Gully

The shims are normal. Gully

I positioned the speakers in my GT6 immediately behind the seats as shown in the photo below. The spacers were to give sufficient depth to the structure behind the panel without the need for a full speaker box. Gully

This is the original hook in my early Mk 3. My static belts don't fit on them as they have a different shape to the metal fastener. Gully

My GT6 has the mix of separate and claw earths for the rear lights. After everything was disassembled for painting last year and then reassembled, I had the joy of chasing a decent earth for the nearside rear lights - ironically, it was the non-claw earth side that was the pain, but a crinkle washer on the earth connection to penetrate the paint (internally) was sufficient to get everything working in harmony again. Gully

1967 - I wasn't born! Not even conceived... 😀 That said, June 1967 was important in my life - my parents got married that month! Glad you've finally got your dream TR - looks great. Gully

I found the main cowl made a difference, but not so much the valances. However, the biggest difference to cooling came from lowering the numberplate so it didn't block the airflow. Gully

Just happens to be the smallest in my Halfords imperial set of allen keys! Gully

1/16 inch. Gully

Mimosa is not common - every Mimosa car is a slightly different colour as it fades by the day and each Mimosa spray can / touch-up stick is also different, which is why many of our cars are 50 Shades of Mimosa! 🤣 Gully

I think every engine has its vagaries! Mine likes full choke to initially fire in all weathers (which it does pretty much immediately), but as soon as it fires I reduce the choke to a third, then reduce accordingly as the engine warms and will tick over without the slightly elevated RPM. The workshop manual specifies one sixteenth of an inch separation between the fast idle screw and cam. Gully

No gritting of the roads in Herts over the past few days, despite the air frosts. https://www.hertfordshire.gov.uk/services/highways-roads-and-pavements/roadworks-and-road-closures/severe-weather/gritting-the-road/gritting-routes.aspx I took the GT6 for a quick run around the local estate roads on Saturday morning to warm the oil before completing an oil change. Then a slightly longer run around lunchtime to the supermarket for fuel and to check for leaks and seeps. Gully

Because the PR team was focused on Triumph's marketing claim that all their cars had independent suspension... There's a story in one of the Triumph history books of a live axle Spitfire being built to address the tuck under - it needed some small chassis changes and raided the TR4 parts bin, but was quickly crushed as it handled fantastically well, but was 'off message' in PR terms... Gully

I got caught out by that from a local tyre centre - didn't think to check the date codes when the Hankooks were fitted and only realised some months later they would have been 4 years old when they were new to me! Gully

Which is an issue that afflicts many modern vehicles - head restraints that push your head forwards uncomfortably. I had an issue with my modern car and went online looking for a solution and there are hundreds of threads on various forums with people replacing head restraints, removing them, reversing them, bending their supporting legs... Apparently, the manufacturers' thinking is that if you are already in contact with the head restraint, rear impact whiplash will be reduced. Seems to have been a growing problem from 2017 onwards. Gully

Welcome - sounds like a great restoration diary is in the offing. I'm also sure the International Liaison people from the TSSC would love to make contact and run something in The Courier in due course. Gully

Surely neither the bolt nor the inner metal sleeve should be moving when tight? So even if the sleeve is a slightly rattling fit on the bolt when all is loose, when all is nipped up, laden or unladen the only movement should be between the bush and the clamped sleeve? Gully

Aren't we all Triumph fans?! Sorry, I'll get back to my work spreadsheet... Gully

Looks like it - with an HE suffix. Gully

I went out in the GT6 last Saturday to give it a good run. The roads were dry and salt washed off by the torrential rain a couple of days earlier. The first few attempted flakes of snow were falling as I got back, arriving home about 15 min before the gritters were due out (Herts have a great online service that tells you when they are gritting, which routes and 8g or 15g deposit). Gave the wheel arches a wipe out afterwards, but they were clean and dry anyway. Gully

I fitted an Exide 027TE (their code EA640) to my GT6 6 years ago (almost to the day - just looked at the receipt). It's 64Ah and they are around £50 (inc. VAT) + delivery. The small red wire in the photo is from my trickle charger connector, but I've not used it since I changed the battery... Gully

Me too - no hashtag! Gully

Hi Conor, Worth a quick check - I had a tapping noise coming from this area and it was the pushrod hitting the cam follower as the push rod socket was not separating from the ball on the valve clearance adjuster. Gully

That's interesting. The Triumph parts books (and Canley excerpts) show that small silencer as a Mk3 fitment, but not present on the Mk2 standard exhaust. On my Mk3 I have the standard cast iron manifold connected to a Mk2 semi sports system which is straight through to the back box. I've never found it too loud and it has a nice resonance around 3000 rpm! 😀 Gully

Sounds like you've talked yourself full circle to reverting to the original 3/8 studs Triumph designed the car to have in the first instance and that have been adequate for the past 50 years! The main trigger for people changing tends to be the fitting of alloy wheels, which in many cases results in the original studs being too short for the new nuts; couple that with wider tyres and longer 7/16 or 12mm studs make sense. If you're set on original steels and centre-retaining nuts... Gully

Simple set square / plumb bob will work fine. Start off with the same number of shims at each of the 4 wishbone connection points (2 or 3). Let is settle for a bit (sounds like a fresh build), then re-check after a few miles. If you find the steering isn't centring properly when driving, then you can tweak the castor by removing or adding shims to either front or rear wishbone mountings. Gully