new fuel coming soon.

[dave49]

hi all.ive been hearing about the new petrol coming in and how it wont be suitable for classic cars causing possible damage to fuel pipes and engine. does anyone have any views on this like will there be additives available or will it be costly alterations.ive got a 69 13/60 herald.thanks all dave 49.

[Clive]

Don't fret.

Get some genuine ethanol resistant hoses from a propers source (NOT from AFS on ebay or indeed any other ebay seller) The club shop, demon tweaks, Moss etc ll sell suitable stuff.

In fact that really ought to have been done, if in doubt act now.

Then the only thing you might need is a slight adjustment to the carb mixture and possibly timing. We are lucky that we can adjust this stuff, the problem is if you can't.

Meanwhile, premium fuels are staying e5 (but you still need R9+ hoses) so that is the simple solution. 

[Paul H]

The Club Shop sells Gates Barricade hose and that’s the one to upgrade to 

Paul 

[Pete Lewis]

ethanol of varying amounts has been aound for a good time , 97+ has less and often no ethanol

and like the myths of unleaded and the milenium clock we dont have any carbs or engines disolving 

the main problem is  the sale of low grade nasty fuel hose , 

+1 for gates barricade form club shop and many others 

yoour 13/60 would be deisgned to run on 100+ 5* fuel  never 95 2*

thats for side vavles and motor mowers of  the day 

yes modern fuels have changed a bit , but head have so much lead memory unless you cut the valve seats they will 

run for many many 1000 of miles without myth or mishap 

use a higher grade fuel and reduce the ethanol content 

if you find any actual mechanical failures you will probable find addatives to part with your money cause more than they solve 

its fact  cars dont disapear into the clouds overnight due to fueling myths 

Pete

[dave49]

thanks guys.ill look at the shop for the hose you are on about.is it just the rubber parts i need to replace or everything.cheers

[Chris A]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

yoour 13/60 would be deisgned to run on 100+ 5* fuel  never 95 2*

My copy of the owners handbook says :

[dave49]

thank you.not had the herald long so not sure about it.cheers

[Pete Lewis]

just keep an eye on your fuel hoses for degrading  dont rush to change everything get to know your car before doing too much removals .

and you may read on here about rubber slivers     these little sods get shaved off the hose when inserting the metal pipes and can jam up the carb float needle valve    devious little sods  

if you do change hoses dont forget there is short one in the boot on top of the tank outlet/reserve lever 

often ignored and can go loose then you suck air not petrol .

Pete

[dave49]

thanks for the info mate.very much appreciated.

[PeteH]

The Information about the use of good quality Resitant hose is necessary. I have had some issues already with E5 fuel, but that is confined to equipment which is infrequently used. The Maker/Supliers advice was to ensure the use of "fresh" fuel. And not to store the device with old/stale fuel in the tank. So far that advice has proved sound and I have had few issues since adopting the advice.

Pete

[dave49]

thanks pete.interesting.

[Pete Lewis]

stale fuel does cause concerns  ive helped  a GT6 off the road for 30 years and the carb needles had to be levered out of the jets truely awful

on the other hand  this month went to a Spitfire mk2 off road for 3+ years and it started on the button 

there a lot of variation in  old fuel experiences 

the answer is   USE IT   Ha 

Pete

 

 

[PeteH]

I agree with Pete, using it would be the best option, lack of use was why my Beemer (bike) got sold on. My issues have as yet only been confined to "kit" that has got infrequent use in recent times. (Generator, Chain saw, and a Petrol Strimmer), If in doubt the fuel gets (not the Fuel/Oil mix) drained and bunged in the "modern",  which then gets topped up. So far no (more) issues.

I think I posted elsewhere, but I was told that the Ethanol is only added as the tanker is being filled, to avoid possible deterioration of the fuel in the refinery storage tanks.?

I do wonder though just how long we will be able to get 97+RON fuel without E10?. Are "additives" the answer?. Are there any?. Should we be doing the research Now?

Pete

[johny]

yes I think we have to distinguish between fuel residue and stale fuel. The first is the result of extreme fuel concentration due to evaporation and can cause real problems while the second is a supposed deterioration of a large quantity of fuel sitting in its liquid state typically in the fuel tank.

I havent experienced this last issue and am sceptical that I will bearing in mind the origins and very basic nature of my engine...  

[68vitesse]

Run my Vitesse year round on super unleaded and keep a spare can in the boot, also use the petrol in the can for my thirty year old lawn mower, never had a problem starting it after winter layup.

Regards

Paul

[Pete Lewis]

think is all down to the same experiences  that must haves make it faster  

Pete

[Chris A]

At the end of the season I just leave what is in the tank, I do try and start the car and go for a run when possible over winter, and no problems, mind you I do use SP98 which is only 5%

[Badwolf]

Posting this question on this thread as it appears to be vaguely appropriate.

If E10 fuel is less efficient than E5 then will all the on-board trip computers that show how far you can expect to travel between fill-ups and how far you still have available to travel on the available fuel, efficiency etc., have to be reset for E10... and if so, will that be a standard feature of the next service?

[NonMember]

If the trip computer on my modern was accurate enough to need re-calibrating for fuel I'd be shocked. Besides, I think it bases the remaining mileage on the economy figures it's calculated so far, so it's self-calibrating in that respect.

[Chris A]

I would think the system simply compares amount of fuel used for distance covered, so if you use more E10 per mile it is no problem for the system. Just as in the same way if your right foot is a bit heavier than usual it comes.

I have read that consumption increases a little, a couple of % l think

[Pete Lewis]

all our cars were designed to run on 100ron fuel   so if you all use 97+ it remains at 5%  and you get close to factory timing settings and close to design performance

E10 will absorb more water this can separate if left in storage and the water sinks below the remaining fuel depending on where your tank suction pipe is you may have troubles 

so dont use    95 mower fuel in your triumph and things will look brighter and you will sleep at night 

till they add more E  to the higher grade fuel 

Pete

[Badwolf]

But....what about the damage to my lawn mower???

[Chris A]

4 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

But....what about the damage to my lawn mower???

It is rust worm that is getting at mine, it runs fine on either E5 or E10

[Nick Jones]

On 02/09/2021 at 21:37, Badwolf said:

But....what about the damage to my lawn mower???

Mine (elderly sidevalve Honda) ran on E85 for two seasons using up the results of a mis-fuel. It was a bit of a bugger to start from cold (sniff of carb cleaner saved my arm) but other than that, you couldn’t really tell. It did chew through it quicker than standard petrol.

Long term effects? Well, we are probably 12 years on from that now, but apart from a new plug and a couple of oil changes it just clatters and smokes as it always has….

Nick

[68vitesse]

On 02/09/2021 at 21:37, Badwolf said:

But....what about the damage to my lawn mower???

My elderly mountfield four stroke funs fine on super unleaded, couldn't see the point in having two cans of different petrol.

I like to keep a spare can in the Vitesse.

Regards

Paul