is, then top panel above that.

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