Iain T Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 Rather than fit the sensor in a hose adaptor has anyone tried a Y piece or similar in the head so that the temp and leccy fan sensors can be fitted. If I can help it I would rather not cut and fit an adaptor in the top hose. I currently have a sensor that pokes in the rad but am not happy with it. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 In this location. It looks like a 5/8 NPT thread? I have a Davies Craig controller and the sensor has a 1/4 NPT thread but not sure what the head and temp gauge sender is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 You could always try to adapt a thermostat housing, in the same way as early Heralds did. I've tried three options in the past: thermostat housing drilled and tapped for sensor, waterpump housing drilled and tapped for two sensors, and a sensor in the bottom hose using a rally-car-style adaptor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 Colin, I'll do more investigating. I thought the in line was supposed to be in the top hose? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 It's a matter of debate. You need to set a lower temperature threshold for a bottom hose sensor but it works fine as long as you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 27 minutes ago, Iain T said: Colin, I'll do more investigating. I thought the in line was supposed to be in the top hose? Iain Not necessarily, though more common. I think temp needs to be about 7 degrees lower in bottom hose, I used an 85 degree switch IIRC on my spitfire. I would be careful about position, water temp to the rad is a good call, but I guess the water pump housing should be OK. Trying to get my head around it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 I was always taught that the correct place for the switch was on the radiator outlet side as that way it’s actually measuring whether the radiator needs help or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 I have run my Vitesse for some years with a Revotec adjustable sensor in the bottom hose. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 For me it will be easier to use the Davis Craig sensor which has the plug to the controller. You just unplug the rad sensor and replace with the water sensor. I could fit this to either a hose adaptor or into the head or thermostat housing. I'll make a decision and just go for it, they will all work. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 You can get a combined temp sender and fan switch that screws into normal sender location. might be Fiat or Daihatsu? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 Attached two versions of rad fan switch install for a Spitfire and Vitesse, latter in top hose and uses stock in hose barrel nipple with 1/4in NPT thread, hoses are 2 modified Holden Gemini (Isuzu) that fit well. The Spitfire one I modified an early Spit/ 2000 thermo cover (with boss) drilling out and treading 1/4in NPT it's relatively large dia so I had to be very careful to ensure I kept enough metal to hold down bolt hole, latter fitted to daughters Mk2 Spit for elect fan auto control works very well and we have 3 different ranged temp switch's for experimentation. I have a near new in perfect thermo cover that I've modified too to replace the photo one which has seen better days. I hate those capilllary tubes that push under the hose to rad or thermo cover joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 16 hours ago, Iain T said: Colin, I'll do more investigating. I thought the in line was supposed to be in the top hose? Iain Bottom hose being longer means the unit is easier to fit - there's not really enough room in that short top hose - but requires a different, or at least adjustable, sensor to allow for the cooler water coming from the rad. I always adjusted mine judging by the temp gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 47 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: requires a different, or at least adjustable, sensor to allow for the cooler water coming from the rad. I always adjusted mine judging by the temp gauge. The Davies Craig controller is fully adjustable and will also control two fans. I had trouble fitting one! As it's a grim day today I'll have another look and fiddle. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 Agree with Colin, set mine to cut out as temperature according to gauge nears normal which shows water leaving the radiator is cool enough but not to cool. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 Using the bottom hose how did you run the cable? I have the controller sitting next to the battery and the cables to the fan and sensor are on the opposite side to the lower hose. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 I ran the cables down nearside with rest of loom then across the round bar behind the front valence with the relay fitted to front off offside engine valence. Fitted a fused dedicated supply from battery through a relay switched by ignition with an override switch and run light. The Revotec device is just the sensor unit to fit in the bottom hose and the relay for the fan so at it's simplest it just needs power and earth. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 3 hours ago, Iain T said: Using the bottom hose how did you run the cable? I have the controller sitting next to the battery and the cables to the fan and sensor are on the opposite side to the lower hose. Iain I just ran the cabling in behind the horn bracket under the radiator. (Herald) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 Just gapped the rockers and took a general look around. I still think if I can get a Y piece to fit into the thermostat housing it would be the simplest solution. Does anyone know the housing thread size? This is my 'garage' .....before the lights go out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 The 13/60 currently has the stock engine driven fan. I am considering fitting a suitable electric fan, or even a pair, so this post is of interest. Question?. Most advertised Thermo; controller "stats" appear to be a Fixed 80C (175/6F). Which is the same (+ or -) as the thermostat opening temperature?. If such (sensor) is in the lower hose, the fan will cut in potentially at a different Temperature?. As the Fully Open Temp; is shown in the Haynes manual as 200-205F. Is it potentially going to over cool?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 2 hours ago, PeteH said: Question?. Most advertised Thermo; controller "stats" appear to be a Fixed 80C (175/6F). Firstly do you need a fan? Are there current heating / cooling problems? Secondly, don't go for a fixed temperature controller, go for a variable system. There's quite a wide choice, the link is to both a digital and a manual controller from a kit car builder website, but there are dozens available. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/cooling-fans#/pageSize=20&viewMode=grid&orderBy=15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 On 14/11/2020 at 16:06, Iain T said: Does anyone know the housing thread size? its one of these ha https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/temp-transmitters just need to convert a GTR108 generic to a smiths number ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 +1 for variable as where you place the sensor will require you to tweek the temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 the thread is 5/8"unf x 18tpi if that helps Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 Pete, I got as far as identifying the GTR108. Do you know the female thread size in the thermostat housing? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 You got there mid post! I'll punt around for a Y piece, the Davies Craig fan sensor is 1/4 npt, I'll need to find out what my temp gauge sensor is but should be doable. Ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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