Anglefire

It does if you hit something. ?

I don't see an issue with a roll pin as long as the wall thickness is suitable and the material is suitable for the job - a circle is immensely strong if supported on all sides - and these should be fine - the shear load is between the shaft and yoke - and the gaps, given they have been shrunk on, will be small so still strong. Looks good to me.

I do think the subs are fair and reasonable - any more and the risk is a drop in members - any less and no more would join I suspect. The club premises and shop is excellent - it does perhaps need to focus slightly more on quality and unusual rather than cost - which is does in many areas - perhaps leave the usual stuff to the other sellers - though I do accept that they could mean slow moving items - which is not at all ideal so the balance does need to be struck!

When I filled my Spitfire 1500 after I stuck a "new" engine in it, I put the front on ramps to get the heater lower than the rad - and it seemed to work ok at getting the air all out. And some squeezing of the pipes......

Personally I think rigid is better for the fact that it is self supporting over a longer distance - I don't know the spec, but if you assume you need a clip every foot or 18", hose will surely need one every 6"? And it should last longer than hose? But other than that I can't think of a technical reason - it will probably have a higher resistance to flow than solid pipe for a given size just because of its surface. Is that significant? Who knows - given others have used it successfully, I assume not. Or does it only become an issue in the extreme?

The youngest is only 17 and has no plans to get married - she does want to leave home when she goes to Uni - which won't solve any cash problems for a while at least! The eldest is still at home as she is at Uni in Birmingham. Still costs us, but not so much!

Well, I have now got my daughter a Peugeot 107 - and have insured her on it whilst she is still learning for £110 for 2months fully comp - which as soon as she passes ceases to be valid. Its fully comp as you would expect theses days, the only restriction is that she can't drive between midnight and 6am. Not an issue! A friend uses "Insure the Box" which is essentially the one Tesco broker but is cheaper - so I'll look at that when she passes, hopefully in the not too distant future.

There are ways of safely measuring current (requires a shunt resistor of known value and the actually a voltmeter calibrated in Amps) But as Pete says, ammeters are largely redundant.

Fuel gauge you can live with once you know what full is, as long as the needle reads empty when empty!

My 1500 needed no modifications and cleared the standard filters as well as the K&N's now fitted. The only "issue" I had is that the front quarter valence where the indicators are, are fibre glass - so needed to make sure the separate earth was attached.

Ah, now I see the full diagram, it does indeed make a difference! B supply, I to instruments ?

Connecting the supply to A or B doesn't matter - its just a bimetalic strip - when its cold A is connected to B and that causes a current flow which heats the strip - gets hot enough and the contact opens, the current stops so it cools down. The electric doesn't care which way it goes!

I’m pretty sure my dad had this book. No idea where it is now. But if it’s worth £108 I need to find it ????

This sounds to that the existing solenoid is not working properly - or as said the column switch is knackered. One way to test is to use a jump lead from the battery to the starters main terminal - just be away that the jump lead end will be "hot" when connected to the battery - so might be better to connect to the starter first and then touch the +ve battery terminal - depends if there is a risk of the starter end touching to earth at anytime. If that works the fault lies further back in either the existing solenoid or the feed to it. Simply connect a +ve wire to the switched side of the solenoid and it should energise the solenoid, which in turn will put power onto the starter. If that doesn't work its either the starter (Not likely) or the ignition switch or the solenoid. You then need to trace it back to confirm you have power at the right point on the switch. Its a lot easier than it sounds - BTW one of the screwdriver type testers may not work on 12v dc - a simple bulb attached to a couple of wires would be better - or a simple £5 multimeter from where ever. The other way to wire up these starters, is to remove the link from the +ve post the the lucar connector - put a permanent feed to the +ve post and use the existing solenoid as a relay and apply power to the lucar connector to start the car - ie make it a traditional pre-engaged starter - depends if your solenoid is just a bit dodgy and simply can't take the starting load through it or is bust. Though I do think there is an auxiliary contact on it too which you could use to connect to the starter. As said electrics in these cars is in reality very very simple.

I would really love to do this sort of thing. But don’t see it happening anytime soon:(. Very envious.

Don't forget the guinea And the Yanks have a "penny" which I think is a cent? I use 'C for temperatures (centigrade - don't hold with the new fangled celsius) but 'F when its really hot - 90'f sounds much better than 32'C - but 0'C sound much colder than 32'F

I was being a bit flippant as I don't like the cm as a unit of measure - thou, mm, inches, feet and yards/meters are my prefered units ? Stems from my Dad who was a teacher of woodwork/metalwork/TD and always thought cm a waste of time.

Oh and if he is above 135cm (what ever that is in proper money) he doesn't need a booster or car seat.

Daft question, but when he sits in the seat like an adult, where does he sit in relation to the seat belt and surroundings then? If he is too high with a booster, he doesn't sound small? The reason, as I understand it, is the booster is to get the seat belt to sit in the right place across the chest. If it sits correctly without is there an issue (saving it being technically illegal?)

Hum, interesting. Unless it was the earlier ones? It doesn't look as good (IMHO) as a plate on the grill. Spoils the lines!

Boils my P*** does this sort of thing. ?

Hopefully I can get to this one again - enjoyed "2" - but it looks like the day before could be an edinburgh uni visit.......

Club shop ones work a treat - just make sure the mounting bolts holding the bonnet on are tight enough - as when closed, the strut is compressed so trying to push the bonnet towards the windscreen.

Technically they aren't unless there is no other place for them - hence E types get away with it. But plod seem uninterested in anything these days unless it clears up a crime - they don't want anymore! The number of illegal plates you see these days is unreal and nothing ever seems to be done about it!

To be fair Doug, I too would prefer Adelaide, but beggars can’t be choosers ?