johny Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 Who's done this and have they got any advice or, even better, photos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 This is the boot of SoS. The battery is in the space vacated by the OE fuel tank, which may not help if you plan a road car, but the right hand wing space is clear to use. The GRP battery box is bolted to the floor. I've added an Anderson socket, screwed to the tank support plate, that makes it easy to jump start or recharge the battery. The battery leads are run along inside the passenger side sill, going via an FIA cut-out on the dash, again, not essential for a road car. Use the biggest you can get to avoid voltage drop from there to the engine. As I run Pi, it makes it easy to run a feed directly to the fuel pump, again to avoid volt drop. Control via a relay in the boot. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 Well. One of our guys at East Berks is in a wheel chair and has a Vitesse. Accelerator on the steering column is easy, but clutch more complicated. He put the battery in the boot and a system of electrics/relays and solenoids in the battery compartment to operate the clutch slave cylinder. It works very well, I did try to get him to do a piece in the Courier. I see John is in before me and described the battery installation, our guy Mark's was the same. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 Thanks, yes I'll be keeping the original tank and will do it to free space up front for a servo. Perhaps it could go next to or behind the driver side rear wheel arch to take up as little room as possible and then Id run the cable up that side of the car (no pipes on that side either) to connect directly to the solenoid so no other mods are necessary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 see servo positions on jeffs post why move the battery ??? we shortened the battery tray moved it closer to the n/s dropped the servo in the gap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 Hmmm I cant face chopping up my Vitesse that much plus it looks like more work that I was thinking of to put the battery in the boot.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 Pete please have you any other shots straight on & from top, I fitted the battery in the boot Drivers side and cable goes over the diff hump then thro floor along the RH chassis backbone outside thro the outrigger holes and over the top of the front outrigger to the solenoid. pics later. But I do like Pete's solution if my PBR Servo would fit, brake pipe fits in the end of the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 hmmm I hadnt thought about those outriggers😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 sorry no more pics and car was sold to get the 2000 so plan view is not available now theres not a lot of work to cut the battery tray to suit the battery and while its off just refit it up against the baulkhead angle side panel just when i got the servo there were no clues about where to fit it so this seemed a solution and it does not clutter the Master cyl platform remember had to trim one of the 3 studs to clear the inner wing on bonnet drop pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 My battery tray is already removed to fit the servo, so that's sorted and the battery could be clamped to the floor of the bulkhead, I have 6 extra fuses mounted inboard of the existing fuse box which require access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 8 minutes ago, johny said: hmmm I hadnt thought about those outriggers😳 Centre ones have the hole for brake and fuel pipes so a cable should fit through; just pad the edges of the metal to prevent chafing and ultimately shorting. Front and rear outriggers should have a gap under the body that the cables can be fed through and will help support it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 What size cable did you use Peter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 Colin my rear outrigger also has a semi circular cut out where welded to the chassis, and the front a hole right thro front and strengthener , but I went over the top of the front outrigger under the floor panel.When I get up and dressed I'll attch photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted February 12, 2021 Report Share Posted February 12, 2021 I used a Length of "redundant" comercial welding cable for an 8Metre run to link batteries at the front and rear of my R-V. Where it had to "pass through" It was further shielded by the use of Plastic "hose pipe"!. The vehicle was a "pusher" configuration, and had two battery sets, one by the Engine under the rear bed, and 4 others under what would have been the "hood" in a front engine config;. The object of so many, served by several Solar panels was to extend "off grid" time, and the use of an Inverter. but the same in principle. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted February 12, 2021 Report Share Posted February 12, 2021 Photo's of the Battery in the Boot Set Up, the battery box is fixed to an aluminum plate bolted thro the floor with different length tube sleeved bolts that ensure the battery is horizontal. My Vitesse doesn't have the normal steel sprung rear seat it was missing when I got the Conv rear tub, I'd had to make a timber frame with foam on then cut and re-stitch the old saloon matador seat covers to fit. Consequently it was easy to make clearance for the cable coming thro the floor. Where the cable comes over the front outrigger it needs some extra fixing and protection, I think I might reroute it behind the High Torque Starter, neater too. The P clips are bolted using Rivnuts in the chassis side. The battery box cover protects the DIY negative isolator connection. Still a work in progress but nearly there, there again I might redo it similar to Pete's old Vitesse I've measured it up & I think it's do-able even with the Aussie PBR Servo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted June 27, 2022 Report Share Posted June 27, 2022 Just reading this old thread as I'm going to be moving my Herald battery to the boot. A few questions What size cable should be used, 110 or 170amp? Should I run the earth to the front as well or to a point on the body/chassis at the rear? Does the battery have to be in a box, can I just reuse the battery bracket that I've removed from the bulkhead? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted June 27, 2022 Report Share Posted June 27, 2022 My feeling is the longer the run the larger the cable. Voltage drop needs to be compensated for. I am planning to run a seperate Earth cable too. My "gut" feeling would be to put the battery in a closed box vented outside the car. Which is how my Camper van "house" batteries are stored. L-A Batteries give off Hydrogen gas periodically, not something you want to risk in a closed (boot) space?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 27, 2022 Report Share Posted June 27, 2022 Most modern LA or Calcium batteries have small plastic vent pipes that go down either end of the battery that can easily be made to vent outside the boot. A lot of modern IC engined cars have batteries in the boot/trunk. PH you've been talking to my daughter who won't charge a cars battery in the car or on the bench with the garage doors shut! So no charging overnight? Frustrates the hell out of me, her garage whilst being under the house roof line isn't draught proof with roller doors at both ends (big air gap at top with a closed roller door) & air bricks ie good circulation, I ask her what about trickle chargers no answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 At the VERY least the top of the battery should be covered, wouldn`t be the first time that some metal object chucked in the boot has managed to bridge the terminals with disasterous outcome!. The majority ones in the boot are (usually) in covered vented wells too?. Not too many years ago, a fire claimed the lives of a couple, believed started by an overcharging battery under the passenger seat of a camper van. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 Fitted servo over master cylinders, extra holes not needed and used 16mm banjo fittings for vacuum from the smiths valve tapping. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 Heres a rather basic battery-in-boot installation on eBay at the moment... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 If this is to make room for a servo, I have seen many servos fitted without doing this. If it is to transfer weight to the rear, more understandable but, you really need it closer to the axle or tail wagging will not improve. I do this to drive power tools with an inverter on a board that I can lift in & out. Do these cars really need a servo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 Johnny,I fitted my Girling servo into the existing gap next to the battery. I'm not keen on restricting access to the master cylinders, by mounting it over them. It just fits, but I think a Lockhead type would need the battery tray altering like Pete did. Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 On cars where i have relocated the battery to the rear I also run the neutral/earth cable from the battery up to the engine preferable a starter motor bolt. Then to the bulkhead earthing point. I would not rely on the chassis/body as a return path, they might be steel but many years of corrosion and the fact these cars are bolted together bits doesnt help. I use welder cable from my electrical wholesaler. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 Please use a vent tube and a battery that has that facility. Hydrogen and Oxygen are given off in the most explosive ratio from a battery gassing. You may decide to test something across the terminals, accidently drop a tool, or an electrical fault could occur, and look where the fuel tank is! All of my 'Moderns' have had a vent tube with rear mounted batteries. This was not necessary under the bonnet due to forced ventilation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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