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Triumph tool kit?


avivalasvegas

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After having a sticky SU carb float cause a fuel leak, my other half's death stares made me realize that I may be woefully unprepared for future roadside repair. Did Triumph ever supply a tool kit for the 60's era cars? Cost aside, I may like to procure one to keep the car original. 

Any other "must haves" to ensure road survival? 

Thanks in advance! 

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Hi, for the GT6 Mk3 there is a page in the ST Part List that covers the tool kit that comes with the car, not sure about earlier cars.  Mine (a late MKIII) has most of it in a large red thick plastic "bag" that I think is original.

As to what you need to carry with you everyone will have their own ideas.  I carry a reasonable set of spanners, screwdrivers, pliers etc.  Cable ties, insulating tape and duct tape also useful.  A full set of bulbs and ignition spares including points and condensor in case the electronic ignition module fails, various lengths and sizes of wire and some crimp spade/ bullet connectors.  You can crimp these with pliers as a get you home bodge but they will need to be replaced.  Eseentially I fill the well in the spare wheel with tools and bits and then decide that's enough.

Sod's law dictates that no matter how many spares and tools you carry somthing will fail that you are not prepared for or cannot fix!  At least you can show she who must be obeyed that you tried.

Chris

GT6 Mk3 Tool Kit.jpg

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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

There's a thread knocking about here somewhere, I can't find it at present, about what spares members carry in their boots.

There was also a full Triumph tool kit for sale online recently, not cheap though, and this being one of 'those' mornings I can't find it again either...

This isn't the one that Colin refers to but does tie in to your question.

For once /again I'm in the same boat as Colin I know there is a thread as I used it as a guide to my spares pack.

Seek and ye shall find!

https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/7693-what-spares-do-you-carry/#comment-105822

 

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I have the original kit, scissor jack and winder and the red plastic bag with assorted spanners.  All outdated and some of it dangerous. The long pointy thing, 129833 is, I think, to help change a tyre on a wheel? :lol:  Nice to have it all on a shelf and remember what we had to put up with back then.

This sort of scissor jack is dangerous, you only need to see it topple over once whilst previously looking quite stable, to decide NEVER AGAIN!  I have a good spare and take my trolley jack with me on long journeys. A puncture on a local journey and I summon a son-in-law to bring the trolley jack.  

 In the car I carry screwdrivers, pliers, socket set and a Swiss Army pen knife.

But, I'm with PeterH, mobile phone and recovery number!

Doug

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3 hours ago, Chris A said:

To remove hub caps

I helped a friend out with some Riley shuffling yesterday. One of the old boys in the team - a Riley enthusiast and owner of some pre-war Austins - was at pains to point out that the thing that tool removes is actually the "nave plate" - the hub cap is behind it, at least on the front.

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Back in the day 'hubcaps' or 'nave plates' were usually well-embellished to set a car off, and plain ones were called 'poverty plates' as it was obvious the owner couldn't afford anything better...

According to Wikipedia:

"A typical ship's wheel is composed of eight cylindrical wooden spokes (though sometimes as few as six or as many as ten) shaped like balusters and all joined at a central wooden hub or nave (sometimes covered with a brass nave plate) which housed the axle. The square hole at the centre of the hub through which the axle ran is called the drive square and was often lined with a brass plate (and therefore called a brass boss, though this term was used more often to refer to a brass hub and nave plate) which was frequently etched with the name of the wheel's manufacturer. The outer rim is composed of sections each made up of stacks of three felloes, the facing felloe, the middle felloe, and the after felloe. Because each group of three felloes at one time made up a quarter of the distance around the rim, the entire outer wooden wheel was sometimes called the quadrant. Each spoke ran through the middle felloe creating a series of handles beyond the wheel's rim. One of these handles/ spokes was frequently provided with extra grooves at its tip which could be felt by a helmsman steering in the dark and used by him to determine the exact position of the rudder—this was the king spoke and when it pointed straight upward the rudder was believed to be dead straight to the hull. The completed ship's wheel and associated axle and pedestal(s) might even be taller than the person using it. The wood used in construction of this type of wheel was most often either teak or mahogany, both of which are very durable tropical hardwoods capable of surviving the effects of salt water spray and regular use without significant decomposition."

So I suppose early car wheels resembled ship's wheels and thus the centre part is called - in Britain only, mind - the nave plate.

In a church the long aisle with the spokes of the roof overhead resembled the hull of a ship, so was called the nave, from the Latin 'Navis' meaning ship.

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5 hours ago, Chris A said:

To remove hub caps

The long pointy thing was in my Vit Mk2 original tool kit and is for removing Rostyle wheel trims. IIRC,you put the hooked end through one of the holes in the trim - near the hub centre and 'twist' it. Hopefully the trim pops off. 

Gav

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22 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Back in the day 'hubcaps' or 'nave plates' were usually well-embellished to set a car off, and plain ones were called 'poverty plates' as it was obvious the owner couldn't afford anything better...

According to Wikipedia:

"A typical ship's wheel is composed of eight cylindrical wooden spokes (though sometimes as few as six or as many as ten) shaped like balusters and all joined at a central wooden hub or nave (sometimes covered with a brass nave plate) which housed the axle. The square hole at the centre of the hub through which the axle ran is called the drive square and was often lined with a brass plate (and therefore called a brass boss, though this term was used more often to refer to a brass hub and nave plate) which was frequently etched with the name of the wheel's manufacturer. The outer rim is composed of sections each made up of stacks of three felloes, the facing felloe, the middle felloe, and the after felloe. Because each group of three felloes at one time made up a quarter of the distance around the rim, the entire outer wooden wheel was sometimes called the quadrant. Each spoke ran through the middle felloe creating a series of handles beyond the wheel's rim. One of these handles/ spokes was frequently provided with extra grooves at its tip which could be felt by a helmsman steering in the dark and used by him to determine the exact position of the rudder—this was the king spoke and when it pointed straight upward the rudder was believed to be dead straight to the hull. The completed ship's wheel and associated axle and pedestal(s) might even be taller than the person using it. The wood used in construction of this type of wheel was most often either teak or mahogany, both of which are very durable tropical hardwoods capable of surviving the effects of salt water spray and regular use without significant decomposition."

So I suppose early car wheels resembled ship's wheels and thus the centre part is called - in Britain only, mind - the nave plate.

In a church the long aisle with the spokes of the roof overhead resembled the hull of a ship, so was called the nave, from the Latin 'Navis' meaning ship.

Sorry Colin, nodded off can you explain it again, with less words. 

Doug

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